STROKER_T

Hilarious! My wife drives one,she's still laughing...

I love reading what u guys put in a subject like this,I've been reading it to my wife,she is LOVIN' it! I actually enjoy working on trucks,have been for a seemingly short 15 years,i could'nt even come close to putting it any betterthan what Kieth,Bruce and Tony have put it! My wife drives an 08 Hyundia Sante Fe,seems to be a great little crossover,I drive a GMC truck,go figure.. This website is the shiz-nit!

Thanks Bruno,he's supposed to drop it off tomorrow afternoon,cant wait to see what the deal is...

The customer that owns this truck is a really good one,so I'm wondering if maybe it might be best to have him come back in so that this bass-ackwards PID thing can be rectified.Good customer or not,this sounds like it could be a major safety concern,not cool. '05 F250,60k,no previous HCU problems up 'til now,and it's an assumption that makes me think it's an HCU problem anyway...as I have'nt seen this before,but surely it's not the only truck riding around with opposite front sensor PIDS. Which makes me curious,is this something that occured with a certain build date or batch,and what would be the least intrusive way of finding and fixing,really fixing the problem?

Yep,I agree with Jeff...there are a couple of harnesses that run right next to the L/F shock tower bolt,and the accel pedal harness is right there...probably rubbed through the wire insulation,since there is not much(if any)loom protecting it.Easy money,and you'll be the hero for fixing it.Let us know what you found,good luck!

Thanks for the ever so short insight Jim,always a true pleasure reading your antics...even though its reads as if your being a smart ass. Just kidding Jim,especially after understanding how much good sense you make...had to read into it a bit...

Thanks Brad,it was definetly a learning experience for me.From now on I'm gonna disconnect one side just 2 make sure the correct sensor is identified...

Hello again,was wondering if anyone has ran into this? Working on an '05 F250 4 x 4 with a C1145(right front wheel speed sensor)code,so I did the prelim checks on the right front,raised the vehicle,engaged the 4 x 4 so I could watch the front sensor PIDS while doing wiggle checks...now for the interesting part. I disconnected the R/F sensor at the mud flap,and sha-zam,the LEFT front sensor PID goes to 0.00V...never seen that before,its bass-ackwards! I then replaced the L/F sensor,problem solved? I'm guessing that maybe the pins at the abs module are switched,and that as long as the sensors are functioning properly,it wont cause any issues UNLESS its being diagnosed for a similiar concern.I didnt go crazy finding out WHY the sensors read opposite,vehicle is out of warranty,customer in a rush,etc. That was last week,ABS light has not come back on,what do y'all think?

I got one now,'06 F250 that the vent air flow switches to defrost only when 4 x 4 is switched on,and goes back to vent after a few minutes,have tried the smoke machine,which is an awesome invention ,maybe i'm not seein' it...but it seems like a vacuum issue. Also getting intermittent C1145 for r/f abs sensor,its been replaced,was wondering if the hub has an issue that relates to first mentioned,or its something to do with the rear axle carrier(tsb)? Anyone had something similiar? Probably shoulda started a new thread,sorry...

My girl is going to look at an 06 Escape tommorrow at a neighbor dealer,wants to trade out of her 08 hyun santa fe...the escape she wants has 69,000 miles,just wondering what problems,if any ,i can look look forward to or need to be aware of...thanks

Well said Bruce,I totally agree...that truck is gonna boomerang for sure,and I did inform them of just that. I take great pride my work,but my hands are tied for sure,cant wait for all these 6.0's to get out of warranty,makes life so much better at work.

The EGR cooler was leaking out of the exhaust port when I took it apart,it's got a new EGR cooler AND oil cooler kit. Management had me button it up and ship it,which I totally disagree with,but then again,I'm just a wrench. It was presented to me that as long as the coolant doesnt smell like fuel,it will have to come back when and if the problem presents itself. With Ford tightening up on warranty issues,we're not allowed to fix it right,we just fix what it came in for...case and point,the FICM M PWR reads at 30V at start up,and even when its warmed up never gets above 42V,setting multiple codes for the FICM and also needs a GPCM...

Dave,that was an incredibly informative post...

Hey guys,wondering if anybody has seen this...Ambulance came in for the infamous 'fuel in coolant' concern,after thorough testing and inspecting put 2 cylinder heads on it. Had it running today,noticed that when under a load after about 6 seconds it blows coolant out of the de-gas bottle like an erupting volcano...really. So I pulled up PIDS to monitor,and overheating is not the issue.Double checked all my work,even pulled the water pump to make sure there isnt an impeller cracked,looked ok. I have ran the engine,flushed and road tested,can make it "erupt" from bottle with no problem in gear while power breaking...any ideas? I am leaning towards a porous cylinder wall,had a 7.3 van ambulance with the exact same problem 6 years ago,turned out to be a small hole in #4 cylinder wall. Hopefully someone has had something similar,maybe I'm overlooking something...what sould've been a routine repair has turned into a nitemare,this is the 6th fuel in coolant concern in 6 months,4 of them ambulances

Yeah,thats what I'm afraid of...parts look up says see bulletin #3121 for more info,2 short to be an SSM? I just want 2 fix the damn truck,all this admin time is B.S.

Got a quicky here,working on an '04 F250 with ESP,needs head gaskets and an oil cooler.During the prior approval process it was brought to my attention that an updated oil cooler part#3C3Z-6A642-CA was to be used or the claim would not be paid...the old part# is AA,and this is the first I heard of this... My parts manager is not happy 'bout this,says he's got a shelf full of the AA's,no CA's in stock...what's the deal?Is it a better,longer lasting,more dependable cooler,or just cheaper to make? Was gonna post this on the parts forum,but....

Awesome movie,great quote...I am really missing the 7.3 days,been working on 'em since '90,only pulled 2 heads,and it was for oil leaks,never a head gasket failure relating to coolant...its a whole new ball game now,cant wait to check out the FORD Scorpoin 6.7,should be very interesting...exhaust above the intake? Really?

Anybody seen the oil manifolds (under the valve covers) turn a brownish color,like a rust build up,and the bottom side of the valve covers have a fine undercoating like layer? Looks like water was in the crankcase,but not to the point of milking...any ideas?

Hey,I wonder of anyone has seen where the lower o-ring on all but one of the injectos has been eaten away... I got one in today,a 99 F350 with 74K,that has fuel in the coolant resevoir.Pulled all 8 injectors,and #2 cylinder is the only one that didn't have a chewed up bottom o-ring.All other upper o-rings look fine,and the center part of the injectors are discolored,probably from coolant intrusion. The customer later informed us he's been adding marvel mystery oil to fuel tank...would that cause the o-rings to break down? I dont see any leaks at the injector cups as of yet,but the fuel has to get in the coolant through either the cups or head castings,right?

Thanks for the input Keith...worked like a charm

Looking for a little help in reference to bleeding the fuel cooler radiator that was just replaced. I somewhat remember that the fuel radiator(the one that bolts to the CAC)has to be tilted flat,and I did try that,only problem is there's not enough room to lay it flat with all the extra goodies on the front of this truck. Anybody got a quicker way?

When replacing fuel filters I change the bottom filter first,start the truck for 30 seconds or so,then replace top filter...works good,especially when u have a waiter. The banjo fitting setup on the fuel cooler works the best for me when the engine has been apart,real time saver...

I Like the avatar, Terrance...the problem with the 6.4 is there is no tolerance for anything but good,clean fuel...with the older ford diesels you can run transmission fluid and be fine,i used to prime the spin on fuel filter with ATF every day,but i ain't seen an IDI 6.9 or 7.3 in years...too busy doing warrany work on 6.0's and 6.4's,but its work, and i feel fortunate to have a job in these trying economical times... Had a 6.4 a few weeks ago,guy got some fuel with water in it,along with dirt and sand,took out the high pressure pump in a sandblast kind of way,came in as a no start.Insurance company picked up the bill,turned out to be a good job all the way around...$$$$$$$ Still can't get used to the 6.4,cringe every time i get one. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

OK Jim,u caught me being stupid,I'll try not to let it happen too often.What I failed to mention was that the correlating pins all read 55K ohms,not a reliable test,i got it... So I ran a power and ground side test with the breakkout box,everything checks out below .05v.The truck is still not fixed,waiting on a PCM,goin' out on a limb with this one... Did a pressure differential check on the heads,no difference on fuel or oil.Tried a filter housing drain and fill with cetane booster to check for worn injectors,no change.Injector analyzer shows weak injectors,some hot,some cold.It's got a rough idle,tried to sell injectors,customer only wants the idle fixed only,what am I supposed to do,wave a magic wand at it?Harry Potter has it so easy... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whattodo.gif