Jeff_E

I've always just asked my parts guy. They seem to have some special info in their computers that shows such options. Though I only ever sell the heavy duty fan clutches and alternators anyway.

I did not know that... I sure hope that means the dealership assumes all liability if I miss something on a multi point inspection. You know, since they get the money for the inspections, they should assume the liability.

How much do the dealers get by the way?

The ones I'm forced to fill out for free you mean?

There are internal injector failures that can cause oil to be injected as fuel. We discussed it recently in this thread:

CLICK HERE

Is the valley dry? If not, you may have a hairline crack in the blue cac tube that attaches to the turbo and only leaks under boost conditions.

I've had one F series 6.0 for this that got new heads, and a bunch of 7.3's which got new cups.

The explanation I heard is that the torque increase resulting from the extra fuel they inject allows them to change the transmission shift schedule such that there is a net increase in fuel economy. I think it was our FSE that told me that but I don't remember for sure.

+1 for shop Wifi

I'm responding to this on my personal IDS laptop in my toolbox side locker over the shops wifi connection. I have FMC Dealer up all day. This site and the SLTS shortcut are high on my favorites list. Also my dual wireless IDS, which automatically prompts for updates, can be wirelessly connected to the vcm while simultaneously downloading a calibration file from Ford or having a FMC wiring diagram or pin point test up without disconnecting from the VCM.

And unlike the shop owned computers which have a websense filter, I can keep myself entertained by playing Mafia Wars, looking at porn, shopping on Ebay, and Hassling Rex.

I wouldn't have it any other way.

I actually feel better about it now, thanks Cetane.

That truck that was supposed to show up yesterday never did. Maybe it healed itself.

Here's a link to one on ebay:

7.3 injector tester

OTC #310-141

The revised PCED symptom chart leads to this as a possibility for oil consumption. Here are the instructions:

"Recommended Procedure

Note: Testing of new fuel injectors prior to installation in the engine will cause inaccurate test results.

Note: Before removing the suspect fuel injector(s), remove the valve cover(s) and monitor the fuel injector spill spouts for oil flow while the engine is running at idle. The amount of oil flowing through the top of the fuel injector is directly proportional to the amount of fuel flowing out of the tip. If low oil flow is observed at the top of the fuel injector, fuel flow out the tip will also be low providing a rough idle condition.

Item Number Description

1 — Calibrating injector adapter

2 — Calibrating injector O-rings

3 — Fuel injector tester

4 — High-pressure oil port

5 — Fuel port

Remove the suspect fuel injector. For additional information, refer to the Workshop Manual Section 303 Fuel Charging and Controls.

Inspect the three external fuel injector O-rings for wear, cracks and cuts. The O-rings may be repaired separately from the injector assembly. Install a new O-ring(s) as necessary.

Note: A vacuum pump with a minimum 0 - 28 in Hg gauge is required.

Note: Inspect the three calibrating injector O-rings for wear, cracks and cuts. Install a new O-ring(s) as necessary. The calibrating injector O-rings are the same O-ring utilized by the 7.3L fuel injector.

Verify the fuel injector tester and vacuum pump as follows:

Item Number Description

1 — Calibrating injector adapter

2 — Fuel injector tester

3 — Fuel port

4 — Fuel injector retaining bolt (2)

Install the calibrating injector adapter into the fuel injector tester and make sure it is properly seated. Use the fuel injector retaining bolts from the engine and torque the retaining bolts to 13 Nm (120 lb/in).

Connect the vacuum pump to the fuel port and apply 25 in Hg of vacuum. Monitor the gauge for 6 minutes. Verify there is no vacuum loss. If vacuum loss is present, inspect the fuel injector tester, fittings, O-rings, vacuum hose and vacuum pump for leaks. Repair as necessary and repeat the test.

Item Number Description

1 — Fuel injector

2 — Fuel injector tester

3 — Fuel port

Once the tool function capability has been verified, lubricate the O-rings of the suspect injector with clean engine oil. Install the suspect fuel injector into the fuel injector tester. Use the fuel injector retaining bolts from the engine and torque the retaining bolts to 13 Nm (120 lb/in).

Note: Some fuel injectors may exhibit minimal vacuum loss. Vacuum loss less than 1/2 in Hg is acceptable and does not indicate a damaged fuel injector.

Connect the vacuum pump to the fuel port and apply a minimum of 25 in Hg vacuum. Monitor the vacuum gauge for signs of vacuum loss. If vacuum loss is greater than 1/2 in Hg within 6 minutes, the fuel injector is damaged. If vacuum loss is less than 1/2 in Hg, leave the vacuum pump connected to the fuel port and GO to step 6.

Item Number Description

1 — High pressure oil port

2 — Fuel port

3 — Spill port

Monitor the vacuum pump while connecting 689 kPa (100 psi) of regulated shop air to the high-pressure oil port. If the vacuum loss is affected by the presence of air pressure, the fuel injector is damaged. If no vacuum loss is present, GO to step 7.

Check for air leaks possibly indicated by whistles or continuous bubbles at the spill port indicating the fuel injector is damaged. If noncontinuous bubbles are present at the spill port, the fuel injector is not damaged.

Vacuum loss indicates internal injector scoring which may cause a rough idle or low power concern.

Vacuum loss that is affected by the presence of air pressure on the high-pressure oil side indicates internal O-ring damage. This O-ring separates the fuel from the oil and may contribute to excessive oil consumption.

No vacuum loss on the fuel side with an air leak from the high-pressure oil side (top) indicates a damaged poppet valve or seal.

Repeat steps 4 - 7 (calibration of the fuel injector tester is not required) for the remaining suspect fuel injector(s) as necessary.

Tools Required

Lubricants Item Specification

SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W20-QSP WSS-M2C153-H

Fuel Injector Tester

Vacuum Pump"

~Source: PCED

If the fuel isn't turning black in the filter housing it's probably the injectors themselves allowing the oil to be injected and burned in the cylinders. Ford even sent out a 7.3 injector tester that checks for internal leakage... With that many miles, if it needs any, it gets them all at my dealer.

I flashed my first one this week, it took about 20 minutes. Truck had 1800 miles on it without any problems, but after the flash it now has an intermittent bogging and stalling concern. It's coming back Tuesday. I sure hope this doesn't end up like the 6.0 with countless re-flashes to resolve the problems caused by the previous reflash.

Cetane, you listening?

The following is a dramatization of actual events that took place at my dealership last week. It has been edited for content, as well as entertainment value, and formatted to fit your screen. The names have been changed to protect the guilty.

Had a Midas tow in a F350 that they already had the FICM installed. I charged them a half hour to program it.

As for making a house call to an independent shop, I would never prostitute myself that way. If they want me to look at it, they can tow it to me and pay the same as everyone else. I didn't go through all this training to help some under qualified people steal work away from me or my dealership. I will make an exception for government fleets / military ect.

Check the wiring at the IPR for chafing on the speed nut that holds the field coil to the valve.

I had wireless issues with 67... So bad that I thought something was wrong with the wireless card so I bought a new one.

The next software update and my problem was fixed.

Island blue? you're pegging the gayosity meter, Jeff.

 

The wall will never be teal (at least not to me... but I don't watch homogardenTV)The wall will never be island blue... at least not to me... It will be blue or it may be "kinda" blue.

 

We are true men.... if we are describing a colour, the key modifiers are "kinda", "sorta", "a little like" but we can save our asses if we can include food, beverages or dog excrement in the description. Anything else is going to increase your !?@#%! quotient.

 

 

It's kinda like a dark metallic periwinkle that sparkles like my dog's shit after he eats a bag of glitter then Jim

Technically it's "Island Blue" but if I had said turquoise you would have given me even more shit.

My wrist may be limp, but that only makes it sting worse when I bitch slap you.

Daily Driver: 00 F150 5.4 4x4 ext cab Short box in Teal

Weekend Toy: 76 F150 360 4x4 reg cab long box in Red

Well I haven't seen a cracked head on a 5.4 yet... But last week I had a 2.5 Ranger with the same symptom, and it had a cracked head. I hadn't seen one of those either - but it happened.

I won't quote the remarks in Cudl or give any customer information, but As you can see from running Oasis the last repair consisted of EGR/Oil cooler replacement with turbo cleaning and new unison ring ECT. The total bill was around $3300, and ford gave assistance along the lines of $1600... Which they didn't have to do because the vehicle was out of warranty. The customer was still unsatisfied and felt Ford should foot the entire bill. There were several communications between the customer and Ford on the matter, and one of those times the customer hung up on the Ford rep after swearing at him. The last report looks like it's from some bystander who called in after seeing that sign.

I don't know about you guys, but if it were me, and Ford paid nearly half of a repair bill on a vehicle out of warranty, I would be happy and thank them for it. No good deed goes un-punished I guess.

As far as Cudl access goes... Much like Mike, I too have my tentacles into things I'm not supposed to. In this case it seems the customer wants the world to know their story. As a professional I will protect their identity anyway.

Nope, It has to connect in series with the 7.3 Engine harness on the truck you're working on. If you don't use the proper connectors to make your tool they won't connect to the vehicle.

You could invite Rex... Pretty please

If I had a source for those connectors I'd build a bunch more and sell them to you guys... Slightly cheaper than the Intermotive one

Topic has already been covered:

CLICK HERE