cheldmann

im sure everyone will disagree with me here but i have done one and 2 other guys have each done one by removing the flange with no problems and happy customers

no i havent, i dont have any pullers like that. i guess that would be nice but usually the valve and stem breaks off and stays down there too so couldnt really get a bite with a puller. i just break one side of the valve and it usually come right out then. i would say ive done about 10 and showed the other 6 diesel guys i work with the way i do it and so far havent had any problems with it.

lcf warranties are 3 year unlimited milage arent they?

i heard of someone doing it with a pressure washer, i would maybe do it with a hose thinking the pressure washer could damage it maybe. anyone else tried that?

just bust it up with an air hammer, just be careful not to damage the housing or get aluminum peices in the intake

im starting to think most of the prior approval is done by a automated response or a robot. i can write a book explaing whats wrong and what i did to diag it with every peice of info posible and they will come up with some odd ball question. or i can write the bare minimum and get an approval right away. but its allot better than when we had to do the "real time diagnostics" and talk to some weirdo on the phone after waiting on hold for a half hour each time. but we have started seeing allot more trucks out of warranty now. 6 months ago i didnt even remember how to do a customer pay job, i was so use to diaging and fixing it right away i almost forgot about writing up an estimate and waiting for an approval.

wont build any pressure without sync and no synce is why it wont do a rel compreassion so i would start there

it says nothing about it in the pced or pin point test, but if ebp is out of range it can throw this code.

i had one that had a damaged turbine wheel, the peices that came off the turbine wheel bent the tips of the veins over just a little so that when the veins were completley closed there was no space at all between them. do the egr air managment test, if at any time during the koer part of the test the ebp goes higher than spec that probly your problem.

i was told the reason some have programs and some dont is because they are all remans now. and depending on what part is replaced and what original part is stil in the reman ficm it will have a program on it.

i have heard a few good things. but to be honest ive never had problems with ford gaskets especially after doing studs. i had factory gaskets and studs on mine running 50 psi and they were fine.

Im just trying to save a few bucks. just asking if anyone knows of any other places to get them.

Anyone know a place to get replacement dually fenders? my price on them from work is about 550. I need some for my 03. I found metal ones on ebay, lmc trucks has fiber glass ones, and i have found a few places on the net that sell them but they arent direct replacement and other people have said they had to trim them and drill holes in the bed to bolt them on. Or does anyone have some they want to sell haha?

dont wipe it with a rag!!! the fibers will clog the screen too. never wipe anything inside and engine with a rag.

I have had hairline cracks on the inside causing them to leak before, probly over tightened

perfect. i wonder why the pumps kept going up on the onld cover? thats weird.

ok il have to check with the parts guys. thanks

Does anyone know if a newer front cover will work on an older engine. As far as i can tell the only difference is the water pump size which i need to change the pump anyway. I have an 03 and a cover off an 05, the part number for the new one is 5c3z. Just wondering if theirs any other differences besides the water pump size.

leaving the heads on i have the tool for it. its not rusted up or anything i was just wondering what labor times are because i usually do 130% of what warranty times are if i dont know what to charge. i had only done 2 cups a while ago under warranty so i didnt have a clue what to charge they guy and i just want to try to be as fair as possible.

Just wondering what i should charge to do all 8 cups and new orings and flush it out. cant find the warranty times to go off of. thanks

i think all you get is r and r, tear down, and replace short block. theres labor ops for all three and thats it, atleast all ive ever goten.

who made the decision to not warrany it? you or ford? we have put in for prior approval on coolers and gaskets before, told them about aftermarkets parts like you had on that one and they gave the ok to do it. our shop foreman doesnt want us doing anything warranty that may have a reason not to be warranty, but thats is to keep our numbers down. it also keeps our pockets empty. so i always let ford make the decision. that way its out of my hands and i probly stil get the job.

FML so you guys dont ever pull the shaft out and replace bearings or seals? i thought ive read several times that what they did at international. oh well, i think i found a kit from garret i just need a tax id to get it so il have to get my parts dept to order it. thanks

Its my truck. i have it completley disassembled and theres no play or wear on the wheels or shaft, housing is fine, cam moves freeley. Thats probly all they don to a chra anyway, half of them are bad out of the box here latley too. like i said all its doing is seaping oil a tiny bit.

Got an 03 turbo seaping oit from the exhaust side. Bearing doesnt have excessive play. Ive heard international has rebuild kits for these. called 2 dealers and they dont want to help cause its a ford. Anyone know the part number for their rebuild kit? thanks