mchan68

I guess this one's for all the Canadian techs. I notice that the DRL system on all '07 and older trucks consist only of three relays and a resistor. Can anyone tell me if it's only a simple matter of installing the relays and the resistor to get DRLs to function on any U.S. vehicle that comes across to our side of the border? Anyone ever done this before?

Hi guys, my service manager is bugging me to find out if an aftermarket trailer brake control can be installed on 2012 F-350s? Pertaining to the specific truck in question is a 2012 that was built before May 2012. Apparently, before this build date, the option doesn't exist. Is there any way around this? Have any of you come across this issue yet? Here's the VIN for those of you wondering: 1FDRF3GT4CEC201316. Thanks in advance.

By getting all the garbage warranty work that pays squat if you don't have that particular certification.

Times like this make me soooooooo glad I don't do trannies. I wonder how many tranny techs are going to fall off like dead flies because of this now.

Nice drive belt too. Dare I ask what all those unprotected wires ziptied along the underhood harness is for?

Well, another simple test would be to read ALL temperature sensor PIDs at KOEO after cold soak wouldn't it? I would think they ALL should read equal to each other within a degree or two if fuel temperature really is in fact what's in question.

Hydro bills.

I have limited experience with 6.4s too, since I see very few of them in for any major driveability issues, but looking through the PC/ED, I see that reference values specify the range Hotline is telling you. I also vaguely recall that if FRT goes up to a certain, the engine WILL derate, but at what exact temperature escapes me. If FRT were actually an issue in your case, I would think a DTC would have been set.

If I have to go through with any type of bullshit approval process that takes ten times longer than the actual wrench time repairing the vehicle for said concern (and the time it PAYS me), the vehicle gets booted outside to grow plants under and put on HOLD or FINISH status, until someone with more patience than I have actually takes the time to get the repair authorized for me.

Okay, I was informed that customer still had economy tune loaded when he dropped the truck off to me. I have since returned it to the stock calibration under his instruction. After returning to stock, the truck drives a lot more like I'm used to (no surprise). I guess that explains some of the black smoke exiting the tailpipe under acceleration as well as the frequent and loud turbo farting that is now gone. This time, I managed to take two snapshot recordings with IDS while accelerating under WOT on my drive in this morning. This time, ICP_DES maxes out at 3915 psi while ICP_psi actual hovers close to those numbers, so I suspect the tuner is what's causing the variations mentioned above. However, the customer states that the surging had began long after he installed the tuner, and even returned it to the stock setting unable to repair it successfully. I have tried wiggle testing the ICP connector, and the numbers don't budge. At KOEO, ICP reads 0.24 volts which is dead squarely where it should be. Just curious, what are the chances an intermittently sticking IPR could be causing this? Also, this truck does have an update in the PCM calibration available. Here is what I'm wondering. The available update has a 5U7A prefix, which tells me it will have the new P012F and P0234 DTCs along with the accompanying engine de-rate strategies added. Is this still so, even though this truck is equipped with a 2004 engine in it? Hotline says yes, but I'm unsure if the guy really knows.

Yes, that's normal for '03 engines. '04 and up have desired and actual at 580 psi.

I have a guy here that wants me to look at an ongoing high pressure oil fluctuation issue. After scanning it, I got a P2290 in memory. At idle, ICP psi actual and desired remain steady at 580 psi with IPR at between 21 to 24 % which seems normal. Driving it on the highway under WOT, ICP actual maxes out at 3700 psi while ICP desired shoots up to 4200 to 4500 psi. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that desired number does seem a little high doesn't it? Also, I just wanted your opinions on this aftermarket pump for '03 and '04 trucks: http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-200460lbillethighpressureoilpumphpop.aspx I've never installed one of these, but I've never read anything bad about them either. BTW, he does have an economy tune loaded on the truck if that makes a difference.

Gawd Jim, if you think THAT's hot, come to my shop this past week. Our circus manager, just bought four new fans for the shop. The temps here this week have ranged between 32 to 37*C and Humidex readings of around the mid 40s!!! You should try working at our shop with THOSE conditions.

I have a different prediction. He will melt the oil filter standpipe and take the engine with it. With the EGR cooler still intact (2003 EGR cooler).

Way to go Keith!!!! I'm glad I'm not the only one who HATES working on E-Series pieces of turds!!!!

Virtually NOTHING inside the cab is touched, is one tip that comes to mind. You know the funky two connectors on the outer side of the driver side framerail that collect water? Those have to be disconnected. You disconnect the brake master cylinder from the vacuum booster and let it hang by the lines. The other connections should be self-explanatory.

Cab removals on F-150 bodies are a walk in the park compared to Super Duty bodies!!!

Where can one of these t-shirts be obtained?

The only information missing is how little time this job can be done by using this method. Gentlemen, get your fresh new 10mm sockets ready!!!

See your other post in the parts section for part numbers. BTW, I would strongly advise against installing a K & N air intake. I have seen my share of dusted turbos from them. The stock air intake system is more than capable of supplying adequate airflow up to 500 HP if that's what he's after.

And don't forget 3C3Z-9T288-AA which is the discharge tube too. I assume the purpose of this post is a request for part numbers.

How many of you have been getting the system voltage too low message that boots you out of the process while attempting the relfash? I have one right now that I have two booster sources connected, and still getting the same fucking message for the measely 0.7 that this bullshit pays!!!

2003 engines NEVER fail the EGR cooler anyways, so it's a moot point. I get a real kick out of the number of 2003 trucks on the road running EGR deletes in them. While I fully understand why owners would want them, on the flip side of things, I see MANY trucks with high mileage still using the original EGR coolers in them, right down to the original orange EGR cooler inlet hoses, INCLUDING late-2004 and up ones.

Yes, that is correct. On a 2003 engine you HAVE TO remove the intake to access the HPOP. It's funny that you should post this up now. I just did one this last Friday. Remove the intake and EGR cooler as one assembly together. And ditto on what Keith said regarding the one rear bolt on the turbo. I use a dentist's mirror and a torch if it's stubborn. The pics that Bruce are referring are here: And here is the discharge tube where it contacts the underside of the cover. And here is how I like to air test a 2003 engine for HPO leaks, except that by doing it using this method removes the IPR and HPOP from the equation. GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN.