Jeff_E

Hotline had me block off both heads individually and record IPR readings at idle and 1500 rpm, then told me to replace the inj o-rings on the bank that had the highest IPR.

When I blocked the right head, I got 11.7 at idle and 15.6 at 1500 rpm.

When I blocked the left head, I got 11.7 at idle and 14.06 at 1500 rpm, so I proceeded to remove all 4 left bank injectors and I cant see any problems with the O rings.

I've got another email in to hotline now.

ON EDIT: closer inspection found 1 o-ring that was slightly deteriorated at the edge. I'll keep you guys posted whether or not it fixes it, if for no other reason than I'll be able to search for this thread next time I get one of these problem children in the door.

Well, HPOP did NOT fix mine. I even cleaned out the fuel sender screens too and it still sets P1211 when accelerating over 70mph. I've got an email in to hotline, but if anyone else has something to add I'm all ears. I was hoping the new HPP would come with a new IPR but it didn't so I'm going to try and scrounge one up somewhere and try it while I'm waiting for hotline.

I'm thinking so because mine hit 65% at some points and leveled off there. I'm trying a hp pump, I'll report back when it's done, Thanks Mike.

Mike, what ended up fixing this one for you? I've got one doing the same thing with virtually identical numbers as yours. I was hoping to consult with you before recomming a HP pump to my customer.

The 2011 has a larger fuel door, and the body line around the wheel opening is indented instead of a simple crease. Why Ford is obsessed with ugly exaggerated wheel openings I'll never understand.

I've seen several 3v 5.4's with worn roller lifters causing a valvetrain tick.

Had one that actually had low oil pressure to the point where the oil light would come on at idle, with Hotline's help - found the cam bearing surfaces in the heads were excessively worn. They didn't look too badly scored, but it was enough... New heads fixed that one.

Yeah, I agree with all of that Keith. Certainly that dealer dropped the ball on the missing bolt and dip stick tube ect. The customer strikes me as a little arrogant and quick to jump to conclusions on his vehicle that has almost a million miles though.

Reminds me of that Seinfeld episode with the soup nazi. If a customer with an attitude like that came in to buy some soup, the guy behind the counter would yell "NO SOUP FOR YOU" and the cashier would simultaneously grab the soup out of his hands and throw his money back in his face. But if he came in humble and polite, he would get some of the best soup in town. I guess what I'm getting at, is maybe he should have went in and talked privately with the service manager about his concerns and at least given the dealer a chance to make it right or explain what more needs to be done without making a public smear job on Youtube.

I read the "Dealer Says I need a new engine" thread, and from what I get out of it, during the replacement of the 3 injectors, the dealer had found the tip had broken off one of them and probably shelled the engine. The customer was told this, but opted to only replace the injector(s) and see how it went. The dealer was wrong when they apparently said it was all fixed, but I'm guessing that could have been a mis-communication between the tech and service adviser. Sometimes being "done" with a repair to the point the customer authorized, isn't the same as being "fixed" as would be the case if a injector tip really did shell the engine. Those kinds of mis-communications happen all the time. That being said, If I were working on something that the customer only wanted partially fixed, and I knew had a junk engine, I don't know that I would bother worrying too much about his pre-existing broken dip stick tube if he doesn't even want me to fix his junk engine. I would equate that to not advising the customer with an estimate to re-attach a rear view mirror to a windshield that has a giant hole in it-after a windshield replacement was declined. Then again, maybe I'm just bias in favor of siding with dealership, I do work for one after all, it's only natural.

I'm wondering why is it, if the owner of that truck is so smart and capable of taking it apart himself, why did he pay a dealership $1700 to fix it for him??? Perhaps he should man up and fix it himself?

You'd be amazed what an AWD Escape can do with a hitch... My uncle uses his to pull his pontoon boat out of the water and tow it from his lake cabin up north back home for the winter. He was telling me how difficult it is sometimes because he has all 4 wheels spinning to get through the sand beach with the big old pontoon behind him. This then prompted me to go home and look at Youtube videos of people launching boats - There are some real gems there boys if you get some free time.

I didn't have the heart to tell him what he's doing to his tranny. And yes, the rear bumper cover has to come off. You can then see from the inside a square shape exactly where you need to cut out.

I'm average build. 5'10'' 175 lbs. I think my next pair of work shoes will be high tops. Currently I'm wearing low cut "Shoes for crews" at work.

Well, I finally have something to report on this thread.

I'm home from work early today because I slipped off of my step stool while doing some power steering repairs on a Super Duty, and rolled my left ankle.

You have no idea how much it sucks to drive a manual trans car to get home after something like that, but but I made it and now I get to watch tv with my ballooning ankle in ice for a while.

For some reason, it seems my ankles are my weakest link. This is like the 3rd or 4th time this has happened in the last 10 years. At least I know the drill though... After a day or two of ice, my Chiropractor will be able to make it 'pop' and almost immediately thereafter it will regain full range of motion without pain.

OOH look, it's turning purple!!!

For clarity:

When I said I've had a few of those, I meant a few oil leaks identical to the picture in the first post... Not a few with the crankshaft bouncing around.

If you actually find one with the crank bouncing around, don't expect a new low pressure pump to fix it. Make more sense now?

I've had a few of those, and I've found just replacing the low pressure oil pump cover gasket won't fix it, but a new low pressure oil pump usually does.

I had a customer request an Egr/cooler delete since I was going to be in there anyway doing cp head gaskets an an oil cooler. He said from everything he has heard on the interwebs, doing so would make his truck more reliable.

My response was:

"yes it will... You know it, I know it, and Ford knows it, but It won't meet emissions standards anymore. As a Ford dealership technician I have to look at the big picture, and honor the vehicle and the way that it was built by Ford, thus I'm unwilling to do anything that will defeat an emissions system. If you want ARP head studs though, I can at least give that modification my blessing."

He actually respected that response a lot, and took me up on the head studs.

As I see it, the government team was simply unable to verify the concern at this time. Granted they put a lot of time and money in to trying, but it's really no different from when we NPF something... It doesn't necessarily mean there is no problem, it just means we can't verify it right now. I think our transportation secretary should consider that before making such definitive statements.

It doesn't seem to be working any more anyway. Thanks for the help though guys, it was fun while it lasted.

Thanks guys.

After I gave my deposition and provided photos and a detailed report they really didn't bother to fill me in on all the details, but from what I understand he lost in both attempts to sue somebody. First he went after ESP for denying coverage, he soon realized Ford's lawyers were much more prepared than his (thanks to my report). Then he decided to try going after my dealership which also failed apparently. The hillarious thing about the whole deal though, is I kind of smelled something fishy about the whole deal even before I took it all apart to find the carnage, so I got him to authorize 10 hours of teardown in the event that his warranty didn't cover it. Well they didn't cover it, and he paid 10 hours to have me turn his truck in to a pile of parts. Then he let it sit on our lot for a couple months, during which time it was broken in to and had an expensive aftermarket radio stolen. Then he had it towed to a competing dealer where he paid them $15 Grand (1k more than my estimate) to have his engine replaced with a reman complete. According to his warranty history, this isn't the first time he needed a complete engine, but it is the first time he had to pay for it himself. I have very strong suspicions that this was intentional because he just wanted a new engine... It seems the warranty inspector agreed.

For those with Oasis access, and even better CUDL, check it out: 1FTSW21P55EA00648

I need some help fellas...

A total liar asshole is currently trying to sell his truck on craigslist. I don't want him to know why it's happening, or who is behind it, but I want his Craigslist ad to be flagged as prohibited over and over and over so as to deprive him of any free advertising.

I've already done it with both of my home computers so my IP's won't work anymore for this mission.

Here is the ad: CLICK HERE

You probably want to know why I hate this guy so much. It's because 4000 miles after I did head gaskets on his truck, he did some work of his own. During his work, an air filter clip somehow made it's way in to the intake and ended up destroying the engine. He tried to blame my workmanship from 4000 miles before as the source of the problem and even tried to sue my dealership. He knew full well it was he who lost the air filter clip, because when it was towed back to the dealer with a shelled engine, the missing clip was replaced by tying the filter housing together with a piece of wire - not exactly typical of any workmanship I would do. I stumbled across this ad and decided to do everything I can to mysteriously stick it to him any way possible.

I wouldn't contact him because I don't want him to know about the conspiracy, but by all means let his craigslist ad have it boys

No cam signal to PCM after already replacing sensor and harness? How rusty is your engine block? Any chance there's enough rust on the block to prevent the CMP from having a proper air gap?

CLICK HERE About half way down this post for a picture from Keith to see if it may apply to your situation.

I just got another one...

I'm seeing a DPFE style trend developing.

My mind can draw the most interesting parallels when I start drinking early.

Excellent... More labor ops for me

It's too bad I actually went through all the motions. It sounds like this may be the 6.7's equivalent of the DPFE if you know what I mean.

Thank you sir!

I even used Oasis quick start and it didn't show that tsb for my code

Well guys, I have one in right now for this code. PPT leads to a NOx sensor, but our parts guy can't seem to find it.

Anyone know the part number for a NOx sensor???

Now do the power opening systems course