Alex Bruene

We have one here with a broken cylinder 6 piston. I'll post pictures a little later.

But, the EGR cooler is so easy to remove, especially once the intake manifold is removed. It makes it so much easier to replace the injectors and the lines on the right side. I can't see how leaving it in place can have any benefit as far as turn around time is concerned.

Personally, I don't use anything other than Ford parts for a repair like that. On the topic of studs on a 6.4... Years ago, I was in 6.4 a training seminar put on by some cats at Blue Diamond. It had techs from dealers, independents, fleets and such. Quite a few people asked why they were using TTY bolts, rather than studs on 6.0s and 6.4s. Their answer was that there is not enough material in the block to withstand the clamping forces of head studs, especially on a 6.4, where the bore and bolt holes are larger; which can lead to a cracked block. I don't know if they were blowing smoke out of their asses, but it is a policy that I live by.

Personally, I find no need for it. I've used it a few times for arguments sake, and still prefer using the press (other than Fusions/MKS').

We have the OTC kit. It works well. The kit weighs about as much as a small house.

I'd agree with that.

WWW.PROTECHNICIAN.COM is working. It has been through the whole ordeal.

I've run into similar issues with some bucket trucks over the years. I didn't contact Ford prior to the repair. I just perform the repair as necessary, charge MT as necessary and support it with documentation. I was never so much as questioned about it.

It seems to be the way it's going with newly built shops. There are a few around here. Boxes are supplied, but tools aren't. I guess it's cool, unless you're the guy who just paid 10Gs for a new tool box, just so you can take it home.

I seem to recall talking about using the EGR throttle plate as a positive air shutdown during new model training... I swear we were told the throttle plate isn't strong enough.

All this talk about separating the hose doesn't makes that much sense (to me), since the whole assembly only takes about half an hour to change...

HSRs are all position tires. HDRs are drive axle only tires. You can get 450s and 550s with HSRs all around, or HSRs on the front and HDRs on the rear. It all depends on who spec'd out the truck, I believe.

I've also replaced a tonne of those oil separators. But, I did notice last week when I accidentally left an oil cap off of a 6.7, the CEL came on with that code after a short roadtest... so, that code can set that way also.

I would recommend it in a heartbeat, as long as it isn't your primary lift. Not many negatives. A little awkward at times when wheel removal is required. They take up a fair bit of space when not in use. Cab removal isn't as easy. Otherwise, all good. Positives... flexibility, easy set up. The ability to lift 52,000 pounds is handy too.

Update... I decided to roll the dice on replacing 4 injectors... So, I replaced the right bank injectors and retested it. The concern was still evident. I then resealed the injectors I took out of the right side and put them in the left side. All is good now.

Not to mention Nissan techs are now going to have to learn a whole new way of life.

I don't know if an inverse leak test will identify the faulty injector, because when I run return port leak test when the engine is cool, no fuel flows. I think I'm going to have to recommend 8 injectors.

I've sort of figured it out. I had to run a return port leakage test when the engine was hot. Almost like sticking your hands deep in to the surface of the sun. There is a leaking injector, but only when hot. I'm waiting for authorization to run an inverse leak test.

The FRP is 0.49v at 0 psi. The fuel temperature is fine. If you've ever interrupted a 6.4 during a stationary regen, they usually won't start right away... This truck acts the EXACT same way, but not after a regeneration.

Gentlemen... I have a 2008 F-350 with a 6.4. I have seen this truck on a few occasions with a CEL and DTC P0087. I've never been able to verify an issue. It usually goes for weeks after the DTC is cleared before it comes back. I was finally able to verify an issue today. After driving it on the highway, and getting it ridiculously hot, the engine will crank, but not start immediately after shutting it down. When the concern happens, FRP is about 1200 psi. Low pressure is fine, and there is no air in the fuel. If I let it sit for a mere 10 minutes, it will start up perfectly fine and run and drive with no issues. I just want to bang this off you guys before I tear in to it, because by the time I get it torn down, it's going to be cool enough to not exhibit any issues. Has anybody seen something like this before? Thanks!

I do them without the WSM partial cab lift, but I do tilt the cab slightly... I remove the body bolts, minus the rear row and jack the cab up just enough to slip a 4x4 between the front of the body and the frame. The only things I disconnect are the negative battery cables, hot side CAC duct at the CAC and unpin the lower radiator hose from the rad support. It allows for more than enough room to get all the bolts and the pan, but you need to remove the pick-up tube before the pan will fit out.

An FMPP brake inspection is supposed to include removal and inspection of the pads, not just a visual. Hence the reason they don't pay the R and I. We get paid the R and I time, because our SM doesn't think it's fair. I don't know who (warranty or internal) pays the labor.

I send them out to be repaired. The place we use charges about $400.

My parts manager called me in to ask about it last week when one of our fleets was trying to return a few dozen of them... I knew nothing of it up until then.

I put them on the outside pad. Usually on the bottom, but I've put them on the top too. I don't think it matters. Everybody else here throws them in the bin.