STROKER_T

Dwayne...what method did you use for seal replacement...does the rails need to come off...? Thanks

Hey yall...got a 6.4 here w/ an oil leak,it's the grommet seals on both rocker arm covers where fuel rail protrudes and HPP lines fasten,(part # W302463).... Has anybody seen trouble w/ these seals,both sides seems kinda odd,oil level is correct,no codes,truck runs good...31,021 miles Wondering how i'm gonna perform this repair,cab on or off,sould I painstakingly perform a fuel dye run test w/ valve covers off?

Ok....what if one were to remove the clutch disc along with pulley/coil...then reinstall just the pulley w/ snap ring....? Temporarily...of course...

Hey guys...got an '06 e350 w/ a 6.0(church bus)here...it's got a big 14,000 miles on it,the a/c compressor is locked tight,the clucth disc is WHITE... The church has got no funds for affording the a/c compressor,orfice tube,accumulator,and flush,and let's not forget labor... Is there a bypass pulley w/ bracket available for this thing and where could such a part be obtained in a timely fashion...they're gonna fix it,just not at this time.... Came in for a no start,a/c compressor is causal part,14,000 miles.... Thanks for any and all advice...

Bruce...thanks so much for the refresher...very cool I got an '01 here as well and tried the perdels method,as i've always relied on my ear as was mentioned...inj 2 is at 6%...4-6-8 at 2-4%...but as it warms up,#8 shows 4%...the others chill... So,I'm thinkin I got a 'stiction' concern....got all the signs includin 268,000 miles...customer swears he's got a glow plug problem,cause when he plugs it in the truck runs great,i explained to him about the injector stiction concern...not to mention it just left our top competitor after 2 months w/ same concern...now i got it...the customer is pissed and alot lighter in the wallet... p.s.- had no idea one can run a contribution test in gear on a 7.3.....

Any idea on how much a short block pays (warranty) in a 6.0 F350 4x2....? i looked in SLTS and didn't like what I saw ,surely i'm missing something...thanks

Brad,u'r tooooo funny Thanks guys for the input,after showing boss per manual that there is no listing for cam replacement UNLESS crankshaft is removed,i've now been instructed to try to obtain prior approval for short block .... Had some help with an FSA named Dan Garant...super nice guy,he spent a good bit of time w/ chassis ears and lots of revving of the engine,i kept hoping it would break good at that time just to simplify things...he came to the same conclusion that noise was in pass/rear of engine...way to go Dan.... Thanks again guys for everything,awesome i tell ya....not for nothing but there's a topic on IDS 66 causing VCM issues...jus so happened one of the guys flashed ANOTHER techs IDS w/66,guess what,VCM would not communicate....asked the FSA (Dan) about it,he ain't heard nada...nothing...zip...i was so proud to tell him how too fix w/ 64 reflash....got it from this website,a diesel mechanics go-to...abso-frigginlutely....

I'm one of 4 truck techs in this shop,w/ 2 diesel certified car techs next door...so yeah,we got warranty number issues,but it has gotten better...i suppose...the time lost on this job already is just ridiculous...and from the looks of the situation it suckin more by the minute.... Bottom line is this truck has to be fixed,and my motorhead boss says he wants a camshaft and lifter only replaced,apparently not realizing or caring whats involved to do so...looks like mucho o-rings and gaskets...and who knows what else till tear down is completed..,.

Wondered that myself...anybody know somethin on this...?

Yep,Michael...thats sorta what i was noticing,the workshop manual doesnt even have a removal for camshaft listed,except for a small portion in engine disassembly AFTER the crankshaft is removed....holy shit,that is not cool...at all. What a shit storm this is becoming....i don't mind doin the job at all,but for what it pays....not cool

Hey yall....got an 06 F350 (99,500 miles) here with an engine noise,a tick if u will....after all the exhausting hoop jumpin with Ford and finally given the ok to tear down,the noise concern has been isolated to the #7 roller lifter and camshaft lobe,the second lobe from the rear of engine...boss wants me to install 1 lifter and a camshaft....no problem,i'll knock it out....then I remembered i've NEVER had to remove a camshaft from a 6.0...or a 7.3 for that matter... So how far do i need to tear down for camshaft replacement...? I'm thinkin with rear engine cover removed along with branch tube and lifters out,the cam should slide right out the back....any ideas or advise is greatly appreciated,i'm on warranty clock time Thanks again,this is gonna be great....

Yepper...thats what i thought too Kieth...guy i work with is doing an '08 p/s pump,had me ask u'z guys if there was a way...i told him i didn't wanna sound like a dumbass,'cause it's apparent there is no such thing as a quick disconnect to this line(never has been),damage to line is most definetly likely to occur.... Thanks for the quick reply Kieth...u r da man

Ok...what the heck u gotta do to get the quick disconnect line out of the fitting on the p/s pump...? WTf?

The bubbles on this one are not tiny by any means,no leaks....low fuel pressure is 9 1/2 - 10psi at KOEO,and 4psi while running... No evidence of fuel in the oil,and hindsight tells me smoke won't work unless ALL fuel is out of system,woulda coulda shoulda smoked it at the heads before installing valve covers...maybe a hi-pressure problem...? Not sure yet,still testing....gonna run hi pressure test,any ideas or similiar concerns...?

Mornin DTS peeps...was wondering if it's ok to smoke the fuel system on a 6.4 to trace a leak... '08 f250 comes in,no crank...engine is locked tighter than a well diggers ass,pulled glow plugs,nothin...pulled oil pan,found chunks from the bottom of a piston,turns out #2 had catastrophic damage at piston pin area,pin and what was left of piston was lodged in cylinder wall...no burnt pistons,but piston orientation suggested crank twist/bind....this truck has only 28k on it,frigging ridiculous.... So I put a short block in the piece,very careful on fuel line replacement and torque procedure,but nevertheless there are bubbles in the time saving bleed tool hose,recycled 7 or 8 gallons while it idled,engine purrs,no issues yet...'cept for the bubbles... Thanks for reading this,just wondering the quickest,least intrusive way to find the bubble cause...what a p.o.s engine... Smoke shouldn't hurt the system,right...

Hey Greg,thanks for that...been wondering how that would go,especially on a 6.4 ambulance... ...Can't wait too get one in for an engine R&I...comin out the front sucks big time...

its fixed...delete if needed...

We got an '07 F650 box ambulance in that needs a GEM...IDS says it cannot perform PMI,because manual entry is required...wtf? ...is there a procedure for the F650's,pcm is cummins,have to do manual entry for whatever reason,any help? Windshield leaking is cause for concern...thanks for reading

Ok,got ESP approval for head gaskets...the egr cooler has been submerged in the sink for a half hour now w/30psi of pressure attached...i got NO bubbles,this truck had an oil cooler put on 20,000 miles ago,the egr cooler tested good then as well,according to the tech notes...the head gaskets definitely look like they have been leaking... Never had one jump up pressure on decel before...something new learned every day,will know for sure if it's fixed tommorrow... Edited to say EGR cooler did pass vacuum test...

I've got an '05 F350 in for what seems to be head gaskets... pressure and vacuum tests pass,funny thing is that when on road test for leaking head gaskets and pid monitor checks the coolant pressure jumps to 18psi on decel and vents (new cap installed for s&g's)....anyone failed the head gaskets because of decel pressure readings are higher than at WOT?.... ECT/EOT variation never exceed 8 degrees....has a 5th wheel hook up(of course)....

sent us a proto-type front cover for this one...it's got a small bafffle welded at the bottom of the water pump cavity,kinda of a 1" X 1" plate,if you will....i can see where it would slow the whirling effect of the coolant...

System has been flushed,holds good pressure,even road tested w/ pressure gauge,drove it hard,pressure never exceeded 11 psi....cap vents at 16... Just a quick note,you are gonna love this...somebody in Detroit advised that we no longer use the rad-kit vacuum thingamobob to fill the cooling system on a 6.4,they seem to think it may be pulling the rubber off the t-stats.... This pig is out the door (for now)...

So that begs the question,do u replace pushsods as a set? Is the tolerance build up issue the cause for cracks...?

Ok,while we are on the good inquiry of the valve bridges orientation... how many times have you seen the pushrods have stress cracks right at the center... Got an 07 F550 thats getting head gaskets only and at least 4 pushrods have abnormal lookin cracks....i roll 'em to check for warpness,looks ok,but theres alot of torque on them,can't be good...and when u try to order them they come shorter? I've often wondered if NOT setting the crankshaft dowl to 6'o clock could cause an issue as well,I've seen it done that way Dont mean to hijack the post,but it's related,right?

This pig got an oil cooler as well,some metal shavings in the oil and coolant,I'd bet money it'll be back like a boomerang is attached to it's ass....6.4's suk 2 work on in the cab