Bruce Amacker

All hardware stores and Home Depot have vinyl hose on the shelf from 1/16" through 1 inch or bigger, $10-20 will get you a couple of feet of each size. Vinyl holds up for a while but will turn very hard and yellow with age. For short term testing it's fine.

The "E-Van" adapter works great on F-models, too. The head thread, HP oil (ICP) thread, and fuel test port in the FF housing are all the same thread, 12x1.5. On the pic above, the nut is just there for storage so the banjo doesn't get lost. Or get a spare HP oil fitting and grind the shell down a little so it doesn't hit the housing. M12-1/4F8OHGS Parker fitting Or MMFP121514R ¼” NPT female x 12mm-1.5 o-ring 1/8"NPT works better but I don't have the PN. Or spend $70 for an OTC 7443 You could buy a Rotunda 310-193, which has the whole deal.

Engine fan? Commonly delays 30+ seconds with a slow increase/decrease as it changes.

This probably won't help much but I'll make the offer. I have several 6.2/6.7 PCM connector plugs and can probably get you not only a pigtail wire but likely with the right colors. They are already disassembled, about 6-8" long and in a box. The down side is I'm out of town until next weekend and obviously the border could be an issue. When I was building my PCM demo boxes I spent a lot of time trying (unsuccessfully) to get those female pins, I hope your luck is better than mine. Everything I found was too big, IIRC the male is about .020" wide. Good Luck!

This was common in my salt belt. In the past I remember working one until it broke off and attaching a slide hammer to the shaft using a 1/2" compression fitting. I also remember dropping the pan and pump and beating one out from below. Good Luck!

Don't look at ICP when you have a HP issue, only look at ICPV. The PCM could be substituting a know good value (BTDTGTTS). ICPV should be .24v KOEO, get to about 1.25V+ cranking within 3-5 seconds. Verify this on your next hard/no start. Good Luck!

I use capsaicin cream on my arthritic knees........

Hey Guys: Who know this area best? If I'm driving from Edmonton to Vancouver and looking for the scenic route, is it best to go through Jasper on the northern route (Route 5) or through Calgary/Banff (Route 1)? I've already done the Jasper ice fields parkway and would do it again, but this time it looks like we'll end up in Vancouver. Thanks!

Seen it several times, check alt AC output, if the alt has a bad diode it will cause this. Typically at idle it will be around .02VAC at the bat or .05VAC at the alt. If it's above .1VAC I'd worry about it. Load test the alt if you have a carbon pile to make sure it's putting out the amps it's rated for.

Napa/Wix had a run of FF2s that restricted fuel flow and caused performance problems. Maybe these guys had Wix filters?

I got an 08 F550 with metal in the fuel system on a 5000 mile complete assembly reman. Service manager doesn't really wanna warranty it cause it's got off road fuel in it. I didn't find any evidence of water yet. But I don't have the hpfp out yet. Off road fuel these days is nothing more than regular ULSD with dye in it. Off road fuel has been ULSD for many years now and has no effect on an on road vehicle.

Although 7% dilution is not desirable, it is far from excessive, especially on a 6.4 as they are notorious for growing oil. In class I say it's normal for 6.4s to grow 2 or even 3 qts between oil changes if the truck gets a lot of regens, and Ford has stated that's not an issue. 15% dilution was kicked around as a normal/high number back when these were released. (That sent me for a loop as we were used to using 3-4% dilution as a max before regens came along!) Yes, repeated normal regens will cause this and even higher numbers. Like you said, do a LOF and calculate how much growth there is. If it is excessive then look for leakage under the VC or HPFP. When I see excessive growth from a leak, it's excessive, like there's no gray area. (quarts/gallons per week growth) Off the top of my head I'd say 7% is not to get excited about assuming it has some miles on the oil. At a 10mph average it's going to see a lot of regens and a lot of idle time. We have fleets with these that simply drain off the growth when it gets excessive!

I'd change the steering stabilizer even though it feels good. Is it OE or has it been changed?

Thanks, Keith, I'll take that under advisement. As for the FFs being vacuum/pressure, that goes back to 6.4 and 6.0 also. I've seen plenty of issues with earlier trucks caused by rolling the FF1 o-ring. If Keef says oil is the way to go, I'll suggest oil from now on.

Double check the o-ring on the primary FF- did you grease it on install? If it rolled it will suck air. Ditto for the water drain o-ring. Other than that the most likely is a cracked plastic sender fitting on top of the tank. A suction leak at either place will cause FF2 buzzing. FF2 is under pressure, FF1 is under vacuum. Good Luck!

Without ignoring your CAC issue, the first thing that comes to mind is why did they pull the cab? Second thing is did they do normal EGR cooler diag like pulling the outlet temp sensor and checking it for goop or being too clean? The third and very common issue is the front cover, I tell guys to pull the WP and likely they'll see the cover is pitted or rotted. Fourth is that if the rad/wp were leaking and spraying near the air cleaner inlet (is this possible?) or a loose band clamp it would also cause your issue. Most 6.4s with slow coolant loss are going to be an EGR cooler or front cover. Like L said, drain the oil, check for coolant, maybe get an oil analysis done (Napa/Wix/CQ 4077 or 24077, $14) and see how much coolant is in the oil. I hate guys that pull cabs to "do diag", it drives me out of my mind, they just f* ** themselves if you ask me, and shows incompetence. They need to diag the truck while it still runs and drives. Edit- They should have done a cooling system pressure test while it ran, too, to see if it built up abnormal pressure while driving. I tee a 30lb gauge into the degas bottle line and drive it.

Actually, the orientation is correct- in my picture the outlet pipes are horizontal. It's the chassis orientation that's messed up- it's vertical.......

I think so. At 25mph avg the OLM would probably have you at 7-8000 LOFs. Even 5k would be a safe overkill, especially with full syn.

Right, and only in the 250/350, for some reason they put flat flywheels in the 450/550. Ford put flat flywheels in when they had issues with them.

The DMF was used in '94-97 7.3s and had a very high failure rate- vibration at idle, noise, broken bellhousings, etc. Update was a flat flywheel setup from Luk (and others) that worked really well. Did lots of them in the day, but that was a long time ago. Luk had an engineering facility 2 miles from our shop so we did a lot of prototypes, custom discs and other neat stuff for them.

Park pawls are available in 1K/2K series trannies in MDs.

I was thinking loose injectors aerating the fuel rail, but it usually is one head, not both, and usually is not so selective to a cylinder.

I've seen chunkies stuck in check valves do really freaky things, too.

It sounds like you'll be doing mostly maintenance and light repair. If you get heavier into engine diag and driveability let me know, I have materials that will help.

NYPD has a fleet of 6.7 wreckers to tow illegally parked cars, we calculated they were changing their oil at 1400 hours and having frequent engine failures. One of their guys, Rob, is on this forum. Years ago I had a GM V6 car to do an LOF and nothing came out when I pulled the plug, I dropped the pan to find a black Jello type substance in the pan. When confronted, the lady owner said,"I change my oil all the time". Yea, right.