mchan68

I vaguely recall one of my Ford school instructors showing us a spare secondary fuel filter cap with a brass fuel pressure fitting drilled and tapped into it, that could be used specifically for checking fuel pressure on E-Series a few years back.

I guess it's part of the difference in strategies between the two applications. With the E-Series being rated at only 240 BHP/440 ft-lbs. and the F-Series rated at 325 BHP/570 ft-lbs. I would think the F-Series application requires more fueling, hence the higher pressure specs. Just my .

Okay, so I'm not crazy. I was actually thinking the exact same thing.

Keith, does $2453 come close to what a customer would pay to have head gaskets on a 6.0L in your neck of the woods? http://autos.aol.com/auto-repair/repairpal/

Which sensor? EBP? Did it set a P0069 by itself or a P0470 also?

Nice write-up Brad. What I found very interesting in it, is the way you access the crew cab specific cab bolts. Up until reading this, I've always done it by removing the rear seat completely. But I've found that by doing it this way, often requires the assistance of one or two fellow co-workers due to the weight of the rear seat. Making it even more of a pain is when it's one of those seats that has one of those fold-out untility trays underneath, making an already heavy rear seat even heavier. The biggest challenge is finessing it out of the cab through the rear door openings while making sure you don't scratch up the door panel in the process. But after this I may try your method next time. It is also noteworthy to mention, when removing the package tray behind the rear seat, NOT to use an air ratchet or impact gun when removing the three 8mm bolts. I have found many a time, when removing them, at least one of them gives me problems so I now remove them with a hand ratchet to avoid stripping them during removal. For those of you who remove the three lines at the HCU (like I do), have you noticed that the third line (closest to the outer side) always seems to give you problems when trying to re-thread it back into the pump?

http://whitetrashrepairs.com/white-trash/who-needs-a-ford-mechanic/

I don't know about the rest of you guys, but I haven't much success with attempting relative compression tests on these engines because the engine has always ended up either firing up in the middle of the 10...9...8... countdown, and/or the pop-up window appearing, to indicate excessive engine RPM change when doing so. I always assumed that the relative compressions on ALL vehicles did so by disabling fuel (and spark on gassers), so I can only assume the engine is firing up due to ingesting a residual alternative fuel source from SOMEWHERE else. The point being, like Keith already pointed out, attempting this test is as good as useless.

105 to 110 psi is WAYYYY too high. Either you have a fuel pressure regulator stuck closed or your gauge is not reading right. The spec is 56 psi at idle, and no less than 45 psi under load if I recall correctly, with the original pressure regulator. If it has the updated style with the blue spring I believe pressure at idle is bumped up to 65 psi. I think maximum pressure is somewhere around 75 psi before there is harm to be done to the injectors if I recall right. Just to clarify, this IS an early build 2004 (with a 2003 engine and ICP sensor under the turbo) correct? The reason I ask is because I notice your ICP pressure at idle is 580 psi, and I also notice you have an EBP_A PID. If I'm not mistaken, 2003 engines usually idle at around 620 psi and EBP is missing in action (due to inferred EBP strategy).

If the drain tube is properly seated into the the high pressure oil pump cover as well as the turbo, there's no reason for it to leak unless either of the yellow o-rings were torn during removal/installation.

Do I want to know? If it has anything to do with health issues, he already has an open offer to crash at my place as long as needed.

There will be more. Stay tuned.

I've long lost patience when it comes to dealing with vehicles that have aftermarket warranties. What you also failed to mention is that most of these warranty companies will only allow certain "shops" (read: CHEAP) perform covered repairs using parts from vendors of their choice (read: CHEAP no-name brand stuff made in China). Dealerships are usually not allowed to do the repairs.

....which is also why I always quote EVERY rubber hose that coolant passes through whenever any vehicle comes in with oil into coolant contamination. Most of these rubber gaskets don't like varosol as well. How many times do you notice old rubber gaskets swelling up to almost twice its size, when it's been left in the varosol tank?

I don't think the owners of these trucks are though.

Read post #34 of this thread: http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/crank-no-start-turns-into-seized-260925/index3.html

Well guys. I did the mist test. After farting around with the driver side 15 way UVC connector unsuccessfully I said fuck it, and proceeded with the IDS connected and the FUEL_PW PID up (to make sure it stayed at zero). Cranking the engine over with the key in the RUN position and both valve covers removed, revealed some strong fuel mists exiting from cylinders #2 and #8. No visible valvetrain damage is evident at this time. Did a manual compression test, and the results are as follows: Cyl. #1 @ 300 psi, Cyl. #2 @ 300 psi, Cyl. #3 @ 380 psi, Cyl. #4 @ 350 psi, Cyl. #5 @ 380 psi, Cyl. #6 @ 370 psi, Cyl. #7 @ 385 psi and Cyl. #8 @ 300 psi. As per Hot-Line instruction, I even attempted a HP fuel system debris check (step #28 of PC/ED no-start/hard-start). Here's the kicker. With cylinder #2 injector supply line removed, and a rubber hose connected to the outlet of the HP rail and cranking the engine over I get ZERO fuel exiting the hose. So what now? At this point, with three of eight cylinders low on compression and no visible valvetrain damage, it's at the point where the heads are coming off. So, up in the air truck goes with my own B+ and B- supplied to the HFCM, and the drain plug from the oil pan removed, the last check is a fuel leak from the HPFP into the crankcase test (step #24 as per Hot-Line instruction). I left the HFCM powered up while attacking all eight cab bolts with the gas axe (since the cab IS going to be removed any ways). Still no fuel.

Yes I know the one. The one that Ford should've made longer LOL. Should this test not be carried out with ignition in the RUN position though, since it keeps the low pressure fuel pump pumping and the low side of the system pressurized?

Well, Hot-Line is instructing me to remove all glow plugs to perform the "glow plug mist" test. Sounds simple enough. Except when trying to unplug the 15 pin connector on the driver side to the UVC harness. Access to that connector is rediculously tight, which leads me to this question. How important is this step? Bear in mind this vehicle fails to build more than 200 psi of FRP (which is miles away from the minimum spec of 4000). If I were to guess, my thinking is that the purpose is to prevent the injectors from being commanded to pulse (which it shouldn't anyway without the minimum 4000 right?). Also, am I looking for fuel to shoot out of the glow plug hole(s) to determine faulty injector(s) that are leaking fuel past the nozzle(s)? Am I supposed to be doing this with the valve covers removed? Sorry for so many questions. I have read through the PC/ED on some of these tests, and YES I not ashamed to admit that I'm still a little "green" with these 6.4L engines, which must be second nature to most of you gents. But any help you guys can offer is greatly appreciated so I won't be getting it up the ass on this one too. Also, the harness underneath is burnt so badly the damage extends the all three EGT sensors. Does this mandate replacement of the DOC/DPF, since it got THAT hot? I'm assuming that none of the exhaust components are going to come apart co-operatively for inspection.

Well, try to think of it logically. Since you mention the noise diminishes in 4th gear only, try to think of the operating condition that is present only in 4th gear, and not neutral or the rest of the gears. I believe 4th is the only operating condition in which the input and output shafts are locked together as a unit to provide a 1:1 ratio as opposed to turning at different speeds, therefore the surfaces of both shafts that contact each other (which I don't see a bearing between the two), are likely galled.

Yes, I have. I was even asked to e-mail those pictures to some guy at Ford, before any diagnostic assistance would be offered by them. As it stands now, I have been authorized to carry on with diagnosis as needed to determine the cause of the issue, which to me appears to be a high pressure fuel system leak somewhere. But the main question now lies is, how deep do I go?

The vehicle build date is 06/23/2007. The PCM calibration level that is currently installed in this truck is 8U7A-12A650-CF. There is an update available to level CG. The last time this truck was in for a PCM recal was back in March 10th of 2009 at 37370 miles at Napa Ford Lincoln Mercury in CA. The vehicle now has 63630 miles (It's a U.S. vehicle).

I swear to God, Friday afternoons always suck for me!!! After starving for a whole day, I got one of these in on the hook: As you can see, by the appearance tailpipe, there's no doubt in my mind the customer is telling it like it is. Wich I could have been around to witness it. Here's what's left of the DPF pressure sensor and the wiring, which by the way, is burnt completely to a crisp to almost all three EGT sensors, so likely mandates the harness needs to be replaced too. And here is an underbody shot to illustrate exactly how hot it got. KOEO Test: On-Demand: P2032, P2291. Continuous Memory: P0219, P0652, P200E, P2032, P2081, P2085, P2291. Freeze Frame Mode #2: P200E. Freeze Frame Mode #12: Same As Continuous Memory. Pending: P0652, P2032. Vehicle fails to start at this time. Monitored PIDs. FRP psi peaks out at 125 psi during engine cranking. Also monitored IAT, IAT #2, ECT, EOT, EGT_11, EGT_12 and EGT_13 at KOEO. EGT_12 fluctuates between -40*F to 1.7K*F while the others are about 87 to 88*F. Engine oil level appears overfull by using "short stick" method check. Just drained exactly 28 litres of engine oil/fuel mixture from crankcase and CAC. Evidently, SOMETHING inside the high pressure fuel system let go, but WHERE? It also appears I'm into an EGT_12 to start, how about a DOC and DPF? With all those DTCs, where do I begin? Help me out guys!!! I hate 6.4Ls!!!!

That would be the Volkswagen THING, as in the four door convertible right? Thanks for the clarification on how it operates. I always wondered how they worked.