mchan68

I'll put in my two cents worth. I think it is injectors based on the fact that there are no codes set. I would run an Injector Buzz test with the home made tool in the above post, plugged into each of the eight injector connectors to compare the brightnesses. Since the vehicle in question is a 2005, there is no EGR throttle plate to worry about, unless it has one of those aftermarket positive air block-offs stuck closed. But if either were the case, the engine would likely sound like a gasser being cranked over with the spark plugs removed. Will this truck fire up with a hit of Brake Parts Cleaner?

I have one guy in our shop in the bay across that doesn't stop listening to ABBA. It drives me BONKERS.

Thank you for that piece of information. I just updated the IDS to 72.03 as of this post, and re-connected it to the truck outside to check. Low and behold, the updated calibration is now available. But I am NOT flashing it in my driveway. I sure as hell don't feel like having to call work tomorrow morning to be towed into work, in case it should blank the PCM and TCM, which would likely happen with my luck. For the record, I have been instructed to install a NOx sensor as well.

Do I see another 6.4L trend developing?

Well, the FSE is now involved with the one I'm working on. I've been informed that the new calibration is to be released at latest by the end of the week, if not by tomorrow. In the mean time, I've been instructed to replace the NOx sensor (despite PPT RD10 checking out good). What now concerns them, is the loss of accelerator control of engine that has happened twice with this truck since it showed up on our doorstep yesterday morning. We've also been instructed NOT to release the vehicle back to the customer, and I've been instructed to drive it home until I can recreate the symptom again with IDS connected to take a "snapshot" of all the PIDs. When it occured yesterday, I noticed APP 1, APP D and APP E all showed a change during full sweep of the throttle, but APP 2 remained at 0.41 volts. Shutting the engine down and restarting it about three times was all it took to restore accelerator control of engine speed (along with APP 2 to read again). It did this TWICE with only P164a set. Apparently mine is only the fourth such reported case of this happening. The "brake over accelerator" feature is BS by the way, because I attempted it today, with the FSE riding shotgun and IDS in his lap.

Well, two Hotline engineers are stumped with this one, as am I. Both as well as one of my "go to" guys have also informed me that a P164a by itself SHOULD NOT put this vehicle into "idle only" mode. And yes, I've already checked the DEF level and verified the vehicle has the latest calibration update (as of IDS version 72.02). According to the customer, he states that vehicle will accelerate from a stop and feel like it's in neutral, meaning engine speed will increase with throttle response, but no increase in vehicle speed.

Well folks. I have my first one here with P164a set and went through PPT RD up to step RD10. No later calibration available as of yet (my IDS is up to version 72.02). The problem with this one, it operates in engine idle only mode, so we can't release it back to the customer.

A new turbo it is, for the win (just as I thought it would)!!!! Disassembling the old turbo (again) revealed nothing wrong with my work (also just as I thought it would). Sooooooo, the million dollar question becomes, what could/should I have done differently so as to avoid this from happening again?

I had to do that once on a truck that had very poor oil change intervals.

A new FICM it is, for the win!!! 49.5 FICM_M voltage on the new FICM to boot!!! This one was particularly difficult for me to condemn the FICM due to FICM_M, L and V voltages that were within specs even during the concern. After some wiggling and close inspection of wiring, unable to recreate the symptom, I remembered having a tester to plug in. Sure enough plugging in the tester caused the symptom to disappear. I just find it odd that that code sets is when the FICM just goes off line, but yet I can still read voltages. Oh well, live and learn I guess.

Geez, it makes me feel better to know I'm not alone in absolutely hating to wrench on them. That's why when they're retail, I show no mercy on the labour. That engine has had to be one Ford's biggest clusterfuck of all time.

Why does all the bullshit have to happen on a Friday afternoon? I got one here, that stalls randomly due to losing FICM_SYNC. There was a later caibration update for the PCM (3U7A-12A650-FTH). During attempt to reprogram, the PCM and TCM took, but the FICM portion failed. This vehicle appears to have the original FICM in it. FICM_M voltage at 48.5 volts under all conditions? Anyone else ever seen one like this before? If so, what was the repair? When the concern happens, it sets a U0105.

I guess that question implies that I'm not charging enough. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I just did a set of coolers that has the bullshit aftermarket A/C compressor setup to run the refridgeration unit in the box. Since we're on the subject, yes I remove both front seats on every E-Series that I'm deep into. It's good to know I'm not the only one. I've gotten fed up with torturing myself, having to bend parts of my human anatomy into very uncomfortable forms just to wrench on these things.

26 to 30 hours RETAIL CHA-CHING!!!!

Whereabouts on the injectors were they leaking oil? The top two holes adjacent to where the ball tube enters, or the body of the injectors themselves? I always thought oil exiting those holes would be considered normal.

Hmmmm. I wonder how long it takes this guy?

Here is my two cents worth. The last STC fitting update I did (at the customer's request) on a 2006 truck, ended up with a new engine rear cover replacement as well, due to the STC fitting being blown out far enough to do damage to it (I guess that's why this truck was also leaking oil externally from the top-right hand corner of the engine that I had orginally surmised to be an HPOP cover gasket leak). When I had the rear cover removed, I remembered noticing there to be a gallery plug (similar in appearance to an engine frost plug but much smaller) that coincides with the very gallery under the oil cooler screen and into the inlet side of the high pressure oil pump. This gallery plug would not be visible with the HPOP removed from the top unless you were to stick a borescope with a flexible tip down in behind the branch tube and the cam gear. I remembered thinking to myself, MAN OH MAN what would ever happen if this plug were to blow out and how much of a bugger it would be to diagnose. Take it for what it's worth.

Well, this guy customer has opted to order a complete aftermarket turbo from the States. I'll be going to his house to help him install it this weekend. Keeping my fingers crossed.

The only reason I remain at the shop where I'm at, is because I have the luxury of being the only tech that has two bays to work with (our tranny guys don't even have that). I am the ONLY guy that works on diesels at our store. The other guys run away like scared cats when they roll in. ALL engine jobs end up in my bay. My SM has no problem with me bringing in the odd side job (heck he even asks me to work on some of his buddies' vehicles for cash). The downside being space is extremely limited where I'm at and I get paid the same hourly rate as the other ball joint and brake pad changers in our shop. To tell you the truth, I prefer doing a set of out-of-warranty EGR/oil coolers on a 6.0L over trying to struggle to make a day's pay bringing in only 0.8 LOF/Rotates on vehicles with less than 20,000 kms.

7.3L cabs are a cinch to remove aren't they? The last one I did, I didn't even need to evac & recharge the A/C. I just sent the compressor up in the air with the cab. BTW, are you quoting a clutch job with this oil pan reseal?

Aaaahhhhh. But here's the kicker. Judging by the way this thing runs, I'm a thinkin' we're into BIG Do Re Mi to fix this thing up into driveable condition. The white smoke is raw fuel exiting the tailpipe that you can smell from the entire parking lot (not that ours is that big to begin with). Looking under the hood, looks like this thing has been "serviced" by someone employed in the Fortino's meat department. That said, I'm almost thinking this thing might be into an engine.

Well, it appears we have ourselves one here with 217,000 kms. on the clicker. The owner has traded up to an '11 F-350 6.7L. Our sales department is willing to let me have this one for $1500. Do I say yeah, or do I run like Mike Tyson has a hit on me? What say you, gents?

You know, with MAP/MGP and EBP not increasing to the expected value, I'm beginning to point to the center housing itself as the culprit (what are the chances that BOTH EBP and MAP sensors are bad?). I'm just reluctant to tell the guy he needs to spend another $1200 after he's already into me for the trifecta repair. I KNOW that I've had hundreds of these center housings apart and re-assembled without further issue. Just by virtue of the fact that it DOES build boost at the upper RPM range to the peak 26 psi tells me that I can safely rule out improper re-assembly, or any leaks on the intake side or the exhaust side. Have anyone of you ever seen a faulty center housing that you couldn't condemn by looking at it visually?