mchan68

Yes.

Bruce, I remembered helping a local shop to diagnose one of these a while back. I don't remember the exact cylinder number, But it did set a code for an injector circuit high on the offending cylinder. Simply unplugging the offending injector managed to get the truck started as well as replacing the injector of course.

I had one similar to that, that was towed in after a shop installed an aftermarket trailer brake controller. It turned out that they had cut the connector off that was connected to nothing, dead-ending the main HS CAN+ and HS CAN- circuits to the BCM. What I find stupid is how a very important circuit goes through that connector instead of being contained in the main instrument panel harness.

Funny you should ask. As it stands right now, I have replaced the main underhood harness as well as the transmission harness, only to be not much further ahead, other than the fact that I managed to bring the cluster back to life to get the actual mileage. I have since started an extensive Hotline contact on this issue which has now escalated to having an FSE involved. He was just actually present yesterday, only to repeat the tests I had already done. The higher ups are now instructing me to install a new PCM by using manual vehicle data entry which I'm not optimistic that it's going to get us any further ahead.

Better yet, does anybody know the International part number for a FICM?

When it comes time to re-install the turbos, pay particular attention to the rubber low pressure turbo drain so that you don't nick it or damage it during the install or you will have one messy oil leak the moment you start it back up. Don't ask me how I know!!!

We got yet two more new service advisors, and I got an apprentice working with/for me now. As far as licensed techs, we don't have any room for another.

Brad, that looks almost like the same connector that contains the circuits to the reverse lights and B+ to the HFCM.

So, what is the job Moe?

2012 Mustang GT with a spun cylinder #2 rod bearing in my car bay. A 2011 F-450 just came in on the hook as a no-crank no-start, and no instrument cluster power up.

At this point it doesn't matter. The truck is a POS. Speaking of odometers, I also noticed a spare used instrument cluster sitting on the passenger floorboard. Perhaps someone else has already had a go at this?

Technician A says BLAH BLAH BLAH. Technician B says BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH. Which technician is correct? A) Technician A Technician B C) Both Technician A and B D) Neither Technician

Okay, at what point in a vehicle's lifespan is it time to call it quits? At what point are we at the dealership level better off telling the customer to "go see the people in the front door" as opposed to trying to make a quick buck off them to prolong the life of their vehicle that little six months (if even that) longer? Today, a truck came in on the hook at our shop. A 1997 F250 7.3L with 389,000 kms. on the clock. The vehicle concern is "loss of brakes" and "fuel gauge doesn't read". As I was walking into the front of service to see the service advisor regarding another matter, I overheard this elderly woman asking someone to see "Michael Ching chang chong .....". That's when I looked up and saw that she had read my name tag and asked if I would be looking after her truck. I replied politely, "What truck?" Anyhow, after the truck was dropped off, I took a quick glance at it and noticed the brake line rusted through at the junction to the left front brake caliper flex hose. I also noticed the rest of the truck was completely rotted underneath. It looked as though someone had went to town with rubber hoses and worm clamps galore on some fuel lines and even brake lines going to the rear of the truck. There was also a spaghetti or wiring hanging loose along the frame. It didn't look like any of the bleeder screws on any of the calipers or wheel cylinders could be loosened without snapping off due to rust. The condition of the body was to the point that there is no way in hell I would put my signature on it to pass a safety inspection. Long story short, there was no way in hell I would be willing to lay a hand on this truck. I guess Mr. Michael Ching chang chong is not going to be fixing your truck lady!!! Here's the kicker. I got our general manager and other more experienced service advisor involved in the conversation with the customer regarding what to do with the truck and they are adamant about getting the truck repaired because they "need to get five more years out of it". I looked at the service advisor and laughed, "that truck will be lucky to make it five more months let alone five years. That's if the MTO guys don't happen to see it and pull the plates off of it, once they pull it over to inspect".

Every Ford FQR long block I have done to date so far, has come with oil in it, up to and including the one I did on a 2008 Focus last week. However, knowing this also doesn't stop me from checking the oil level to verify that there is oil in the engine BEFORE initial engine startup. I think it would be a bigger fuck up to start an engine up without oil in it, than starting it up with too much oil. I also check flexplate/flywheel bolt torque too (I had one once that came in with the flexplate bolts finger tight, years ago).

The last 6.0L I had apart pending ESP approval for the repair, they sent an inspector out with a camera to take pictures of the head gaskets, even though it was pretty obvious they had failed.

...... and possibly even a cat on the bank that had the leaking fuel injector too. As far as pistons kissing valves, these engines usually will still run if one of the cams are off by as much as a tooth and a half (but will instantly throw the Check Engine light on the moment it's fired up), but any more than THAT .....

Hotline told me to ohm out pins 6 and 14 of the DLC to take a reading. If 60 ohms, all modules are online. If 120 ohms, there is a module (or modules) offline. They also advised me to ohm out pins 16 and 17 on the BCM where C2280F connects. If 120 ohms was retrieved, the BCM would be in need of replacement (according to them anyways). Coincidentally, there was another tech in the shop in the process of replacing an evaporator on another Super Duty truck with the dash and heater box out, so I borrowed the BCM off of it and ohmed out the same two pins. Sure enough, I got the same 120 ohm reading so I called BS on their advice and dug deeper. What threw me off was having BOTH the HS-CAN circuits open. It never dawned on me that it would dead end at the TBC connector. I was almost ready to gut the dash to chase the opens. Oh well, live and learn.

Just an update to this. It turned out that the tech that did the aftermarket trailer brake controller install, snipped the connector off that is supposed to connect to the factory tralier brake controller on vehicles so equipped. I guess this one just plugs into an empty spot behind the coin holder on these applications without the factory controller option. It turned out that he had cut the main HS-CAN + and HS-CAN - circuits and left them dead-end, creating an open between the BCM and data link connector. I find it hard to believe that that circuit would end at a trailer brake connector instead of just being one piece with the main instrument panel harness. Oh well, I'm glad to get this one out of my hair.

I have seen my share of oil cooler covers that had visible slight cracks on the undersides. These covers are made of monkey metal so care needs to be taken not to be too aggressive when pressing the old coolers out of the covers.

ONE such truck I had a while back comes to mind when reading this. I had what I recall was an early '04 truck (with an '03 engine in it) that would randomly stall out while driving and fail to restart. What was happening while I was monitoring PIDs was it would lose FICM_SYNC out of the blue while driving it, with no rhyme or reason as to what caused it. Like yours, I was getting about 48.5 volts under all conditions, no P02XX injector circuit or P0611 DTCs. What it was getting though, was U0105 (I think???) code though. After checking, and re-checking engine wiring, I swapped in my tester FICM to go for a road test. Sure enough, after the stalling stopped, I slam dunked in a new FICM and it fixed it.

Ditto for me too please. michael_chan_1228@yahoo.ca

Got one in on the hook yesterday, that came in from another shop that just did a DOT inspection and an aftermarket trailer brake control install that wouldn't start after they did the work. Mileage is unknown due to a dead IC. The IC does not respond to ignition key inputs. Funny this is, I was able to retrieve DTCs P068A, U0073, U0100 and U0140. There is B+ on both sides of BCM fuse #28. Not sure where else to go with this. According to the tech that did the work mentioned above, he did disconnect the batteries when he did welding on the frame (this vehicle is a dump body), as well as the trailer brake install. Ran a network test, and all modules PASS expect for the ACM and BCM. Just curious if anyone else has ran into something similar? To me, it stands to reason that if the truck drove into the shop, and wouldn't start after they did the work, SOMETHING they did must've pissed off the BCM from what I'm seeing so far.

I have a customer whom just traded in his 2008 F-250 6.4L for a manager's demo 2012 F-150 3.5L Ecoboost 4x4 truck and wants me to install an Auburn locking diff. This truck is a crew cab loaded with all the bells and whistles type truck but no locking diff. It is a 9.75" open rear end with a 3.31 ratio. Just curious if you guys have any input on this. I know from personal experience if a vehicle is loaded up, but not equipped with a locking diff, there must be a good reason for it (ie traction control). Have any of you guys performed such a swap? What were your experiences with it?

Really? Do you have a part number? I wasn't even aware that such a kit existed.