Matt Saunoras

The P0611 will set with an aftermarket 58v FICM. The highest IDS will read is 54.5v but manually checking voltage will confirm what it's actually putting out. I run a hot FICM in my truck, no issues in several years of having it. This pics a few years old, I've long since ran over that voltmeter

Mike my 06 is an XLT with minimal options. I'll check for the VSM connectors on it of I get a chance.

Is this truck an XLT by chance? If so there's a chance it already has all the wiring for the missing VSM. Besides that I'm not sure what it would take to program it but I know it is needed for RKE

I put the snap ring on the same way Chris does. Getting it off is tricky. I'm open for any better options out there

Wow, more turbo concerns?

Is this the 15 pickup turbo or are the cab and chassis turbos different too? I haven't worked on any 15s yet

The knipex look interesting. I found a 7" or 9" set that could possibly work, do you remember about how long the pliers were?

I use snap-on SRPC9000A. Slightly difficult to use but it's the only thing I've seen that works

Anyone need some PTO parts?

These turbos don't need any help failing

Got a pair in my 2 bays. Two twin white crew cab F-350s this construction company bought at the auction. 2011 6.7s with damn near the exact same crap wrong with both of them. They're getting front axle u-joints, brakes, calipers, rotors, and backing plates all the way around. Got a handful of bulbs to change and wire in new license plate sockets. All maintenance sold on both. Both these trucks have engine driven PTOs that they want removed. I've gotta pull one apart tomorrow and see what factory stuff is missing. I'm sure the factory fan bracket/pulley is missing.

I have had a few dusted 6.7 turbos related to the oval intake duct mouth being damaged due to installer error. I will snap a few pics of the most recent damaged turbo/duct if needed.

Mine's for sale. Can't claim no rust though, that's the reason I'm getting rid of it.

Getting busy here again. 4 outside waiting to come in. Trying to bang out a 6.7 cab and chassis turbo right now.

Probably yes. The only differences I can think of are the 03 pistons and cam are slightly different (but only for emissions reasons?)... and the upper oil pan has extra bolts holding it to the bedplate. I doubt any of this will matter as long as you use all the remaining stuff from the 06. I would swap in a new set of lifter guides at the very least.

I'll take an e-series 6.0 over any gasser on earth

Working on a 6.2L F-250 getting a front engine cover. The other guy on my side put a tensioner on it a few months ago not really noticing old one hole sawed quite a bit of material away. A lot more than just a pinhole oil leak. This truck is jacked to the sky also and that is getting old. Should be a few hour job that's kicking my ass. In my other bay I have another gasser F250 that we sold balljoints, brakes, basically everything is loose in the front end. This truck is oilfield garbage and it's more hammered than my brain. And we got a call yesterday from a local independent that wants us to extract a few broken manifold studs from the RH side of a 5.4L 3V F-150. That's fine with me based on what they chose to tell us. Didn't say anything about already putting a Dorman manifold on it, definitely didn't tell us that they already pre-drilled all 3 of the broken studs unsuccessfully accomplishing anything. It is not a pretty sight, I had another guy start the job so I could get to the point of extracting and when I saw that today I was almost sick. With 2 of the fucked up bolt holes right behind the spring tower there's just no way I can fix anything the way it is. It's going to need 3 threaded inserts and I'm not doing it unless it can be done right. Told the service manager I need to pull the cab and jack the engine up high enough to clear the spring tower....and honestly that may not even be enough so it's getting quoted a head just incase. Oh and we hired another guy this week. That puts us at 6 total in the shop now. It's a rat race and I'll probably still be working on all 3 of these fucking things by the end of next week.

Didn't even stick on the last ones I put injectors in. Pointless, just recorded them on the RO. Wrote them directly off the injectors too

No idea but the fuel filter and oil condition tell me it's A LOT. It's a pole setting truck

That's the right number

Telephone companies 4200 for some maintenance, batteries and a state inspection. Just under CDL weight so I can still inspect (and drive) it. 2003 with 8600 miles.

Can anyone confirm the part number for a VT365 fuel strainer? I know the primary fuel filter is the same as the 7.3 but I can't find the pump mounted strainer. Is it FD-4605? 4C4Z-9365-BA? I have 2 here for the 7.3 pick-up tubes but I don't know what they are actually supposed to fit.

Whatever is in this fuel is heavier than diesel. After running the pump and getting about 6-7 gallons out I started getting relatively clean fuel. Pulled the fuel rail plugs on the back of the heads (not easy) and flushed a bunch of crap out of the rails. Put filters in it, drained a ton of water/tank delam from the HFCM and it reluctantly started. Clouded the shop out but whatever it is doesn't smell like much and evaporated quickly. I have no idea.

Got this 04 F-550 sanitation truck in here. Won't start and they just want the bare minimum done so they can ship it to the auction. Cobbled together a working ficm, still won't light off. Took a fuel sample and it looks like milk. No idea what the hell is in this trucks fuel but it won't combust. Got the okay to drop the tank, clean out the lines, change filters and see what it does.

Well I finally got the old F-700 back on the road with a working speedo. I went on vacation 3 days last week, got back Thursday only to find out Blue Diamond never shipped the rotor, it's on backorder. So instead of taking any initiative and finding one my parts guy just ignores it, even though the truck is in one of my bays with the driveshaft out.Either way we were able to order a FUL21555 from International and it came in today. Much to my surprise the rotor and seal part numbers I found worked just fine. Sensor air gap was easily seen with the yoke out. I didn't even need the damn seal as I found out.