Jeff_E

I pulled the down pipe and it was dry. I pulled the hot cac tube and it had a somewhat normal amount of carry over oil in it. I pulled the up pipes and they were dry. I pulled the turbos and separated them and nothing out of the ordinary there.

 

The only explanation I could think of is that the oil is entering the cylinders and being burned as fuel. It seems kind of unlikely as you stated it runs fine, but now that I think back I did have a 6.0 one time that ran perfectly well, and while resealing a bedplate I noticed a wrist pin retainer in the oil pickup tube and a really deep groove in a cylinder wall from the wrist pin. It's amazing the kind of damage that can be compensated for with modern engine control systems. Perhaps with your trucks history of injector concerns you have a slightly melted piston... One bad enough to cause oil consumption, but not bad enough to cause drivability concerns.

It's not advisable, and my understanding is that anytime one of the bolts is de-torqued the head gasket must be replaced. I would first road test it and monitor EGT/EOT to determine if it needs any cooler(s) as well, If it has higher mileage it is possible that the oil cooler is at least partially restricted. Then I would lift the body, pull the heads, clean them, check them for flatness, reinstall with new gaskets and studs, replace any needed coolers, clean the vgt components, pressure wash radiator fins, and reassemble. Probably in the low to mid 30's for time.

First things first fellas, What symptom is the vehicle exhibiting? Do you actually have a no start condition due to low ICP, or are you just air testing the HP system after the injector replacement just to make sure everything is ok?

 

The reason I ask is because if you are just air testing the system for the heck of it after a repair, it is common to get a false leak there due to the fact that the upper injector oil seals won't seal properly until oil is applied under pressure. It's possible that nothing is even wrong with those seals, and I even had my butt kicked this week chasing a similar perceived leak issue in the same area from an air test... The problem is that I convinced myself that there must be a leak and let the hissing noise at the injectors lead me into taking apart all kinds of stuff that had nothing wrong. Mine was a rare HP pump failure and I made more work for myself than I needed too. I'm not saying this is necessarily your situation, I'm just trying to save you from going through what I did.

I would be fearful of a kickback if I replaced the pump right off the bat. If it were me, I'd just do the gasket. If it dies afterward on my road test, I'd have the writer open a new repair order so I could get paid twice for doing it twice. Good luck.

I've seen a few TR sensors on 7.3 trucks cause a surge. Check your Trans Range pids and make sure they match up with actual lever position.

Someone told me the GM units use a ceramic unison ring. Anyone know if this is true, and if so, would the ceramic one fit in the Ford turbo?

Ahhh memories

I dont remember any creeper issues, but I dont use one very much anyway.

Jeff:

 

A bit off topic, but how was the ceramic tile floor to work on, as far as tools, steel wheel jacks, and cleanup went?

 

I'm curious. I'd like to cover my home and shop floors with something super durable like that....

 

 

I prefer the tile personally. Not only does it look great and make the work environment just seem happier, but it cleaned up well too. We had a "Zamboni" style floor cleaner that would run through every night and worked really well with the proper soap. The tile we had was pretty tough and we would sometimes have steel jack rollers going across it while supporting the front of a vehicle that was being pushed in with the old John Deere for whatever reason ie" broken front end parts ect. Certainly they aren't indestructible... If you drop a 6.0 cylinder head from waist height, you'll probably end up replacing a couple tiles, but that's no big deal. Our maintenance guy went through and replaced some tiles every spring. The only real down side to them, is they seemed slightly more slippery than cement when oil/coolant was spilled on them. I'm sure you could shop around and find some more textured tiles that would alleviate that concern though.

Unfortunately that dealership closed and is now a LA Fitness. Now I work on concrete with old peeling paint. I really miss that shop, we had a good group of people there.

I've done 4 or 5

I think about 6 extra body bolts, then just the filler neck and 1 square electrical connector behind the rear license plate.

Also if you have illuminated running boards you will need to unplug them too.

It's really not that bad, if you can do a pickup, you can do an Excursion.

97 now

Rex has one

I voted!

Yup, the first 2 digits indicate the truck was originally shipped to a dealer in the Cleveland area according to my book.

Dealer Special Order/District Codes:

 

~On Edit photo is blury, let me know which code you have if you can't read the picture and I'll let you know which district originally ordered your truck.

It was stated in 08-4-7 the reason for the updated tube. The tsb has since been superceded by 08-16-13

Nice to know!!! did you do this cab on or off?

+1 on that, I had one with a sticky VCV and would intermittently set a P0088. A new HP fuel pump fixed it.

I've used the newer style without any issues in 03 trucks before.

Aaron... You sure are passionate and knowledgeable about your bacon, thanks for enlightening me.

Real bacon is awesome. "Canadian bacon" is called ham here, and no, it doesn't surprise me that those pesky Northerners in our big back yard would attempt taking credit for its invention by renaming it.

Well, if your only asking about IAT2 variables- Carbon build up on the thermistor definately comes to mind as a variable, and there isn't another air temp sensor post turbo for the PCM to compare coherency values with. But to speak more broadly...

If your ICP sensor shorts out there isn't another sensor to verify High oil pressure and provide feedback to the PCM to control the IPR.

If your oil sender fails there is no redundant oil pressure sensor to validate lube oil pressure at the gauge.

If your MAF sensor fails there is no way to accurately measure air volume. Surely the TP and MAP could be used as speed density inputs much like they are on older gas engines, but it may not be accurate enough to meet current emissions standards-which is just as much a part of our job as just making them run.

If your ECT sensor fails there is no way for the PCM to reliably determine engine temp, it could look at EOT to get a general idea, but a restricted oil cooler could cause a very inaccurate reading and affect fuel control.

If your CKP fails you will lose your RPM signal on a 6.0 even with a working CMP (had one of these this week)

If your AP sensor fails there is no way for the PCM to determine driver demand.

If the WIF sensor fails the driver won't know if there is actually water in the fuel.

If the EGR internal position sensor fails, there is no way for the PCM to know egr position... Though it may at least be able to determine whether flow is occurring with the use of IAT2

If a wheel speed sensor fails the ECU has no way of knowing the speed of that wheel.

If a TPMS sensor fails the ECU has no way of knowing the pressure of that tire.

If the OCS system fails the RCM will be unable to make a firing decision for the passenger air bag in the event of a collision.

If your PSP sensor, or ACCS fail, the PCM won't know to kick the idle up to compensate for the increased load.

If the visctronic fan clutch internal rpm sensor fails, the PCM won't know fan speed.

If a parking aid sensor fails, the system shuts off.

If an optical sensor fails the automatic head lamps won't work.

If the in vehicle air temp sensor fails, the EATC will be unable to maintain the commanded cabin temperature.

If the sensor inside the electric vacuum pump fails, the pump won't know to shut off and eventually burn out rendering the ESOF hubs inop and the climate control stuck in defrost mode.

If a door ajar switch fails, it will cause all kinds of problems for SJB strategies... To say nothing of how much the dome lamp and door ajar light will piss you off.

I could go on, but this is enough to remind me why I love my 1976 F150 so much - It don't need no freaking IAT!!!

Uh oh, I have never filled one out. But I do type good stories.

Oh Larry I'm so sorry to hear that. My thoughts and prayers are with you and your family.