Alex Bruene

As far as I have ever known, the glow plug failure is an effect of the valve failure, and not the other way around. And, as far as I am also concerned, Makuloco has about as much credibility with me as Bill Hewitt does... There's a reason he doesn't work for Ford any more.

I've done a few cab lifts with my mobile hoist... I find it doesn't quite lift the cab high enough to get the engine lifted high enough to get over the bumper... Did you find the same?

I started thinking crankcase pressure as I was approaching seal #4...

Guaranteed money...

I just use the Ford stuff.

I had that issue with my last dealership. They wouldn't give us WIFI access. The IT guy said that if he gave it to us, we could access the company server and find confidential information... I guess you could only do that with your own computer, but not the laptops that were already connected to the network

Thanks. One of the guys here was replacing the HPOP on his own truck, but it wouldn't start afterwards. He had only removed one plug... Which was correct... Cutting the wiring to the IPR apparently caused his issue...

Before you ask, it wasn't me... But, it's been a long time since I've replaced a high pressure oil pump on an early build, but, does the new pump come with 1 or 2 plastic plugs during shipping?

Lately, I just crack the bolt, then soak it with penetrating fluid. They have been coming out without issue. Now that I've said this, I guarantee the next one will break. Cheers!

What issue did the 6.0 F-Series air filtration have?

With that kind of compression, I'd perform a crankcase pressure test next.

P0460 can set if the fuel level does not show any sufficient drop... I can't remember the amount it has to drop, but it was a huge concern with short-term rentals; such as Home Depot trucks that would only go a few kilometers, and then get filled before being dropped off. The PCM doesn't see the fuel level drop, and figures the sender isn't working... I wonder if the extra tank is causing that to happen...

U-Haul, baby!

That's what I do!

Nope. Not this guy. I've seen a few thousand port plug leaks, but I still have yet to see a failed seal on a stand pipe.

I think they're getting to that point here too. The police that responded to the last call seemed to be more concerned with the fact that somebody at a metal recycler is accepting these parts than he was with the thefts. The ones being taken here are being cut off in a way that they can't be reused.

I service a fleet that's been hit twice. First time for 4 units, second time for 6.

I've only ever seen standpipe seals leak on LCFs. I've yet to see it on a 6.0.

No. Mind you, I only lift it just high enough to fit the block of wood. Usually, I have to knock it in with a hammer.

I do everything on 6.4s like that... short of major engine work. I'll do turbos, oil coolers, HPFPs and such that way. I can get a RHS inlet pipe out in well under an hour using that method.

I have never done it on a 6.7, but on 6.4s, I remove all the body bolts except the rear row. Disconnect both battery ground cables, remove the headlights, unpin the lower radiator hose from the rad support and disconnect the cold side CAC tube from the cooler. Then, I jack up the front of the cab enough to put a 4X4 between the body and the frame.

We've pulled the body, and are going to slide the transmission back far enough to get the rear cover off. The branch tube on this one is leaking. I had it for a no start hot, and found the STC blown out. I replaced the STC and put it all back together to find the issue was still there. After pulling the valve covers, I found the leak to be in the STC area still. I removed the HPOP, plugged the hole in the branch tube and poured dye down the stand pipe and was able to see the leak. FWIW, the pipe was not bent. There was still about 1/4" between the pipe and the rear cover.

No big deal. It doesn't look too bad. He's plugging away at it. I'm sitting in a chair with my feet up, watching.

You need to remove the HPOP, rear engine cover, a couple of push rods. The WSM calls for engine removal, as it is extremely difficult to see what you're doing when it comes to unbolting the branch tube. The branch tube comes out the back of the engine once the rear engine cover is removed. If you want to find the procedure, just go to the HPOP procedure. At the end of the procedure, it will give you link to the branch tube procedure (should you find the tube is damaged while doing the pump).

I am not a cab remover. Not normally, anyway... But, my apprentice likes to do shit like this...so, I'll let him. This is a cargo van that needs a branch tube. I don't mind pulling the engine out, but I'm not doing the job... just overseeing (and getting paid for) it...