mchan68

I've only done two so far, and the main bother for me is how messy the job gets with coolant exiting at a very high rate. There doesn't seem to be any clean, mess free way of draining coolant. The secondary bother is working blind, especially when trying to start the inner exhaust to cooler bolt taking care not to strip it.

….which makes the other part the brake pressure transducer.

I just did my first one yesterday. Just looking for feedback. Which coolant tubes do you guys remove, and where do you disconnect them from? I agree, a two foot long 1/4" drive extension is the tool for this job.

There is no left and right on this particular vehicle. Only the driver's door handle is equipped with a lock cylinder.

On one of the trucks I did the 18N03 repair on, came back with a complaint of the driver's door unable to close. When I was finally able to replicate the condition, I noticed the lock would neither lock or unlock. It was then, I pinpointed the cause to the driver's door exterior lock cylinder to latch rod jamming. So I replaced the lock rod. The replacement rod has different bends. Anyone else run into this before?

…..and now arrives 18M06 folks!!! Everybody clap their hands!!!

What model year?

When there's an aftermarket refrigeration compressor and the associated plumbing added under the hood it is.

Good to know!!! I'll have to try that next time. I just finished up the two most horrible jobs ever one could get on one of these, an EGR cooler replacement AS WELL AS a 16S32 that had metal present in the fuel system!!!

Why haven't you tried a known good sender? You just said you plugged in the two new senders into another truck that gauge is working properly on, and got the same result if I understood correctly. I vaguely recall years ago I ran into this exact same issue on another vehicle too.

There is no PCM input for ECT on any 7.3L, only EOT. The coolant temp sender is used exclusively for instrument cluster gauge indication on this engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa_UD6q0qdY

Yes. Not just with the IDS used to complete the process, but also our shop IDS as well, so that it wouldn't identify a previous session when connected to the DLC.

Okay.... For those of you wondering, I haven't received any response from Hotline yet. Here's my workaround. I have managed to complete four stock units by starting IDS sessions and clicking NO when it identifies the vehicle. At that point, when IDS asks for a PCM part number and/or tear tag number, I simply punch in the MBW7 tear tag number retrieved from OASIS. At that point, IDS proceeds with the PCM calibration by downloading the As-Built data from the internet. Once this process completes, it moves onto the NOx11M recalibration, only to display yet again, the same message, "Are you here to obtain PCM part numbers so that you can flash program the PCM or do you wish to restore the PCM's configuration data back to factory original settings?" leaving you with the only choice of clicking the "confirm" prompt and the next screen, "Do you wish to re-try?" with a YES and NO choice. After hitting that same brick wall as I did when attempting to do the reprogram by the usual method, I decided to ignore the request and simply started up the engine and then clicked YES. Since the IDS senses the engine running, it then requests the engine to be turned off rather than going back into that endless circle of the two screens mentioned above. Upon shutting the engine down, it then proceeds to reprogramming the TCM and then the process completes. Since the above mentioned method managed to get the process to complete with success, I then tried it on another unit today, this time starting the session by the usual method and then starting the engine as soon as that message causing me this grief displays. It looks like starting the engine when not requested to do so, manages to get the process to complete for those of you wondering.

I have my third one here doing exactly as you describe, getting on my last nerve. I too, have opened a Hotline Contact request. What was the suggested resolution?

Is anyone else having issues with reprogramming the PCMs on these? I have one right now, that I've used three different IDS/VCM combos unable to complete the process.

Wow..... Is FoMoCo for real? How many of you have gotten into doing one of these delights yet? If I get this right, that's 61 pages of nonsense reading for a procedure that only pays us 2.5 hours, not to mention cuts down the time paid if 17S33 is open as well to add insult to injury!!! Does anyone else seem to think this is just one large Band Aid on FoMoCo's part that is only going to yield a very limited benefit to the customer for the amount of work (time wasting?) that we are going to be subjected to?

Remove the wiper cowl and fresh air inlet duct. Trust me, it'll make easier work of accessing the clamp as well as the fasteners at the back of the cooler.

Okay after my third one done today. I just discovered yet another easier method I thought I'd share with you. DON'T remove the subframe nor the engine support bracket. Remove the wiper cowl, fresh air inlet duct, air cleaner upper and lower housing assemblies and it'll come out the top!!! Some cautions for those of you who choose to try this method. Be careful not to damage the reductant line and injector as you finesse the assembly out and in. Remove the lower bracket that connects the assembly to the lower right of the engine block before going out/in and it'll go.

I've been doing my share of DEF tank heaters here as well. Both on F-Series under the campaign, and on Transits as well. I especially like doing the ones on Transits because most of them have been out of warranty.

What is the hour count of this truck, relative to the miles? Higher hour count trucks tend to be the offenders.

Years ago, I had a brand spanking new F-550 towed in to me no-start after the install of the upfitted equipment which consisted of the dump body along with an aftermarket trailer brake control. Long story short, I learned the hard way that on units equipped or not equipped with the factory trailer brake controller, the connector to it will always be present, namely C2142. If you look at the connector pins #2 and #3, you will notice there are two wires entering each of the two cavities which is where HS-CAN + and HS-CAN - terminate. The upfitter had cut off the entire connector pigtail, and spliced only the wires they needed to run the aftermarket controller, while dead ending the two above mentioned circuits. In doing so, they cut off the PCM, BCM and IPC from the network. That would be VDB-04 (WH-BU) and VDB-05 (WH).

I know the factory trailer brake controller can cut the BCM and PCM off of the network. Don't ask me how I know!!!

Did TSB 14-0192 and truck is now fixed.