Bruce Amacker

Ditto on above, I keep a slight load on them too. I have a bearing life chart somewhere showing tapered roller bearings have a longer life with a slight load on them, but not too much! I do it by feel, slightly tighter than finger tight (after spinning, tightening, and loosening).

My local FMC trainer told me years ago if you gut the DPF on a 6.4 without a chip the PCM thinks the DPF pressure sensor is bad and will run regen constantly in hopes of keeping the DPF from plugging. This seems to agree with what he said. Yes, if it's a car lot or dealer selling a modified truck, not only is it a federal offense but they are also liable for putting all of the deleted stuff back on. I've heard horror stories about this.....

Could it have fit through the fill hole- sabotage?

OK, that makes more sense. What you're saying is to set the P012F the ECT/EOT have to differ by over 59F. I like those numbers better than the 6.0's 25/15F. Back to Steve's issue, I think he either has an air pocket or a bad stat......

Here's my experience: 1. When initiating a Regen the IDS almost always tells you that a regen is not needed, even when restricted with an active DTC. I just override the message and command one anyway. 2. IDS frequently kicks out of regen for no reason with a weird error message. (I have several of these messages stored somewhere) It seems these aborts are random and not related to pressures. I'll restart it after an abort and it will complete a long regen. 3. It runs a regen for a random length of time and finishes with either an error message or a completed message. I ignore either and determine if it needs another by DPF pressures at idle and WOT. I use .20/idle as a max high, I like .02-.05 at an idle and 1-1.5PSI at WOT for a clean DPF. 4. 6.4 quirk- you can't watch EGTs during regen, on 6.7s you can. Every other mfr I've run regens on you can watch EGT temps. (This is super important on MD/HD to let you know the DOC is lit. It's common to have a clogged aft injector or poisoned cat that doesn't light off properly and EGT12 only makes 800-900F with is no good. I've never seen a poisoned cat on a Ford and they use post-injection so this doesn't really apply.) When a 6.4 completes a regen, I usually jump right into the EGT PIDS and make sure 12/13 are over 1000F so I know the DOC and DPF are lit nicely, then watch them come down while idling. 5. IMHO it takes 2-3 regens to clean up the average restricted DPF, I idle the engine for 20-30 minutes after the last regen completion to complete the burn. As long as the EGT12/13/14 are above 600-700F there's still burn going on in the DPF. If you shut off the engine you stop the flow of oxygen, which stops the burn in the DPF. 6. On 6.7s they seem to have DPF_Soot_Inf and DPF_Load_Percent backwards. On other makes the soot % will go to zero and the load will come down, on the 6.7 the load will come down to zero (or sometimes a small negative number) (it commonly starts at 50-60% on a non-DTC truck) and the Soot goes from 1.5 or 2ish to .9 or something. If you think about it, Soot should go to zero after regenning and load should drop somewhat. IMO, Ford has the labels backwards. Sidebar- on the latest flash levels they took the DPF_Load out of the PID list and you have to go to the Regen screen to view it. WTF for? 7. Like I said earlier, it's common for the DPF pressures to go up after one regen when it needs several regens to get clean. Seen it many times. 8. Why Ford couldn't keep the PID list and restriction numbers the same between 6.4 and 6.7 pisses me off. It would be easy to fix this in a flash- make everything the same so you don't have to memorize two sets of stuff. Give us EGTs during Regen on a 6.4, too. I haven't played with a 3.2 yet so I don't know if the Aftertreatment PID list changed again on those. 9. I have tons of captures saved to back up all of this.

That's odd- the opposite of the 6.0 ECT/EOT standard(s). Wasn't that 25F revised to 15F? My query is "long road test and found at highway speeds ect gets to around 181 F and eot is 203 F." That speaks plainly of a stat that's opening too soon, unless this engine's cooling system has some quirk that I'm not aware of......

What makes you think the oil cooler is def?

The Cyl Cont screen looks comparable but the Relative Comp screen lacks easy-to-read percentage numbers per cyl which are important. I had an IQ from Nexiq on loan years ago and helped them evaluate new software written for the IH's. It's a great tool and has terrific hardware capabilities but they don't have the software up to speed, if you ask me. If you can't run a forced regen you probably aren't getting the DPF clean. With 5PSI at WOT it will need several regens to clean up, you will see .03-.05psi on a nice clean DPF at idle and 1-1.5psi at WOT. I've done hundreds of regens comparing before and after numbers and it usually takes a few to clean them up. Commonly the backpressure will go up after the first regen rather than down......... The IQ won't run a forced regen at all? See this old post for some captures: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/5119-64-aftertreatment-diagnostics/?hl=%2B6.4+%2Baftertreatment

If you had a real scan tool you could run a regen at will. PL IQ?

I worked on many tanker trucks over the years, mostly that carried Hypochlorite (sp?) which is liquid chlorine (similar to household bleach) for a swimming pool chemical company whose trucks we serviced. The delivery drivers would regularly forget to open the vents which would collapse the huge plastic tanks (typical tank 300-1000gal). I "rigged" up a wood 4x4 about 3' long with a chain to the towmotor, stuck the thing into the large opening in the top of the tank and use the towmotor to pull the tank back into shape. Did it many times and don't think it was a safety concern doing it. Compressed air would scare the f out of me, though. You could get tricky- if you filled it with water first, then applied compressed air, expand it a bit, then fill it with more water, then more air, etc. it would make it much safer. Another one was a DT466E with a leaking middle o-ring on the injector (HEUI). It pumped the contents of the oil pan (30 qts) into an already-full fuel tank, ballooning a 50 gal tank to nearly 60 gallons which looked like something from a cartoon. Let's see, 500-3000psi ICP applied to a diesel fuel tank...... I remember the driver calling in on that one and telling us what he saw. The best one was the Wallover Oil Co. driver who forgot to open the vent on top of the semi truck oil tanker trailer, it collapsed the tank and totaled the trailer. How embarrassing! it looked like this: https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.energyjustice.net/system/files/styles/large/private/-8e94a14fcd8acc07.JPG%253Fitok%253DZwIijexm&imgrefurl=http://www.energyjustice.net/tags/pollution&h=319&w=480&tbnid=MEh6czuMfw0PuM:&docid=S048zdjM-U9XAM&ei=QD-FVtPrD8iqeN2aquAG&tbm=isch&ved=0ahUKEwjTi4mDq4bKAhVIFR4KHV2NCmwQMwhBKBowGg These were all before digital cameras and cell phones. I'm old.

I checked in my junk, I have 3 known good ECMs but not sure what they fit, they are all DT466E from '97-03 IIRC. I can sell you one reasonable, too. Did you check what a new one costs, plus programming? It's huge money IIRC. I'm thinking there's a good chance I have a bolt-in-and-run-it ECM and flashing would be optional. I could send you all three and let you plug them in. Did you check powers and grounds to the ECM?

Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. I've had so many bad stats (both new and used) that I boil them in a 1 quart deep fryer to check the temp when they open using a candy thermometer (this takes about 90 seconds). A surprising percentage of new stats open at the wrong temp. This started years back when I got 4 new defective stats in a row- 2 from the FLAPS, two from the OEM on an IH. Boy, did I lean a lesson on that truck......

Not likely. See my edit above, too.

Has the Baro been swapped out yet? It shares VREF with the AP and can short intermittently, taking the AP with it. Not common, but certainly not unheard of. Also, look at AP V at an idle with a DVOM. When it goes under (IIRC?) about .38v the ECM won't recognize the signal and goes to idle only mode with a DTC. Sometimes all you have to do is drill the AP holes out a tiny amount, and twist the sensor in the (now loose) holes to get a tad bit more idle voltage. If it's a city truck you'll have more trouble than a long haul truck with the AP as it gets slammed back to idle constantly from the driver lifting and it pounds out the "up" stop in the assy. Do you have access to Iknow letters, like IK1200440, 1-27-2010? Also, '97 up have a "data driven dash" which means the gauges are fed off the J1708 bus. There's a chance something in the cluster shorted screwing up your 1708, so if it won't talk and your wave is bonkers unhook that. You're sure it has no ABS? If it's air the ABS will be on the 1708, if it's juice it would probably have Lucas Varity which does have a separate single wire bus (and usually a 9 pin connector). There are a pair of red and blue bus connectors in the dash behind the radio area where all of the 1708 stuff hooks together, I can post up pics if you like. Does it have any aftermarket devices on it like QualComm, maintenance minder, fuel manager, or GPS? Those will ride on the bus and drive you crazy, too, BTDTGTTS. Good Luck!

Lots of problems with AP sensors, the part numbers have all been updated and they have an overlay harness because of harness issues. Are you chasing a no-start/no comm, or an IVS code?

It is a '99 4700, in the subject header you have '03 which is what threw me. It will have the CEC (single box) ECM mounted on the top left of the engine. If you need a breakout box I have one, and I probably have a good tester ECM too. I wrote a book on this engine and know it well, attached are schematics. (There are some misprints in the skis, like the 1708/1939 bus voltages are missing, the ECM power relay wiring is reversed, and the IPR return voltage is wrong) Check power and ground getting to the ECM, these have huge pattern failures in this area like the fuse in the battery box, the connector plug near the starter, and vdrop across the ECM power relay. I'd check power at the ECM relay output pin first, then backprobe the ECM plug and check the rest. Pull the ECM plugs out and check for green death. What are you using for a scan tool? Good Luck! Here's some pictures from my book and training program: Remove the dust cap with a #1 Phillips: Check the connector for green death, and use a light smear of dielectric on it going back together: Remove the dust cover: Backprobe the connector: Check voltages: IIRC there are 4 hots and 4 grounds. 12.2 is OK because the key is on and the brake backup motor is running (juice brakes). Click on schematics below: EGED180-2 DTE.pdf EGED185-1 DT466E navpack.pdf

Typically when measured with a DVOM 1708 low will be .2 to 1v fluctuating and J1708 high will be 3-4v. Usually when I scope it the waves will add up to 5v combined. If your wave is as wacked as you say I'd check the powers and grounds to the ECM before anything else. Here's a J1708 from a later truck, it should be the same. Year/make/model of truck? They didn't build 4700s in 2003, it might be a 4300 or 4400. I can supply you skis if you need them. PM or post the VIN, or call me. Edit: If it's a 6 pin Deutsch it's not a 2003. If it's a 2003 it would have a 9 pin Deutsch and 1708/1939 busses.

Ditto on the gear. Find out what's in it.......

Are you saying these are all the same PN lifter? If so, I didn't know that.

Maybe it's only with an active DTC? (85% should have one)

Resurrecting last year's thread, and wishing Keith a great birthday!

Great info. Thanks!

How do you like that AutoSet? I have a manual Millermatic 135 I really like, I replaced a small POS Lincoln mig with it. I use it mostly for sheet metal panel replacement on old cars, I have a larger Miller stick if I need to weld heavy.

What's this turning into- a "show a picture of your box" thread? The box is a KRL1003 that's probably 25 years old. I recently bought the end cab off Ebay which was the wrong color and reshot it to match. Yes, the socket racks on top are HF, my daily drivers, the Snappy racks are in the drawer for when I need them. Oddly enough, the HF sockets do a really good job.

OMG, butterfly hoods. I hated those frigging things.......