Bruce Amacker

Live possum, live mice babies in a nest, no live cats. Once had a vibration caused by a dead squirrel stuck in the tire tread, removing the squirrel fixed the vibration. Several dead cats over the years, usually preceded by a "thump" when starting. Pretty disgusting cleanup....

Disregard

That uses the round vertical controller and spade GPs, right? I think that system is quite troublesome (a PITA) and always updated them to the GP module behind the air cleaner and the bullet tip GPs. It's quite simple, the obvious components and female bullet connectors to crimp on the wires. Good Luck!

Mine has it in the hose, just above the coupler. Maybe it's serviced separately from Rotunda as a service part?

Probably drilling straight into the CEL bulb to destroy it. I have actually seen that done........

Agreed with all above, common problem years ago, but it's been a long time since I've seen it. I remembered it right away as being '99 F models.

Put a sample bottle of the fuel in the freezer overnight, if it gels/clouds/waxes up it's junk. It should come out of the freezer looking exactly as it did going into the freezer.

How are you looking it up if you don't know the year? Google shows it's the solenoid, and it ain't cheap.

What year? From my notes: Exhaust BackPressure Regulator (EPR solenoid; up to 98.5) (Ford) F5TZ-6C673-A Exhaust BackPressure Regulator Valve (Ford) (old F4TZ-9J460-A) (new 1C3Z-9J460-AA) (94-96; mounts on bracket above oil reservoir) (Ford) F7TZ-9J640-AA (97-up; may mount like earlier models, later in front of reservoir) Exhaust BackPressure Regulator Valve Tube (Ford) F4TZ-9D477-A Exhaust backPressure Regulator EPR solenoid, up to 98.5 (Ford) F5TZ-6C673-A Exhaust BackPressure sensor (Ford) 1C3Z-9J460-A (94-96; Mounts on bracket above oil reservoir) (Ford) F7TZ-9J640-AA (97, mounts like earlier models; 98 and up, mounts in front of reservoir Exhaust BackPressure Valve Actuator Seal Repair Kit (Ford) 2C3Z-9P466-BA (94.5-97) (Ford) 2C3Z-9P466-AA (98-02)

In addition, I'm always suspicious of crankcase pressure with a repeat leak. Probably too late to do a crankcase pressure test.......

From IH's OnCommand service info; DTC 525 IDM fault DTC 525 is set by the ECM when there is an internal IDM failure. When DTC 525 is set, replace the IDM. When DTC 525 is active the amber lamp (WEL for CF) is illuminated. I agree, but they get a lot of money for those, I'd double check powers and grounds first to sleep better. E-mail me for more service info. Also, the loss of throttle and 525 may or may not be related. IH has a LOT of problems in their bigger trucks with loss of throttle issues that are not related to the IDM.

For those of you who own 6.4/6.7 trucks (or drive a lot of miles on them), what are you guys seeing for steady highway temps loaded and unloaded? Thanks!

My shop is air conditioned and I'm not even down south. In the last few days I did a headliner, fuel pump and LOF in a '67 Vette, an LOF on my wife's Camry, and a headlight motor in a '63 Vette. On the run stand is a fresh 1600 VW motor I built with a couple of hours run time on it. On the burner is a '65 VW bus I'm restoring, it will need about 200 hours of mig welding to get it usable. None of it was flat rate, and rarely do I work on something with a computer.

Wow, yes, in the 70's, a non-turbo 6. You are old.

Yes, of course it does. If you'd have seen the bottom of my 30 year Chevy van, you'd not worry about some oily slime. I'll take that over rust in a heartbeat.

Fluid Film works well but is expensive, I've used motor oil for decades with excellent results. Shoot (used or new) oil from a rustproofing gun or a one quart sandblast gun on the bottom of the vehicle and it will never rust. Park it in the gravel for the first few days as it will drip if you've gone wild. I used to drill the doors (like the old days) and shoot inside them also, it guarantees salt will never take hold. I've known guys to pop the door panels and put oily rags in the doors for the same purpose. A light spray, especially on fuel/brake lines guarantees them forever. If you shoot it every November you'll find you only need to do it a few years in a row and the oil seeps in every joint and never needs to be done again. When I sold my shop 13 years ago it included my 1979 GMC G20 van, which was shot several times with oil years back. The buyer of my shop sold it a couple of years ago, parked it in the front yard and it sold in 1 day at $2500 with very little rust. A gun like this works well and is about $15. http://proformproducts.com/userfiles/images/produits/grande/26172.jpg http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Undercoating-Gun-for-Spraying-Undercoat-Chip-Guard-Bed-Liner-Sound-Deadener-/142010903308?hash=item2110826b0c:g:1cwAAOSwxndXTn82&item=142010903308&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-Ounce-Plastic-Bottle-fits-Universal-Air-Undercoating-Gun-Truck-bed-liner-/201518102516?hash=item2eeb6a37f4:g:JQkAAOxy4dNS2TB7&item=201518102516&vxp=mtr Good Luck!

There's no fixing stupid. Relocate.

Ditto on above, common on IH engines as well.

Cap the fittings at the MC and make sure the pedal is rock hard- zero movement. Cap the lines coming out of the HCU or somewhere in between to isolate where the air is. Sometimes I've had to 'thumb bleed" it halfway back on a long line to get a big bubble out. Good Luck!

A BS way to check PCM grounds on that truck is to look at the case ground pid, it compares PCM and FP ground levels, should read 0.00v. In addition to the other issues it's starving for fuel, MFDES is considerably elevated, showing it's starving for fuel, has bad injectors or low compression. Fuel command is way too high, it should be 12-13 tops at hot idle. Probably needs injectors, a wise tech would do a compression test at the same time to CYA. Pull the FF lid, suck the fuel from the housing, and fill it with Stanadyne Performance Formula or another lubricity additive (Motorcraft). Put the lid back on and immediately run/drive it, if it runs better it shows the barrels and plungers are sticking. I have screen caps showing 1.27ms FPW at idle on a '97 with VFDES at 15.1mm3 on a known good truck. Where are you in Ohio? I have a good '99 PCM, not sure if I have a '97 or not. I think they're wired differently.

Keith, have you noticed an increase in your home electric bill?

Damn, I was just there last week, I should have stopped in. Flew in and out of Edmonton, taught 2 weeks at GCL Diesel, and did 4 days in Banff/Jasper with my wife. Drove right by your place twice, I remember seeing it. Bought gas at the Shell station right by you Thursday about 7pm. Made a wrong turn off 19 and ended up on that stupid dirt road trying to get to the airport and return the rental car. Duh.

PN?

Injector spools worn and leaking?

Been doing it for years but I don't organize my music at all. I have probably 5-10 thumb drives ranging from 256mb to 128GB loaded with different music mixes or dedicated to a single artist. I play them on random. I have a TB drive at home with about 300gb of music on it of all types and occasionally switch up what's on the USB drives. I HATE radio (and TV) commercials, they assault my senses and intelligence. Even at the shop I had a USB drive player but it malfunctioned a while back and I haven't gotten around to upgrading so I'm back to radio there.