cbriggs

I had one doing exactly as you describe. Bring it up to high boost and it would blow coolant out of the secondary cap. It was mysteriously loosing coolant out of the secondary side for a while, then it progressed to that. New cac fixed it.

I've had a few valve covers do that same thing Leon.

How far apart did you have it? The 12's were the most common ones to lose main bearings. I have had a few act a lot like this. Run it till it dies and then try to bar the engine and see if its tight. Also now that you have run it and circulated some oil cut open the oil filter, and possibly take a sample from the oil pressure sensor hole while cranking.

I'm working 3 days a week right now, splitting the week with another tech that has a family to provide for. Getting lots done at home though with 4 days off each week.

Check out freedom brothers on you tube.... Pretty sure its the same guys. Wow is all I can say.

If parts are unavailable through ford they will pay to repair temporarily or with outside parts as long as the parts are certified automotive parts. If the summit racing ones are actually ford parts it is a no brainer.

We use motorcraft engine shampoo from a (205L / 45gal) drum. Works great.

Yeah there's no way. How could it possible figure out which one is where?

100% agree Leon. Couldn't have said it any better. I welcome the 3rd party warranty, fleet management and insurance companies to check the times on our estimates. We strictly use Mitchell prodemand for our labour times, or in the odd chance they don't have it posted, then its warranty time + 30%.

I have seen some plastic sending units crack around the nipples where the fuel lines connect, but i'm sure you would have noticed that when you had the tank down. If you can put some clear fuel line at the inlet of the hfcm and see if there are bubbles in it that will tell if you have a leak on the suction side. A leak on the low pressure side should show itself rather quickly. I assume you are not getting any fuel in the oil?

I have seen the cracked nipple on top of the sending unit multiple times. About half of those were not evident until after touching an unrelated part of the fuel system, usually fuel filter replacement.

I have seen the screen in the reservoir get plugged up and cause this, and also have seen the plastic liner slide in the pressure lines and cause all sorts of restrictions and weird noises.

Hahaha. That's a new one. Glad you figured it out.

2nd the plugged oil cooler. The coolant flow is reduced to the egr cooler causing the small amount of coolant that does make it through to boil in the cooler, causing the brown color and horrible smell. If left the egr cooler will soon start dumping coolant. I've seen some like this run for quite some time, others rupture the cooler long before the coolant starts to stink.

Just a thought Mike, when it won't start does it fire and stall, or not fire at all? If the LPFP fails to run at key on they will usually fire a bit, or run for a few seconds and then die.

After a cold soak do ECT, EOT and IAT 1 & 2 all match? If it is an NTC thermistor as temp goes down, resistance goes up, so resistance in the circuit will show as low temperature. ( I can't open wiring diagrams on my home pc to verify, just brainstorming...)

Based on the nature of how its acting it sure sounds like the contacts in the relay are going bad. Might be worth connecting a testing breakout to the circuit somewhere so it could be tested during the failure without disturbing anything. You could also use it to power fuel pump manually and see if that makes it run. You would think it should set fuel pump primary circuit codes if it was high resistance or open. We just had a similar concern on a 2019 e350 rental motorhome. PCM would randomly go offline. It has been at 3 dealers, twice concern went away during testing, once got a pcm, and then ended up at our store. This time it was fully dead. Load testing pcm powers revealed only 2 volts at one of the pcm powers. Touching BJB made concern come and go. Ended up having a broken internal shunt in the bjb.

Long time ago a shop I worked at had a tekonsha unit that was a 12" x12" aluminum box with a 30' cable. It had indicator lights for all lamp functions, a volt meter for the charge circuit, an ammeter and a voltmeter for the brake circuit. We opened it up one day to find 4 trailer brake magnets inside. It was essentially a whole trailer in a portable box.

I change a lot of these throttle bodies, but have never had one full of oil.

Interesting. Young guy in our shop was messing with one of these, that had knock sensor codes, and also 5 of 8 coils were arcing to ground. It got new plugs and 8 new coils. I never made the connection between that and the knock sensor codes. Customer denied any repair for knock sensor stuff, but it may be fixed anyways.

The 2017 and up uses an ultrasonic sensor that actually measures the level in the tank.

By the freeze frame it Sure seems like the block heater is plugged in or it has an espar / webasto heater running. Soak time would be handy to know here. There was a reflash years back to prevent a cel and P012f when block heater was used overnight.

I've changed a few tanks for level sensor concerns.

Also inspect the intercooler for blown off ends.

Just cracking the exhaust isn't enough to rule out a plugged cat. I know..... Need to completely unhook and get the back pipe out of the way. Or do a back pressure test.