nelsona19

When I see that many codes, check FICM first, then check the engine harness. I just remember how the exposed grounds used to cut through the other wires in the harness. And if its on an ambulance you know that poor things been hacked and aborted several times.

Tires are usually the first thing I check when dealing with a death wobble after hitting a bump. Been down the rabbit hole a few times with the death wobble parts replacing. I mean i'd check over the whole suspension, maybe recommend a dampener. But I've been bit by tires more than a few times. I always feel better swapping on a known good set on to verify it's going to fix it.

Hey just wanted to update you guys on how the home-brewed undercoating/rustproofing worked out. So far on the two vehicles the wife and I drive in the winter(2004 Lincoln Navigator/1998 Expedition) have both held up really well thanks to Bruce's idea. I usually reapply once a year and yes it is a little messy, just think ahead a bit. Thanks again Bruce.

Sounds like an ASE question.

Well guys I finally did it. I got a Job I've been trying to get for 10 years with one of the local utility companies. I left the dealershit in July and don't miss it one bit. I even got to take home my tool box and tools because they were mostly all provided. Sorry I haven't been more active on here but that's why. Thanks for all the help over the years. I'll still pop in from time to time but doubt I'll have much to add other than peanut gallery commentary.

I can't believe you ruined his construction site camo, took him months to get it just right!

I'm not sure if you still have the cables and stuff, but I still use mine at home and some extra cables would be handy. Let me know if you still have them. thanks

Funny you should bring this up, I was thinking about upgrading a WDS I use at home to SSD. Mainly cause I'm sick of the slow start time since I have to take it to the vehicle to start it up because the battery is junk. Any advice on switching it over? I used to be into computer building, but it's been awhile. The only thing I'm kind of worried about is if the drivers will work being this is a windows 98 based machine. Oh, and the only reason I keep the WDS alive is because I work on a lot of older stuff at home and it's nice to have something that will do most everything on them and doesn't cost me a yearly subscription.

I had the same concern on one, ended up being the paper disk from fuel additive container was plugging tank pickup and would cause the intermittent lack of power and p0087.I also put fuel filters in it first just to have it almost die on test drive. Customer was not happy when he had to pay for it.

If I remember right 9 inch differential ring gears weren't actually 9 inches. The ring gear came in a bunch of different sizes but the carrier is essentially the same with only a couple different variations.

I recently became the CNG guy in my shop,(after a service advisor got a fleet of them to start coming in), since back in the day when the alternative fuels certification was around and I got certified. I have looked around for some training on the systems, so far all I've found were a bunch of cummins based training videos. They are nice but haven't come across any Ford based ones and Ford doesn't offer the alternative fuel courses any more. If you across any helpful training please let me know, thanks.

Maybe we'll get lucky and they'll lose all the SLTS info and we can just charge M time for a while!

I think that's where the blinker fluid goes?

This ought to be good!

And yet somehow the labor times get lower?

Thanks Bruce for confirming my idea. I've got a couple old 1954 ford customlines and I noticed the trans tunnel and anything else coated in oil didn't rust but of course the rocker panels which didn't get any oil rusted out. Just wanted and good solution to a never ending problem. I would rather it be oily than rusty my self.

I've noticed the quality of remans has drastically dropped. I put a complete 6.0l in an ambulance last month just to have a turbo that was stuck solid. After disassembling the said turbo, the center section looked like swiss cheese. Now I have another ambulance with a reman complete 6.0l, (put in by another shop and now its under the new 2yr parts warranty) with blown up injector and gouged high pressure rail, probably from improper install. So I order new rail and this is what I got, way worse than what it is replacing.

Guy just bought this truck for his son, checked it over himself, wanted a "safety inspection" just to have piece of mind. I think I know where to start.

I'm really sick of watching my mechanically sound cars body deteriorate from the salt spray they use on the roads around here. I was wondering what you guys use/suggest for undercoating. I was thinking of making some home made under coating using used engine oil or tar. I've used the stuff out of the can like the 3m or ford under coating but it never seems to hold up. It gets a little expensive reapplying every year and wouldn't mind finding a cheaper/free alternative or more permanent one. thanks

I guess for is coming out with a new 2.0l diesel in Europe, this ought to be interesting. http://www.trucktrend.com/news/1604-ford-introduces-new-ecoblue-2-0l-diesel-in-europe/

I've found that a piece of 1/8 inch steel works great as a spreader if the knuckle has the threads cast in it. You just thread the bolt in on the opposite side of the threads and put the steel in the slot and run her in till it's wide enough.

I wouldn't do it for less than 25 myself.

I just put in my application this morning on the GT.... I wonder what my D plan is gonna be on it?

my bad, glad I'm not a parts guy, worst part is my parts guys might have made the same mistake

according to my book the F2AZ-2B091-A is with speed control, and the F2AZ-2B091B is without