Matt Saunoras

Could someone please clarify this for me?I have a 2015 F-350 cab and chassis here with a P257F like the TSB outlines(Ran oasis and the TSB applies). It appears to have the correct turbo for a cab and chassis truck. The part number the catalog lists is the BC3Z-6K682-B turbo, the TSB turbo is totally different.Are they having us actually change the style of turbo on these trucks or am I totally mistaken? edit - well I feel like an idiot. If I could actually read I would have known that the TSB only applies to pickup trucks.

I ordered the "expansion kit" which shows up in the illustration for the DEF components and it came with a piece of filler hose about 40" long. I need a hose about 5ft in length so that's going back. I did find another SVE bulletin about relocating a 2011 cab and chassis tank from the right outside framerail to the left inside. I don't remember seeing any cab and chassis trucks with a tank on the right side but it's been 5 years or so since they did this. The diagram shows the DEF filler hose going from the right outside of the frame, straight across the truck all the way to the left side. That would be one long hose if that's the case so I ordered one and we'll see tomorrow what it comes in looking like.

I pulled the turbo out on the last one I did. Sure seemed to make it a lot easier

The 6.7 EGR cooler TSB comes to mind. Couldn't count how many coolers I've done and not one has ever set a P2457 KOER. BUT if you didn't do the TSB for a P0401 and proceeded with normal diagnosis they'd kick the claim to the roof.

I've got a cab and chassis 6.7 here that has some dirt in the DEF tank from the hose coming off the filler neck inlet. The hose they are using now is non-OEM and appears to be generic clear rubber heater hose. I'm not sure if this hose is DEF compatible and I would prefer to change it along with all the other components I'm replacing. I'm not sure what grade hose is DEF approved but I found both Gates and Goodyear make specific hose for the application. Anyone have any insight or know where to locate it? I'm going to start calling around but I'm certain I'll have trouble finding what I want. Also it looks to be 1" inside diameter. Anyone know if that's correct?

I am bringing this up from the dead.A while ago I posted pics of the VT365 turbo I got in as a core from an F-650. What I wound up finding upon teardown was a badly worn, eroded compressor seal causing a nasty oil leak into the intercooler. The unison ring slot was egged out a little bit too. For the hell of it I picked up a GT3572VA rebuilt kit and got extremely lucky and snagged a very lightly used VT unison ring off eBay.I cleaned everything up real nice, media blasted the housing, vanes, ring and slapped some new bearings and seals in it. Since that day it's sat on my bench at work behind all my other pretty turbos.... Until today that is. I got to thinking that once I sell my 6.0L there's going to be no more experimenting because I won't have any way of testing them out. I don't claim to be a turbo builder and I prefer to try anything out before I sell it. I've done this a few times and it hasn't failed me yet.But what about the VT365 turbo? I had kicked around the idea of running on my F-250 but I was afraid because of how small it was, it would easily overspeed and possibly damage it. I'm to the point where I'm only going to have one chance to drive a 6.0 with a VT turbo.And quite honestly what a blast it is. You couldn't imagine how awesome this little turbo spools on a laggy stock 6.0. It's just gets up and goes. Granted it's going to run out of steam fast and I really didn't run it over 2000 RPM but honestly I didn't have to. The truck moved just fine in the lower RPMs. It was impossible to get underneath this turbo and bog.I ran the IDS turbo boost test and it made about 1 psi more MGP than all the stock turbos ever have at this elevation. My VGT duty cycle while cruising varies between 35-45% telling me that turbo needs to open up more than a 6.0 to achieve desired EBP. Otherwise it ran just fine, cruising my boost varied between 5-10 PSI which on a light F-250 keeps the lag away. Similar to how a heavier F-550 that's geared low seems to stay in a better operating range.Put about 45 miles on it so far too. I just can't get over how well this thing drives.

That's okay. Did anyone catch the post on the FMC boards about the 126 report going away at the end of this year? Dealers are going to be subject to "random" audits rather than a 4 stage warranty counseling process.

I'm looking at an 04 6.0 that definitely needs a turbo cleaning plus EBP sensor and pigtail. Also has a rotted away rear backing plate causing a bunch of noise.

I'm shipping my latest nightmare truck. Threw a rad in it and found the fan clutch wiring not cut but actually sucked into the blades keeping them from turning at all. Once I swapped the clutch out and put some more miles on it my ECT and EOT stabilized to a normal range. Also my cooling system pressure dropped down to 8 psi and stayed there for 25 miles. That's going to have to be good enough for now. Putting the correct grade and amount of oil in it helped a lot too I'm sure. Now that the air is all worked out it runs like a champ.

Those plastic cac boots suck. I upsell the metal tube version whenever possible. I've been burned by more than a few that had a small leak. Usually don't know anything is amiss until the air filter comes out

Had one that was on the corner of the intake manifold near the alt bracket. That was close though and easily duplicated Don't rule out the actual ICP sensor too, I see more of them bad on E-series than F's Here is the ICP chafe I had on a bus, I believe it was the brown wire Here is the smashed harness underneath the turbo inlet duct that Mike mentioned. It lays on that bolt head and slowly sinks its way down on. I add extra tape here anytime I'm in the area.

That damn truck was overfilled with oil by about 5-6 quarts. As hot as it was yesterday I can only imagine how frothed up and aerated it got after I pulled that big hill right before it died. It makes sense though, when I pulled the pressure regulator out I swore up and down I never saw so much oil come out. So I nailed that concern (maybe) and now I've got the lingering cooling system pressure concern. Built a total of 11 psi while running normally. No pressure spikes under hard throttle, dropped down to about 10 psi once I got back to the shop. ECT is running 200-205 all the time with EOT about 10-15 degrees hotter. The new rad and new coolant definitely helped it some. Not sure what I'm going to tell them yet. The truck already has head studs and some kind of welded up EGR cooler but that doesn't mean anything.

My IDS on a few occasions has pulled mileage from the last session onto a new session even though the vehicles are completely different. Hopefully this doesn't wind up causing problems with warranty repairs if they ever decide to look at our logs.

Getting killed by a high miles 6.0 auction truck bought by my best fleet customer. Rebuilt the whole front end, balljoints, inner axle seals, steering box, did rear leafs plus fixed a few small coolant leaks (suspicious). Found it odd that its here for all that stuff being they're quite capable of the work themselves. Whatever, fixed it the best I could and flushed the cooling system clean as a whistle. Driving it post repair, almost ready to let it go and it dies on me after pulling a long hill. No base oil registering on the IC so we tow it back to the shop with my old truck and a chain. Noticed it's dripping coolant again too. Pulled the regulator and its free but the oil is scalding hot and really runny. Pull the pump gears and they look not terrible but not perfect so I put a set in, pack it with vasoline and it fires right up. No idea what's going on but the coolant leak is the lower rad tank seperated from the core. It definitely wasnt like that before. Something weird is going on here but I'm not sure what yet. I'm waiting for a call back to see if they put whatever oil is in this thing. May not even be the right grade.

My guess is that's what happens when you jam a torx somewhere it shouldn't be and round it out.

It seems like every one I've put a hydroboost unit in for an external leak has awesome pedal feel after I'm done. Never put 2 and 2 together because no one has ever complained about it.

Leaf springs on a SRW F-350 with a utility body on the back. Never occurred to me the body is so close to the springs that the bolts wont come out. That was a fun interesting adventure. May have involved a few pole stands and a hole saw. I had that hot side cac duct o-ring fall out on me one time. One of those things you usually learn the hard way.

My XLT with D-plan pricing and the $4000 super duty rebate (if you finance through Ford credit) wound up being slightly more than $10k off MSRP. It was well equipped though. Obviously the more you spend the more you get off for D-plan. I'm with you, even though the F-150 would be plenty of truck for what I need it just doesn't do it for me. Have you ever been to the D-plan site? Under super duties it will give examples of MSRP vs D-plan pricing. You can also search dealer inventories for your area or anywhere really. Find a truck you like, give the vin to your sales dept and they can get you what your price will be. For example I searched a zip code near Washington DC and found a truck that was ordered at a dealer in Maryland. It was outside my extended inventory range but certainly not outside our range for dealer trades. My truck was showing in dealer inventory but in fact it was ordered but hadn't even been built yet. I got lucky and found a truck that was only 3 weeks old when it finally showed up.

It's an XLT with the premium packageSpent a good part of the day putting a coat of wax on it and cleaning the wheels with a clay bar. There was quite a bit of grime built up on them I didn't notice at first. Not anymore though. The plan for the 18s is to use them as my winter wheels. Since the tires are basically new they should be fine for a season worth of snow around here.

Thanks! I think they look good too.

Went and picked up those wheels and tires today. Definitely what I would call good shape, only had 12k miles on them. Then I made my way back to the shop to put them on. Surprisingly went off without a hitch. I was able to program the correct tire size, perform a "vehicle relearn" and clear the P160A. Put about 30 miles on them so far and they're great. Never even set a tire pressure light which I found odd. The tire training tool is locked in the parts room and I won't have access to it until Monday.

An early 2000s super duty conveniently dropped its rear driveshaft right outside the dealership today. I took that out while traffic whizzed by my head and drove it in the shop in fwd mode. Then looked at a brand new 15 explorer for an airbag light. Found a bent pin for the LF crash sensor in one of the inline connectors. No one said a word about it on the prep. Of course it's being delivered tomorrow. In my one bay is a 6.0 F350 that needs rear leafs and a steering box plus some other stuff. Gonna try to get that one done this weekend. Outside is a 6.4 that needs turbos.

I'm wondering if a set of current screw type rack adapters could be modified to work but with those you'd have a little adjustability. No hassle except the cutting and welding. I am going to see if you can buy them separately.

How much did they cost? That is quite possibly the greatest thing I've seen.... or may be at least this year

Always check the studs holding the master to the hydroboost. I had one break one time on a 6.0. Went all over that thing twice before I found it. Same goes for how many cab off repairs are done on 6.4s, it wouldn't be hard to leave a nut loose.