mchan68

I'm with Matt and Keith. For the amount of work/time required to rip the cab off, it's not worth the effort/time killing my back trying work in such a tight, confined, not to mention high up space for a repair of this magnitude.

My "m-chan68 crystal ball" is calling either a bad cylinder head #3 (be it valve(s) sticking in the guide(s), bad folower(s) or cam lobe(s), etc.) or bottom end issue with cylinders #6 and #8. A very easy way to rule out valve timing, would be the answer to the question "does it set a HARD P0340 fault?" If the answer is NO, then valve timing is NOT the issue. Another way to rule it out, is to see if you can view the power balance graph. If I'm not mistaken, a pop-up screen will appear, indicating CMP and CKP are out of SYNC if valve timing is out. In a nutshell, my vote is on a base engine concern.

Aaron, how the hell have you been buddy?!!!!

I have "thrown" way more than my share of engine harnesses at these trucks with the very symptom you describe, so far with a 100% success of repair rate. Of course, this is not before checking the simple things first, like a rusted out CMP sensor flange the way you describe FIRST.

Well, good news travels fast doesn't it? Apparently Joe Perri was ordered by his doctor to be off work due to dangerously elevated blood pressures. Any surprise in that? I believe I mentioned a while back that this place has become quite the revolving door of front line staff lately.

Last one I did, I changed all 32 valve springs as per owner's request, after having three broken, and another two break shortly after. This was years ago so I forgot what I charged. I agree, the only way to do it is to drop the entire drivetrain.

If I were the one being "cautioned" as a result of the above fact highlighted in bold red, I'd be finding out who this "somebody" is, and getting his ass fired. HE is the one in the wrong, in my opinion.

17mm Snap-On crow's foot on the one I just replaced.

"Somebody" on INFORD? Wow. What a joke. So someone ratted you out to the jokers at TTC eh? Me personally, I wouldn't consider it a loss at all, if they stopped showing up. These 6.4s are hard enough to wrench on as it is STOCK, let alone THAT kind of garbage. My personal opinion would be that they should be turned away at any and all doorsteps. Let TTC give Ford the gears about this hassle. If anyone at Ford calls, they need to know up front that we need to get PAID. NO PAY, NO FIXY, that's been my motto. Tell those guys at Ford in the white shirts to come down and get THEIR hands dirty working on these things themselves.

Oh really? And how's that, and by whom? What are they going to do, fire you? You know how few guys there are "out there" that will want to work on these things. I vaguely recall your post on inford about how even the TTC guys have subtly hinted at taking an early retirement before working on them. My answer would be WTF, I'm not allowed to have an opinion? It's not as if vocalizing an opinion is costing them $$$, which is really all they care about isn't it?

Is that the one I told our GM to turn away because we physically couldn't get it into our shop?

Two 6.7s in on the hook. One that has been gassed up and ran (CHA-CHING!!!!), and one for a P1291 due to cylinder #7 injector return signal shorted to ground, taking out cylinders #1, #4 and #6 with it. An '07 F-150 Harley 5.4L for cam phasers and left/front wheel bearing. An '07 6.0L F-250 Outlaw for head gaskets WARRANTY. Yeah. Hey Jeff, better you than me on the TTC buses .

I have more than my share of used 6.0L engine harnesses from various E and F Series trucks sitting in my garage that I need to find space for.

.... or an EGR valve stuck open, or a 6.0L that's been gassed up, or ........

I would open and close a hood for a quick visual for 0.5.

Our dealership charges 1 hour for a "diag", which to me translates to, connect IDS and check for DTCs. Anything that is over and above that is extra, at my discretion of course.

Now how in the fuck would you guys know this, or not know this? I don't look at dicks (they're for chicks). I look at BOOBIES, preferably big ones.

That's for the whole harness.

Well, the part number is 9C3Z-15525-SA if it's equipped with manual locking hubs and manual transfer case, 9C3Z-15525-TA if it's equipped with ESOF, and 9C3Z-15525-UA if it's a 2WD. I just priced them all out. It's not that bad of a price believe it or not.

You know, up until I read this post, I was toying with the idea of possibly recommending the install of one of these BPD EGR coolers. Now my question is, WHO is paying for this repair? The customer or the source that sold him the aftermarket EGR cooler?

Same here.

Keith, you can always invite good ol' Rex from autotrend.us. On second thought, ........ he's likely too busy with them $12,000 repairs to these trucks so I'm sure he doesn't NEED any help.

If the cam is damaged, you might as well quote a short block because it's ENGINE OUT and CRANKSHAFT OUT to replace the cam.

Just a month ago, a co-worker asked if I wanted to do an EGR cooler for his buddy. I told him he needed to replace BOTH coolers, in order for the repair to be effective. Apparently, he thought I was trying to rip him off, so went to another guy to have just the EGR cooler replaced. Since then, this guy went on a trip to New Jersey and back, only to have the EGR cooler pop AGAIN. But hey, WTF would I know right?