mchan68

Really??? I can barely break even on a 6.4L rad, but on a 6.7L rad all you do is remove the grill and headlight assemblies and everything is easily accessible. I also like the "quick release" rad hoses WAAYYYYY more than the cheesy ones on the 6.4L which also helps speeds things up considerably. I'll tell you what Leon. You give me your secret on a 6.4L rad, and I'll give you mine on a 6.7L one if I haven't already. How's that?

I'm just waiting for some "hero" to start blabbing about how "easy" it is to re & re the rads on these things either on the Ford message boards or into the wrong ears of the wrong guys higher up, along with how much of nose dive in price the rads are going to take, from their insane G-notes that they are now.

Personally, I prefer doing a rad on a 6.7L over that of a 6.4L any day!!! More $$$ for me.

Keith, do you have a PDF file that can be loaded up to share with your Northern friends?

Well, rather than start a new thread, I'll ask here since it pertains to this thread. Gentlemen, what are your thoughts and opinions of flushing out the Ford Gold coolant and refilling the system with this Ford Orange stuff on 6.0L trucks? It seems that there is a significant population on 6.0L owners out there, who are of the belief that the Ford Gold coolant is what is directly responsible for the clogged oil coolers. As such, many have opted to switch it out to the CAT ELC type coolant that doesn't contain silicates. Is the Ford Orange just as good, if not better?

I'll throw in my , if it's even worth that. Anybody know what happened to the Sprinter? If I recall correctly, that van came originally equipped with a 2.7L in-line 5 cylinder turbo-diesel. This would be in the Daimler-Chrysler days that are now gone. Didn't they discontinue that engine, and all you can now get is a V6 gasser? What was the reason for this? If I were to guess, it would likely be due to the lack of power the owners needed for a vehicle of that size/class. I would personally think that to meet the power demands of all the current E-Series owners, the previously rumoured 4.4L "Lion" engine would've proven to be a better replacement before Ford shelved those plans. Since the current E-Series 6.0L is rated at 235 HP and 440 ft-lbs. of torque, I would think the 4.4L would be far closer to that range than the 3.2L Duratorq. By the way, if you click on the on-line workshop manual for the full size Transit, have you noticed the lack of a section for automatic transmissions? Does this mean a manual transmission is going to be offered as well?

What's the matter Alex? You don't like getting golden showers? Actually, when I get to point of separating the lower hose, I don't it. I get an apprentice to do it for me.

I see that you're back at Donway. Funny thing is, I've been offered a position at Yonge-Steeles Ford/Lincoln (the same Pakis that own East Court, Meadowvale and Freeway I think). I politely refused, due to "one of those feelings", and the fact that you're out of there only confirmed it.

Yeah. And for you 'Mericans to see how ridiculous our laws are in Canada, if Jim's dog catches an intruder breaking into his house, and either maims said intruder and/or injures intruder, he can SUE Jim, or worse yet JIM can be charged with a criminal offence. Isn't that right Jim?

With FICM_SYNC and SYNC flickering like that, I would be inclined to believe you have a harness issue. What about ICP psi, ICP desired and IPR duty cycle? Have you ever seen it go to 870 psi and 33% IPR duty cycle at idle? And rolling the dice on a set of dummy plugs can't hurt anything, if it's the late '05 that uses the 10mm allen plugs (not the early '05 that use the 1/2" square drive plug that never fails).

What is with all the hype about installing '03 turbos onto newer trucks anyways? Is there any benefits to performance, or is it really just for the whistle that I keep reading about? Personally, I don't think any '03 truck whistles any louder than the '04 and up trucks.

I have an '03 turbo and pedestal.

Yes, you are correct. It's my flat rate reading again. I didn't see that he mentioned he replaced the high pressure oil pump in that list.

I'll do you one better Jim. What if this van comes in with SLUDGY GOOP overflowing from the degas bottle?

If you don't mind me asking, how much was the bill total to the customer (a. k. a. the other dealer)? How much more would it have been to long/short block it over and above what you did? Did you at least install the updated STC fitting too, while you were "in there"?

I thought it was a boobie.

Those of you who have had E-Series cutaways coming in with Mickey Moused aftermarket installs of tee-ins to the factory heater hoses causing multiple coolant leaks due to poor installation resulting in rub-throughs on various components might want to consider installing the factory heater hoses that are installed on factory auxillary heater equipped applications with the metal tubes that are routed under the vehicle with a "loop-around" for the aftermarket installer to tee into, well away from the engine compartment. The part numbers needed are as follows: 9C2Z-18C553-E Both Heater Hoses for E-Series 6.0L equipped with auxillary heat. XC2Z-18B402-FA (KT-87) Metal Tubes. I wish my camera were working so that I could post pictures to describe the parts. Hope this helps someone else.

I just did a set last week, and the instructions called for three equal steps of 80 ft-lbs. increments, so I did it 80-160-240.

If power balance is locking up when the symptom occurs, that almost tells me you have a harness issue. The owner has already spent money on eight new injectors and a turbo. What's an engine harness now?

If I were doing the job, I would INSIST on having a 2003 engine, or I wouldn't do the job PERIOD. It MAY, or it MAY NOT work. Just the mere probability of the MAY NOT factor is enough reason for me to refuse to do it.

..... and now is when I'm pissed that my camera has stopped working. I just had a 2011 F-550 with a dump box on the back towed in. However, I think the fire damage to this one is WAY more severe. Just looking at it, it needs an engine (everything plastic and rubber is GONE), both front fenders, grill, rad support, windshield wiper cowling, wiper transmission, instrument panel, left front tire..... You get the picture. After reading this, I am now wondering if this is the exact same scenario that played out.

To lift cabs on regular cab configurations, you have to pull the extension arms out or you'll hit the frame going up or coming down, but I'm sure you know that already. Another issue I've ran into, on 6.4L trucks more so, is with it being very nose heavy, I end up having to strap down the rear of the cab to the arms in order to prevent it from tipping over. This is all fine and dandy when the extension arms are removable, but since they installed my 15,000 lb. "truck" hoist, I can no longer do this (the arms aren't removable). In fact, I haven't used my "truck" hoist that much since they installed it. The arms are too thick to fit under any vehicles other than that of an F-Series truck (I work on cars and trucks). So 90% of the time, I find myself using the bay beside me to work with.

A lot of times, I find myself requesting parts by full part numbers just to help speed the process up. It's pretty pathetic when there are parts guys asking ME for the appropriate base part numbers that customers are looking for.

Yes, the engine rear cover is completely different between the manual and automatic engines. Transferring the rear cover is no big deal really, but also mandates the installation of a new rear main seal in the process. To do it PROPERLY also requires removal of the HPOP cover, but I'm sure you knew that too. The pilot bearing is in the flywheel, NOT the crankshaft, so no worries there. Speaking of which, if this truck has that garbage dual mass flywheel, NOW is the time for a clutch job and conversion to the better, more durable solid mass unit. If you need a list of part numbers, look for my post in the PARTS forums. Good luck and have fun.