mchan68

Calm down Larry. If there is one life lesson I am learning every day (and I'm sure everyone of us here is learning too), is that no matter how hard you try, you will NEVER make everyone happy. One can only bend over ass-backwards so far .......

Understood. But then why is the screen under the oil cooler so fine? Wouldn't oil needing to pass this screen also starve the HEUI sytem if flow were restricted, just the same?

Now I wonder if Navistar will update the oil pickup screen to a similar style so that any roller lifters or injectors that blow their tops won't make its way through the pump.

I got one right now. Can you please give me the part number for the part you speak of? Thanks in advance.

It's funny how deceiving the relative compression is on 6.4Ls isn't it? I've been able to run a manual compression test on cylinder #7 using the same method as Joshua's. My shop foreskin fabricated a cart with two BXT-65-850s connected in parallel with heavy duty booster cables for me boost up dead diesels in the parking lot. I also connect it in a similar method to the way you've illustrated it in the photo above. I'll even go step further and manage to start the engine with the cab up in the air for a few seconds with Brake Parts Cleaner.

I'm not aware of any such package that is factory installed. If I recall correctly, there was an SSM awhile back to advise us of the availability of an upgraded 140 amp alternator as well as a fan clutch that will ramp up the duty cycle sooner. Both of which would be considered a non-warrantable upgrade of course.

Figured it out. After programming the new FICM into the truck, for some strange reason, the PCM wouldn't supply the ground on CKT 329 to the starter relay to energize the starter relay. After a brainfart, I borrowed a PCM from a 2006 truck on our lot that I just installed head studs into, and swapped into said truck. Sure enough, the truck fired up right away (and the "check gauges" message as well as the wrench light disappeared). Just for S & G's, I tried to start another PCM reprogram session and it showed the current module calibration level as 4U7A-12A650-BFJ, which if I'm not mistaken is the most current calibration for a late-build 2004 model year truck. I believe for a 2006, it should be 6U7A-12A650-FFE if memory serves me correctly. I guess this also explains the P0487 and P0488 DTCs for the EGR throttle circuits since a 2006 truck doesn't have one.

I knew I should've called in sick today. Okay here's a really weird one guys. A truck came in on the hook yesterday as a no-start. Get ready for this. It is a '99 model year truck that SUPPOSEDLY had a 7.3L originally in it (even though the VIN shows it as an 'S' which is a V10 gasser), but the owner and a "mechanic friend" swapped out the drivetrain, including wiring and dash from an '06 6.0L truck. I know, you guys are probably asking WHY in the hell anyone would want a shit litre over a 7.3L. I go to crank it this morning. The batteries are as flat as can be. So I hook up booster cables to the one battery and a vehicle on one side, and a booster pack to the other battery. At this point, I got my favourite 6.0L no-start PIDs loaded up. Crank it over, and sputters, farts and sneezes like it "tries" to start. All the while, I notice my FICM voltages dropping like dead flies. Soooooo, off I go to grab my tester FICM to plug in. BOOM, she fires up right away. So, off I go to quote a new FICM replace and program. After some arguing between the owner and the parts department over the price of a new FICM, I finally get the go ahead to replace and program a new one. After programming the new one in with ZERO issues, I try to start it, it won't crank over! WTF? And here's the kicker. With the key in the RUN position, it starts if I jumper it with the jump starter wire, and runs fine (FICM volts all good between 49.5 to 50.0). I also notice the "check gauges" message, "wrench light" remain on while the coolant temp gauge no longer works (even though I get EOT of 226 an ECT of 213 readings, but that's a whole 'nother story). Anyone ever run into this before?

Has anyone heard of this yet?

I just tried this method for the first time today. THANKS Coolcat390!!!!

You mean like this?

Funny you mention that. Pretty much all 6.4L engines I've have the valve covers off of, have worn the ball pivot off almost completely where it contacts the valve bridges. Yet on 6.0L engines with equal or higher mileage they all seem intact. The design setup between the two are almost identical. What gives?

Sorry Bruce, my bad. It is the complete oil cooler itself.

Does anyone have a picture of this new part? I was kind of wondering why the part number change up from 3C3Z-6A642-AA to BB, since I've been installing a lot of CAs in the last year. Apparently, it no longer has the oil pressure "tap". I just haven't seen one personally, since it does list for a hefty sum over and above the CA kit.

If you're talking about the junction block, I don't even bother farting around with those connections anymore. I just get my open end wrench and turn them loose with the fitting still attached to the lines. A water pump only pays 8.2 on those, thank you very much.

I wouldn't either, except I would want a V8 turbo diesel under the hood. Call me old school if you will, but NOTHING sounds cooler than the V8 engine roar, not even a V10 or V12 (and yes, I've heard the sound of both).

WHY OH WHY did it have to be a 4 banger? Try stuffing a shit litre diesel in there! Now, THAT would be a challenge!!!

Unless you're pulling either the heads, the engine itself or replacing the branch tube, it's not worth the trouble. The passenger side valve cover requires either engine mount removal or a partial frontal body lift. The driver side can be removed relatively easily.

But now comes the million dollar question. WILL FORD PAY FOR THIS REPAIR UNDER WARRANTY?

If that's the case, what is the proper repair? Replace the crank?

The unit is a Go-Transit utility cube van with 140,000 kms. on it. The last repair I did to to it was a cylinder #8 injector and a catalyst back in June of this year at 117,000 kms. I already checked the basics (air filter restriction, fuel quality check, and the "tap test" of the cat etc.). Driving it feels almost like a stuck turbo not building enough boost. I would've thought that the IDS EGR test would've caught something but it didn't (all values dead smack in the middle of the green zones). It does NOT flag a P2614 and P2617, only P0341 by itself. Not sure on the alternator. It MIGHT have an aftermarket alternator in it, if it matters.

Got one here. An '08 E-450 that can't get out of its own way. Only DTC is P0341 On-Demand. Monitor PIDs during road test and FICM_SYNC and SYNC always indicate YES, so I can't see any CMP or CKP signal dropout. Passes IDS EGR test. All other PIDs look good. Feels like the engine runs rough. When I attempt to look at power balance or run a relative compression test, I get kicked out of the test with the pop-up window telling me there is a synchronization error between CMP and CKP, yet FICM_SYNC and SYNC indicate YES under all engine running conditions. The engine does run a little rough too. Just wondering if an engine harness could possibly cause this issue? I doubt it, but I don't know where else to look. Again, all other PIDs look normal (ie ICP volts, ICP psi, IPR duty cycle, EBP_A, MAP, BARO, FICM_L, FICM_M and FICM_V etc.).

I find the reason the front two cab bolts are the worst to remove is because moisture is somehow allowed to collect in that area between the cage nut and the bolt, due to being somewhat exposed.

I don't know if this helps, but I believe hot idle ICP and IPR data should be around 580 psi (both desired and actual) and 22 to 24%. Sounds almost like you may have a harness issue if you've already replaced the ICP and IPR.

I have a 1993 F-Series 7.3L IDI here with a dual mass flywheel failure. Unfortunately, F7TZ-6477-BA is obsolete. Clutch kit available lists an F81Z-7L596-CA clutch kit available. Three questions. One, will this clutch kit work with both a dual mass flywheel or a conversion to a single mass flywheel? Is a single mass flywheel doable on this? If so, does someone have parts numbers for everything needed? Even an aftermarket flywheel prices out at $2500 which is rediculous. Thanks in advance.