Bruce Amacker

Can you give me the exact dimensions of the S-curve in the threaded rod? That looks like it's going to be tough to duplicate.

I've had many over the years that seemed like a bad u-joint but could not prove it out, pulling the assy and having it balanced fixed it. On rare occasion it was an angularity problem, if there's and easy way (unlikely) to change pinion angle or carrier brg height you might try that. I was on an E450 airport bus the other day that I thought was going to blow the front joint, under load it felt like it was ready to come through the floor....... Good Luck! Edit: " I removed the driveshaft and ran the vehicle back up to speed and the vibration while more faint, is still there." IIRC the yoke centers the output shaft in the rear housing, running it without a yoke may allow the output shaft to run off center and shake. To replicate this you would probably want to put a bare yoke in the tail and run it.......

Make sure the dipstick tube isn't cracked.

Actually, that's just as fast with IDS: Pull up MAF and EGR command Maf usually reads quite close to 30 GPS at idle Using IDS command EGR wide open MAF on most will go to about 10 GPS, sometimes as low as 7 and rarely stall. If it only drops to about 15-17GPS it's partially clogged and a P0401 is coming. I've probably done this a hundred times now in class. PS It's wild that when the EGR is wide open it's recirculating 2/3 of exhaust and only breathing 1/3 fresh air.... PPS These numbers work on 6.0 and 6.4 as well to determine flow.

Sorry for the late response, DPF pressure must be 0.00 KOEO not to exceed 0.01. Idle pressure under .20, but I look the most at WOT in neutral, under 1.5 is preferred but I see many at 4-5psi where they need several regens to clean up. Have fun!

I'd be suspect of the aftermarker sender. If the driver is a techie you could run a wire to a DVOM in the cab and see if the resistance reading drops out when the problem occurs. In one of my classic cars I put 3 aftermarket senders in before finding an OE VDO which are out of production. I'm an OEM guy, learned the hard way after fighting way too many aftermarket parts. Man, the stories I tell in class.......... Good Luck! Sometimes this business sucks, but what don't kill you makes you stronger.

Neat tool, I like it. It looks like $20 worth of stuff from Home Depot and an hour with the welder........

Pickup I assume, and not a C&C? C&C would have the DPF ahead of this area. Any restriction problems? Did you check DPF pressures by chance? Did you run a regen and verify temps were good? I know it's not part of a 207F but this is what goes through my mind......

Allison has a driving stall test where you go to WOT while driving: 1. Warm up trans to normal temp (160-200F sump) 2. In an isolated area, using shift pad, hold either 2nd or 3rd gear 3. Hold throttle 100%, go to max governed speed 4. Use service brakes to bring vehicle to a stop 5. Record RPM with scan tool 6. Results will indicate if torque converter is functioning properly I don't know if this will help, but it's nice to know. I'd also try using the IDS to ramp up RPM in gear, maybe that will work too.

Any comments on the reddish color? Is this rust intrusion from somewhere or contamination? I can't think of anything that's steel in this system.......

Alldata shows it right near the RF headlight for CA vehicles. Attached is a picture. Good Luck! PS If your MOD sub is current and legal, they will fax/email you any/all OEM info no charge and quickly, usually in less than 30 minutes. I've done it many times. Same for Alldata, FWIW. nissan drl module.pdf

I'd suggest a solid state drive and as much RAM as you can get. My last Lenovo I bought off of Ebay new in the box.

So, does it block the oil supply passage? Thanks for the tip!

I'm pretty sure you need a SW and program, I did one a while back on an E-van. www.car-part.com (junkyard search engine) has SWs from $35.

Did you check fuel pressure? Your first paragraph is a perfect description of clogged screens in the tank sender. Edit: Update your page so we know where you are- are you in the salt belt? Rotted connectors do screwy things.

The PCM controls the starter so you will probably have a no-crank because of the lack of a DTR (trans range sensor) in the circuit. My memory is foggy but I think I did this once and jumpered the starter relay to run the truck. It ran fine with codes. There are some IDM communication faults that occur when you put the wrong year IDM in the truck, but they're ghost codes- no CEL. Are you chasing codes with no CEL? Does the truck start and run OK? Whatever your codes are I'd lean more toward IDM than PCM, FWIW. Good Luck!

Google is your friend: The first fits a 96 E-van 7.3 http://www.obdtester.com/ford-ecu-update/e_series/7.3l_di_tc/1996/F6TF-12A650-AXE The second is a 2000 F- 7.3 http://www.obdtester.com/ford-ecu-update/f_series_super_duty/7.3l_di_tc/2000/XC3F-12A650-KG The third is a '96 E/F 7.3 IDM, probably the same van as the ECM. http://www.fs1inc.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?cat=82&enginesize=215&make=96&q=F6TF-12B599-AA&year=129&gclid=CJ2L0avEsNECFQaewAodXgoEvA&ppcsclkid=Vtf7OxMIk8gQ&ppcstrkid=1041783037&ppcsu=xhg7f5djqenopihsgalfeht The last is a 99-03E/F IDM http://www.fs1inc.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?cat=82&enginesize=215&make=96&q=XC3F-12B599-AC&gclid=COjxtc3EsNECFcO4wAodjuQHHQ&ppcsclkid=XhGHiNCI64Q9&ppcstrkid=1041783037&ppcsu=xhg7f5djqenopihsgalfeht To my knowledge the 6.0 stuff will be plug and play for a no-start. The 7.3 ECM changed pin configurations from /97 to 98/ and are not interchangeable. The 7.3 IDMs will start and run with codes. Good Luck!

I've heard of issues with 6.7 Wix secondary FF causing restricted fuel out of the box...........

Compare manifold vacuum at an idle and 2000RPM, vacuum is usually the same or higher if the engine can breathe. If vac is lower at 2K than at idle, you probably have a restricted exhaust.

I know this was mentioned already, but have you guys seen the primary fuel filter? It's completely different and the FP is now inside the tank. Can anyone verify the body is aluminum? I didn't have a magnet with me.

A while back at a local shop a tech was trying to get antifreeze out of a drum using compressed air to start the siphon. The lid separated from the drum and killed him.

I agree, the first thing I check is the hours and avg MPH. 30+ is preferred, under 15 is a waving red flag. 20ish usually won't give trouble. I've seen many in my fleets under 10, the newest low is a truck with 5551 miles, 12,032 hours. Do the math.

IDM will also set non-CEL codes if it is does not have the proper program. No biggie. IIRC there is a big difference between PCM pins on /97 and 99/ trucks.

Ditto, great choice.

I had an air-over-hydraulic Walker 10 ton(?) when I had the truck shop, it was the cat's ass and I recommend it highly. Saves on the back and body. Get a 20 ton if you can.......