Bruce Amacker

I honestly think that the 5.7/4.3 and 6.5 diesels are the reason diesel passenger cars will never become popular here in the States until a complete generation of people (who remembers these) dies off. It's a shame. 30-50% of passenger cars overseas are diesels, last I saw it was 1.5% in the US, and forget trying to find a light truck overseas without a diesel. As for pattern failures and engineering bombs, I can't even count how many there are. It's a sad commentary on American engineers and bean counters and the reason Asian imports took/have such a stronghold in our domestic market. The only thing good about the Asians is they forced the domestics to build a much better car over the last 10 years or face going out of business altogether. (Sounds strange coming from a guy who drives a Toyota made in the US?) It seems like the pattern failures of the 90's have gone away (or at least lightened up). OE fuel pumps that wouldn't make 60K, power racks, fuel injectors, intake gaskets, etc seem to be less common. Let's not forget head gaskets in 6.9s, we did so many of those that I stocked them.

My first thought was EBP also. Is the tube clear?

Regarding the compressor wheel, was there any indication of where the dirt came from? Regarding the bearing failures, IMO the turbo is the first to complain when there's a lube oil failure. I wonder if 15w-40 would make these turbos last longer, or there's some lube oil problem. Regarding repeat turbo failures on 6.7s, I've heard of more than a few from my students that have had multiple turbos replaced on the same truck. I wonder if there's been an issue with the reman company. Does anyone know who is remanning these units?

I've seen techs from 500 miles away attend classes locally because of lack of availability in their area......

Air in the fuel or not properly bled, IH has a TSB on it somewhere. Air sits under the plunger, the oil hits the intensifier piston and it comes down too quickly blowing the tip off. I had a big problem with this in IH (DT) gensets in the UK a few years ago traced to custs running the gensets out of fuel. I feel your pain, this is not good.

Ditto on the injector, saw the exact same complaint with several new ICPs, harness, FICM and PCM. It failed the buzz test and was a shorted injector. Run the buzz, it will probably bail out. Unplug injectors until it completes the test.......

My bad, flat rate reading. I used to make my own up using these terminals, I can't remember if it's .156" or .180" diameter: http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Product.aspx?pc=SSLC-180 http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Product.aspx?pc=SSLC-96 PS Walt: If it's hard starting hot, it's not the glow plug system.......

www.car-part.com shows 4 of them (junkyard search engine)

Keith, that's IDI, this should be DIT. Try this, page 10: http://alliantpower.com/sites/alliantpower.com/files/managed-media/application-guide/2014/apg_0314_ford_en_preview.pdf

I know we've covered this before and I've posted this before but I don't feel like looking for it. From my notes: n5C3Z-12224-A $55.34 nIH 2501105C1 $12.10 nNapa EC89 $15.99 nAlliant Power AP0021 And I'm sure the prices are old, too........

Nice job, well done! A student recently showed me how he does it with a Mig- put a washer over the stub, puddle it into the stud/bolt, and then weld a nut onto the washer to extract it. He did four while I was teaching a class on a 5.4. He showed the the removed stubs, it took 10 minutes per stud.

I'd be less worried about the HP fuel test and more worried about a seepage leak, but I think it would be a small risk. I don't see the relationship between used lines and the HP test at all. You "could" put it together and run it with the valve covers off checking for drippage if you wanted to waste a bit of time.....

Saw this on another site: I've got one better- I was doing an IH class at a facility in the deep south and saw this wiring job. Hey, it sure would be nice to have a radio on the back of this packer. Let's put a 110v inverter under the RF seat. And we'll run the wiring in a safe way down the side of the truck: And connect it to the boom box in the back. If anyone rubs that 110 plug, they're gonna get lit.

218, or for that matter, 230F oil temp won't hurt an engine. IH prints 250F max oil temp, and Valvoline says 260 for dino oil and something higher than that for full synthetics. I think Mobil told me 275 for short times is max for Mobil 1. I researched this heavily a few years ago because I built an air cooled stroker and it would creep up to 260F EOT at high speeds. A bigger oil cooler fixed it and brought temps down to the normal 220ish range. Air cooled engines WANT oil temp over 200 as a minimum, and I feel most engines should run over 200 to boil the condensation from the oil. I have a capture of a 6.0 with a restricted oil cooler doing 233 EOT on the highway with a spread of 45F between EOT and ECT. FMC says 15F difference max between EOT and ECT, I use the old number of 25F max. BTW, EOT means nothing at idle, low speeds, or around town. EOT won't creep up until 10-20 miles at highway speeds, and the higher the better to see what the EOT actually stabilizes at. Depending on what your ECT was when the EOT was 218, it is probably a normal condition. IH uses 230 EOT as the spec when they measure oil pressure on a VT365 (6.0PSD). From OnCommand VT365: Regulating Valve: Pressure, low idle (min @ 110 °C (230 °F) oil temp.) 69 kPa (10 psi) Pressure, high idle (min @ 110 °C (230 °F) oil temp.) 276 kPa (40 psi) Discharge pressure (2,500 rpm) 483 - 621 kPa (70 - 90 psi) End clearance (inner and outer rotor to housing) 0.02 - 0.08 mm (0.001 - 0.003 in) Radial clearance (between outer rotor and housing) 0.15 - 0.28 mm (0.006 - 0.011in) Thermostat Type Balanced pressure, wax pellet Minimum recommended coolant operating temperature 71 °C (160 °F) Start-to-open temperature, 0.381 mm (0.015 in) stroke 87 - 91 °C (188 - 196 °F) Full-open temperature, 8 mm (0.315 in) stroke 104 °C (219 °F)

Gary, did you check STFT and do you remember what it was? Just curious........

I've never trusted the big Magnehelic gauge. They're probably accurate from the factory, but after being shop handled a couple of times I'd rather use a water manometer. Simple to make and use and never inaccurate.

Not only are you in our thoughts and prayers, but we all wish you the best of luck in your battle. Keep your chin up!

MS and Windows does nothing but piss me off regularly, too, but we're stuck. No auto/truck mfr makes Mac software that I know of. The biggest thing that makes me mad is how the software "engineers" move shit around in each new version of (any) software for no apparent reason at all. It does nothing but create confusion.

If the timing is too high it will be loud and rappy, if it's too retarded it will be a dog with no power, IIRC advance is turning the top of the pump towards the driver's side. I remember a special bent 9/16" wrench.......... Good Luck!

Blip the throttle and take it quickly to top gov speed and let it snap back to idle. As the engines winds DOWN pay attention to how it feels- if it's a miss it will be smooth here, if it's a balance problem it will shake on its way down as well as on its way up. Do this several times and you'll get the feel for what I'm talking about, I can ID an imbalance very easily this way after many years of doing it. You'll think I'm nuts, but I've balanced many engines by feel using a stack of washers on the PP. This all came from imbalanced Chevy SBCs in the 50's and 60's where a TSB had you put a clip-on weight on the flexplate and move it around until the shake went away. Many times I put a clutch in (or whatever) and balanced it in the shop sitting under the truck behind the FW with the boltholes numbered, moving a stack of washers around, with one of my guys in the cab starting and revving the engine for a couple of seconds, then shutting it off and moving the washers. It sounds hillbilly as hell but I can get rid of 95% of an imbalance within 10 minutes using this method. Good Luck! Edit: IIRC, cracking the line loose on a cyl with no compression will still cause the RPM to drop because it retarded the timing because you're dropping housing pressure (or something silly like that) by cracking the line loose. If it "revs down" smooth indicating a miss, I'd use a temp gun or water bottle on the ex manifolds to find a weak cylinder.

Swap #5 with #3.

I know (second hand) of a couple of guys doing the same thing, I don't think it's all that unusual. Generally they say they use good used ATF from tranny flushes but not discolored fluid from burned trannies.

From what I remember, yes. The ASD closes for a few seconds at KOEO and then opens, it does not close again until the PCM sees a crank signal from the CKP. I'm thinking bad PCM also. Good Luck!

I think you're asking if there's a STC fitting on the HP pump outlet tube, and the answer is no but there is a QD fitting that can leak if it's an early engine. Pull the doghouse, there's an Allen plug on the back of the pump cover you can pressurize the HP oil system through, and ground the IPR return wire to close the IPR KOEO if you don't have a scan tool. Or pull the VCs and crank the engine looking for leaks, that's what most of our local dealer guys do. If the ICP is in the RF oil rail it should be an '04 or later engine. Check your VIN and ESN, don't go by the EPA date on the valve cover, post or PM me your VIN and ESN and I'll tell you what you have. The 2003.25 F model did get the 6.0 engine which is virtually the same long block.

The cost of processing the ULSD is the primary reason in my view, and yes, gas and diesel both average nearly double what we pay in Europe. The swinging difference in the price of diesel vs the price of gas is what mystifies me. It's $.10 different right now here but commonly is a dollar. What gives?