Bruce Amacker

I turn 59 in a few days. I sold the shop 15 years ago to teach full time, the best thing I ever did. I got healthier- my back felt better, my feet felt better, and my mental attitude improved. Fortunately I don't have any direct job related injuries even though I've been wrenching since age 17, I still wrench part time in my hobby shop because I enjoy it. My back is bad not only from wrenching but a car accident as a kid. The heavy parts in truck repair take their toll. Overall I consider myself very fortunate as many of my tech buddies have permanent injuries. I think the biggest problem at my shop was stress- keeping 3 techs pointed in the right direction, handling the customers and parts was about all I could handle. I didn't have a writer but did have a secretary. I sympathize with you guys- it's a tough job and mostly unappreciated, especially in a FMC store. If you're doing 12 hour days I'd suggest you cut down and pay attention to your body more. Good luck,

I've not heard of a CKP rust jacking but that doesn't mean it can't happen. If I were headstrong about fixing this truck I'd change both sensors and overlay (or replace) the harness. Don't cross the wires as they are polarity sensitive, it will run but run funny. Years ago I had a 7.3 that did weird things because of a bad CMP harness. Using a scope I proved that the harness bled voltage from the turn signal wires into the CMP circuit. I disassembled and inspected the wires to see no damage or issues, and as an experiment put polyloom over the CMP wires, which fixed it. Looking back I obviously should have replaced the harness but the fix worked and the driver was a cheapskate. I knew the guy and the truck was fine years afterward. Does the video work through DTS? I changed the YT from Private to Public, it should work now.

I shot this when doing a class a couple of years ago at a major pump shop. The truck started off as an intermittent run problem with codes (I don't know which) and eventually turned into a no-start. I remember they had quite a problem doing diag on it. Could yours be rust jacking of the sensor? I might monitor AC output from the alt or unplug it and see if the problem changes. Bad alts do weird things. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DWaR70feMc&feature=youtu.be 6.0_Powerstroke_loose_crank_reluctor.mp4

Keith, I agree with everything you said. Do you do anything to the wall like running a ballhone through it? I might do that to break the glaze quickly. Slightly off topic, I just tore down an old air VW cooled engine where the rings weren't seating. This engine sat for years (decades?) inside a garage, I freshened up the exterior (tune-up, carb) and ran it on the run stand. Somewhere about the 6 hour mark it started pumping oil badly through one or more cylinders. Compression had dropped 30psi from my initial readings. Upon teardown this engine looks like NEW inside- .016 ring gap (meets new specs), jugs look like new with the factory German hone marks, zero bore wear, .000" out of round, everything looks like new. Internal/external items on the engine all show extremely low mileage, I'm guessing 10k-30k max. The chrome rings wouldn't seat for some reason. I've heard of this before with chrome but never experienced it. It'll go back together after a ball hone with cast rings, which are more forgiving on bores. Does anyone know if Ford uses chrome rings? I'm assuming they do.

When I had the shop and was forced into a quote like this, I added 10% of flat rate for every year the vehicle was old. That means double the 11 hr book time. If you think you're gonna fix a 10 year old truck in flat rate time, you're out of your mind.

After breezing through the CTB, a couple of comments: I'm glad they separated the SCR and DPF so they can be replaced independently, but where is the DOC? No mention of it at all that I can find. Aluminum heads and 4 head bolts per cylinder are kind of scary. I don't know anybody else dong that. I'm not fond of the HPFP at the rear of the engine. For me, the jury is still out on belt driven cams on a diesel. Diesel people don't like to fix oil leaks and if the belt gets wet...... It does look like a Bosch system, though. Back to a low fuel pressure switch rather than a sensor. More special tools than I expected. DEF filler still looks like it's next to the fuel filler. (Huge mistake in my opinion). It should be under the hood. Does anyone know if you use IDS or FDRS on this engine?

Been out of town- When we do this test in class, I always say to "check your work" while the test is running. That means open the door or turn on the interior lights while you're running the test, the reading should jump up 1-2a and then back down after the BC sleeps......

Or borrow a meter and check a known draw, like a 194 (or LED) bulb and compare it to yours. I have LED interior bulbs in one of my cars that draw 30ma. Or it looks like you're using an 88, put the red lead in the MA port (next to the A port) and see if you get the same reading. I think MA goes up to 2a (2000ma).

PS I'm sure Ford has taken this into account, but what about the CAFE points where when you sell X number of econoboxes it offsets the bad MPG of selling X number of big fuel hogs? Or are they counting on (or have insider info) the EPA relaxing CAFE numbers? There's a lot here that doesn't add up, like we don't have all of the information. I guess we'll just "stay tuned".

I question how good of a move this is. The economy is strong right now and fuel prices are reasonable, pumping sales of SUVs, trucks, and other low-MPG (comparatively) vehicles. It's possible that they could make this move and if the economy tanks (which it inevitably will) or fuel skyrockets, Ford will be caught with their pants down and a poor selection of eco-cars to offer. Their sedans will be limited to the Mustang and one sedan which is not even in production yet? Wow, I don't see the reasoning here. I'm certainly no economist but this is my opinion.

A lot of ambulances and fire equipment I train on are plugged into shore power when it's parked because they know there's too much draw and it will run down the bats. See if this is the case......? Anyway, I'd like to know if this is a normal situation on late Fords. Something tells me it isn't.

On the last page of this PDF it calls for a 2016 Transit to have a 70 amp hour battery: https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2016/16_Transit_SB.pdf A similar PDF shows the F150 to have either a 70 or 80 amp hour battery. 70/.178= 393 hours, which is only 16 days? Kevin's idea is a good one, too.

Wow, 178ma after 24 hours is way too much in my opinion, and I assume these are bone stock trucks without added aftermarket BS. I know you're pressed for time, in a perfect world you'd isolate stuff and find out where the draw is. I have a feeling if you talk to Hotline you'll be educating them rather than the other way around, but that's probably where I'd start. A couple of quick tests would be to use an amp clamp around the alternator wires (one at a time) looking for draw and do a voltage drop across the fuses. A fuse with a 100ma load on it will have a vdrop of a few thou of a volt. 178ma can be picked up by most DC inductive clamps on the battery cable, BTW. Good Luck!

Keith: Are you allowing ample time for all of the modules to "time out"? I've done this test hundreds of times on a variety of cars and trucks teaching our electrical troubleshooting class, and many vehicles take minutes or hours for the modules to time out. Some Chryslers are a couple of hours to get the TCM to clock out and come down to 50ma or less. I commonly see 100-200ma for 30+ minutes while waiting. PS you can do the math using the amp hour rating of the battery to see how long it will last, IIRC 50ma is several months to run a battery dead. (amp hour/amp draw= hours.-------- A 100 amp hour battery at 50ma is 83 days)

Glad to see you're back at it and really happy to hear that your employer has supported you the whole time, that says a lot about him and you both. I can't recommend shoes but I can recommend insoles. I can't hardly walk without extra arch supports, so you might want to give that a try. I use Powersteps in all of my shoes, they add about 1/2-3/4" height in the middle. I'm in constant pain if I don't wear them. Shoe stores have them for about $40 or 20something on Ebay.......

Still not as bad as IH. They can have up to five different names for the same system, I've seen them use two different acronyms on the same page referring to a system. Bitch all you want, as far as service info and scan tooling goes, FMC has some of the best. PS Ford's scan software is way better than IH's on HEUI engines! They still can't get relative compression or cyl balance right, even after all of these years. Poor bidirectional too, and glitches out the wazoo........

Ditto on what Keith said and ask him more about where he fuels, also. Have you taken a fuel sample and let it sit in a glass jar? Put it in the freezer overnight and see if it clouds up. 12.2 MPH average is probably part of his problem, along with 35 miles per idle hour. Other than that, I can't offer any help. Good Luck!

I charged a scumbag $50 once for cleaning the trash out of his truck to do dashboard work. The owner applauded it and deducted it from the driver's pay.....

Yes, on my third Pico and love it. I've had no problems at all with compatibility or conflicts with Pico and IDS on the same laptop. They're support is terrific too, no matter who you buy from. Matt Fanslow (and others) are doing scope classes at Vision KC in a few weeks, it would be worth your time to attend. Call me anytime if you want to talk.

Bruno says it has zero physical compression, if the ex valves were stuck closed he'd still have compression. I'm thinking something more sinister, sounds like the rt VC is coming off for a look. Maybe a stuck/broken/bent intake valve? Put shop air into the GP hole? You'll probably still have to have the VC off to verify the valves are closed...... Other than that, I agree- if the ex valves are stuck closed it will pop back strongly into the intake manifold when the intakes open.

The trucks I've seen with a HV FICM also had a P0611 that wouldn't go away.......

1. Prep the cust for bad news. 2. Do a manual compression test on all 8, and anything that isn't even, do twice. Chances are that's as far as you'll get. Sometimes the RC test shows different numbers cold vs. warm, and your cranking RPM is a bit low, usually you see 245 on a warm 6.4, your picture above shows 216. Put a charger on it to keep the RPM consistent while you do the manual test. What's your altitude? That affects the compression number. CYA, when these things bite, they bite hard. Good Luck!

Ditto on all of the above, I've been using SSDs for years now and won't consider anything else. I recently bought my secretary a tower with an SSD and she loves it, my new tower has a 1TB SSD and a 2TB rotary for backup. Always buy more power and ram than you need so you can grow into a PC rather than growing out of it.....

Yes, that's not uncommon now. I recently saw a jig that D&W Diesel has for welding them back together after cutting, cleaning, etc.

Ford Parts Only, Inc. Dba Ford Auto & Bo Close 787-786-9180 787-786-9180 PartsVoice says these guys have the manifold...... Ford Parts Only, Inc. Dba Ford Auto & Bo BAYAMON, PR 00960-3141 Edit: Just realized it's in PR- never mind......