Alex Bruene

I've thought about it, but I don't think it's worth the potential of missing something wrong with the rear seals. JMHO.

I break the sound insulator push pins and don't reinstall them. I agree that the short time involved in removing the upper doesn't warrant destroying my arm to loosen the ebp tube nut.

This topic has made me rethink the whole intake manifold removal thing. It is certainly easier to remove the cooler with the intake removed, and since I've seen so many EGR cooler failures lately, I've decided to start removing the intake. Yesterday, my apprentice timed me removing the upper. It took me 8 minutes. Why the phuck have I not been doing it like this all along?

The last one I had came in with a CEL and P1249. I replaced the wastegate solenoid and actuator and released it. Before I let it go, it would still set the DTC on a KOER test, but not the light. The truck has been back a few times for various reasons, but never a CEL. I run a KOER every time it's in, and it always sets the code. Never a light anymore...

I don't know why we don't do the same, but I recall from my Cummins training that no emergency or transit vehicles will derate or shut down. Emergency vehicles for the obvious reasons, and transit vehicles would not so as to not have a shut down on train tracks.

I've worked with quite a few flat rate detailers over the years. Most of them made as much as the average earning techs. One guy I recall in particular made more money that the general manager, and they were always fighting due to the GM's wage envy.

As far as intake manifold removal is concerned, I never touch the coolant tube. It doesn't get in the way for me. I have found the perfect angle to hold my tongue to get the intake manifold out. All I remove is the CAC tube and intake tube. Unbolt the manifold, and twist it out. As far as the broken bolts go, I have been experimenting with arc welder extraction for the past 6 months or so, and honestly, I'll never drill another bolt again. The one I did last week, I broke both bolts in to the exhaust manifold, and got them out in under 10 minutes each. I found that I would spend a lot more time drilling them... Not to mention the number of drill bits you destroy on alloy bolts.

The very first thing I do is attempt to remove the EGR pipe bolts that go into the exhaust manifold. If they break, I pull the manifold. If they don't, I remove the battery. I guess it doesn't really make that much of a difference anymore. I've done so many manifolds, I can get the upper out in under 10 minutes. I suppose I'm just stubborn.

Not really. An 8mm 1/4" drive flex socket makes short work of all those bolts.

I don't take that tube out either. Unless I break the bolts going in to the exhaust manifold. In fact, I only remove the intake if I break the bolts... Otherwise, I remove the battery and PCM and pull the cooler out that side.

I'm doing one right now for a P0401.

These ones were hacked off with a sawzall.

I suppose the price of scrap precious metals must be pretty good. I got a call from a fleet I service on Friday morning. As it turns out, overnight Thursday to Friday, they had 4 DPFs chopped off in their parking lot. I visited to assess the vehicles so I knew what needed to be ordered, as to get them back on the road A.S.A.P. While I was visiting, I spoke with the police officer who was responding to the call. Apparently this is a big thing in the big city, with DPF thefts occurring on a daily basis. Close to $25,000 in repairs when all was said and done. I hope this gets shut down as quickly as it started!

I despise 6.4s. Worst engine ever. But, they do provide me with a very comfortable living!

I've had no issues.

I asked about that at a training session I had with IH once. They said the sleeves can be damaged during detorquing if the glow plugs or injectors are left in.

I had to perform a manual regeneration on one for the same reason on Monday. He drove for 3 days with the drive to clean message on.

I'd have let whoever quoted it at 12 hours do the job. Thankfully those things don't have A/C, so it makes it easier.

I find repaired driveshafts don't last either. One reason is because they use greaseable universal joints in a position that is very difficult to get a grease gun into... and, we (I?) don't typically look for grease fittings there.

I love that one!

If you order the fuel pressure regualtor seal kit (9T517?) it comes with the keyhole gasket, spring and plunger. No tricks necessary.

Seeing that it's formulated with CI-4 oil, rather than CJ-4 oil would make me think it's for older engines.

I was going to suggest the lack of grease, but that one certainly looks like it's been well lubed.

Experiences my vary. Personally, I'm not a supporter of unions at all.

I have T30 bits that are about an inch and a half long. They make is really easy to spin the bolt out with your fingers.