Alex Bruene

The small, 2 bolt starter is a gear reduction starter. I think they're way better, and faster than the old, 3 bolt style.

Thanks!

Super old topic, I know... But does anybody have a procedure for removing Econoline bodies? We have one here that we want to attempt it on, but am still undecided...

I've done them. It is just that simple. You use the steering wheel switch to scroll to "yes", then hit ok.

I've taken power from the large power terminal at the alternator a few times... I just didn't want to admit it...

I had to do one of these 2 weeks ago. I removed the cab for better access. I was able to put a good weld on the broken bolt... strong enough to rock the engine when I was trying to take it out. It wouldn't budge. I ended up having to completely drill out the bolt and retap the hole... Not looking forward to seeing too many more of these.

Done dozens. I've seen them break in a few different spots. I usually just roll under the truck and pull on the wires where they come out of the plastic casing. Usually, you'll end up easily finding where the wire is broken, as it will just pull apart.

I've never had that issue. Mind you, I've only ever had one that set the P2457 code. I always print the self test results and attach it to the RO.

It isn't possible to "induce" a DTC? Is it?

I lay the condensor on top of the engine without disconnecting the lines. I only remove the cold side CAC duct, and tilt the CAC forward, leaving the hot side tube attached. Not including draining and filling, it takes me under an hour.

My wife and I are in the market for a C-class RV. I can't wait for them to start making them out of Transits.

Normally, they have a pretty wild shake at idle when they have too much oil in the sump. At least that's what I've noticed.

These are the pliers. They are 9" Knipex I bought from Matco. There is no model number on them. They NEVER slip.

I don't know the number off hand. I'll post it when I get to work tomorrow.

I have the Knipex. Best pliers I've ever used for those snap rings.

On FMPP services, I always run the VIN to make sure the advisor has given me the correct service to do based on the interval and package the customer has purchased. Quite a few times I've been handed a work order that says to simply change the oil and rotate the tires, only to find there was supposed to be way more work done.

They also tend to leak when you use 2 of them!

I had one with a noisy gearset. It had absolutely zero pinion preload, and just about the same carrier preload. When I unbolted the caps, the carrier fell out.

There was an officer from our provincial "Smog Patrol" in here a little while ago gathering some "information". He left me an e-mail address to send off VINs from vehicles with removed pollution control devices... if I felt so inclined.

They are getting pretty tough up here. I know of one person who was busted, he was fined $5000 for having the dpf off of his truck, and was forced to reinstall the components and take the vehicle in for an inspection. We've had a few customers come in to have their stuff reinstalled after being fined. One local shop that was installing deletes was forced to stop selling/installing deletes or risk being fined $25000 per vehicle.

I've also never turned the engine to install rockers. I just use a little common sense.

Drain the oil first and look for the fuzzy drain plug. If it needs a cam and lifter, I wouldn't do anything less than a short block. Just sayin'.

Melt it.

In the warranty policy manual. Section 4 page 12, there is a form for warranty status change request. They don't call me the "Anti-Mod" around here for nothing!

I lubricate everything with silicone dielectric grease. I always have. I've never had an issue.