Matt Saunoras

I could feel it as I was tightening the injector down. Right as the top o-ring is supposed to start into the injector bore the hold down bolt would get real tight. Usually they get a little snug, then ease up as the o-ring starts into the bore. Then I could see the sliver of o-ring sticking up on the injector body. This thing was cutting perfect round slices off the o-rings. Couldn't begin to tell you why

Hand tools only. I use a small flex 3/8" ratchet that fits my palm nicely. Really I have no idea what the deal was.

This had me absolutely baffled and I really don't know what the hell was going on. Putting injectors in an 06 F-550 dump already made harder by the PTO I could not get #1 or #3 in without cutting the top o-ring while tightening the hold down. Never seen or even heard of this. Always used 15w-40 oil to lube the o-rings until right now. I must have cut 8 new o-rings on this head. Even stuck an old injector in and cut the original top o-ring. Brushed out the bore thinking maybe some rust? Nope didn't help, tried a little light grease? No deal. Finally Vaseline to the rescue. This has to be punishment for having a job that's been a little too easy lately.

Thanks for all your input guys. This truck has a crane on the right side and a generator + air compressor on the left. A lot of times I see an engine driven welder on the left side which seems to help distribute the weight a little better. Either way the factory springs aren't cutting it. More and more I'm thinking this is going to have to go to a spring shop to let them handle what they do best. I wouldn't mind figuring it out on my own but parts are the issue here. The local spring shop will not sell us anything allowing us to build our own pack. Sourcing everything on my own would be questionable at best and may cost more time than it's worth. The only reason I ask is it's a new fleet customer fed up with the typical large dealer BS. I will keep you guys posted though.

Does the crank break from seized main bearings or is this a seperate failure altogether?

That sounds like a good idea about stealing a couple leafs from a new spring pack. Do you recall if a longer centering pin or u-bolts were needed? I imagine so. I didn't think of it before but one of my good fleet customers has a new F-550 crane truck, perhaps I'll sneak down there and have a look at it.

Hey guys I've got a new 2015 F-550 here that's got a service body with a crane. The dealer who sold the truck tried to upfit the body themselves and it's pretty obvious they were in over their heads and didn't quite get the job done in the time needed. The truck was pulled out of there and brought here. The main thing I'm unfamiliar with is how to address the body lean from the unevenly distributed weight over the ass end. Basically it's sagging 3" lower on the right than the left measured from the ground to the top of the wheel well (tires aired up to max). I know I've seen trucks with extra leafs (or spacers?) added to one side but I'm not sure of the specifics or who would offer something like this. Even a heavier spring pack would be great but I doubt something like is available and I'm sure it's made on a custom basis. As far as OEM goes this truck already has the heaviest springs. Anyone know anything about what I need or what the norm is for how upfitters address this? If I'm going to be the truck guy I guess I should know this stuff. No better time to learn. My parts guy called a spring shop and they weren't much help. I'll only send it to them if absolutely necessary. I may have a few other questions about some of their other concerns too. (I have a 6 line RO with upfitter issues)

I got nothing. Waiting on blue diamond for my gear so I'm taking a few days off next week to go fishing. I guess technically I'm "on call". Hopefully they never call me

Not sure about the haze but the truck did have an up and down power balance similar to what you posted. Definitely get the compression gauge on it though. No personal experience but I have heard nightmare stories about aftermarket cylinder head castings cracking on places you wouldn't expect a 6.0 head to crack. The aftermarket castings are usually rougher around the edges and won't have any numbers stamped in the web around the valve train. That's the best way to identify them

I had a truck last year that had a crank trigger wheel that came loose and cause the most bizarre power balance I've ever seen. It started and ran okay but had a shake to the engine that was definitely not a misfire. If it is sitting there running a smooth line but not all contributing evenly I probably wouldn't think injectors right away. I don't really know though about your situation. Its a lot of work but I've swapped injectors before just to cover my ass before I say for sure this thing needs injectors. Yes they fail a lot in a 6.0 but if something doesn't seem right it probably isn't.

Also that 7.3 in my other bay is a weird one. Got towed in from our sister Lincoln store with a reman tranny already sold. They were diaging it for driveabilty and the tranny stopped shifting, overheated and puked some fluid out. I'm all ready to drag it inside. Check my engagements and much to my surprise we have forward and reverse. OD doesn't feel like 1st gear but whatever, manual 1 and 2 are present. Drive it in, rack it up, verified driving it up in the air that it doesn't shift. Grab the IDS, start a session. Right away something catches my eye. Main screen on IDS, transmission type says "Manual" This is where a phone call is placed to my old service manager who tells me the PCM was replaced for who knows what and its been doing that ever since. Got the old PCM off them, forced the correct calibration on it because it wasn't original either and drove the thing 30 miles. Now I don't know what gear this thing was stuck in but it smells like it smoked the fluid driving it around in a high gear. Dropped the pan, nothing concerning found, stuck a new filter in it and some new fluid but I may try a full blown flush tomorrow. What's the worst that could happen?

I played parts guy all day. Pulled up an Eaton catalog for an FS-4005-B, found the speedo gear called out as 21500. Called International, they told me its a Fuller FUL21555. Crossed that off the handy Ford/IH parts interchange and came up with 4C4Z-17285-BA. Ordered that and a seal from Blue Diamond. We'll see what shows up

I'm sitting under this 91 F-700 right now wondering what the hell I'm looking at. First off its still here for an inop speedo. Got a new sensor in, one that's adjustable and not a set depth. Just what I needed right? Wrong. Looking down in the hole again with a better view I see what originally hit the old sensor. The output shaft yoke. I pulled the driveshaft off and much to my surprise the yoke just slides back and forth on the shaft. What I was looking at in the sensor hole was not reluctor teeth but actually output shaft splines. I don't believe the output shaft splines are supposed to generate a signal for the sensor, it makes no sense that the yoke would slide back and forth on the shaft almost 1/4". I believe the reluctor wheel is just plain missing and it would, if present, space the yoke properly. Now I've got to try and find a wheel and rear seal.

Well some bad news about that center ball dust boot I posted up. I can possibly make it work, it's dimensionally similar to the original seal but it's not the same. The inside diameter where it presses onto the shaft is about .005" too large so it won't engage the lip on the shaft. I could probably glue it on but I'll decide that later. I need to do some more digging and maybe call a few driveshaft shops to see if I can find the exact seal.

A little late to the club but we got one in last night. Got to do the service on it today and drive it around a little. I am very impressed with the power this thing has, it runs great and doesn't feel like it going to careen off the road going around a turn (ahem e-series). The reason we have it is kind of funny. Our GM who is notoriously anti-diesel got it dealer traded not even realizing what it was. No one in the area had a gasser cube van, the sales manager told him it would have to be ordered. Well he found one and got it....or not.

I go one step further on headgasket, engine, or e-series injector jobs. I prime the system by removing the rear fuel passage plugs, command the pump on and let most of the air out.

Same here, for the longest time I didn't even know there was a procedure for tightening the rockers. Just did it the same as a 6.0. Carefully paying attention to how the rocker seats on the valve bridge.

I've had a few like this. The last one blew out the top of the lifters. Possibly from not having any load on it???

Kind of related. I just quoted a pinion seal on a 2011 pickup F-450 (Dana 80) and checked Mitchell for the labor time. 1.7 hrs. Then checked SLTS. 1.7 hrs.

Not a thing in either bay. Nothing on the schedule. This is the first time this year I haven't been buried over my head, let alone had absolutely nothing to do.

I saw one on a truck that I put t-stats in. Ordered parts, truck left, never came back so parts bills them to the shop :haha2:Now I have a set of gaskets in my own personal inventory waiting for the next one to come in. Same as you, no cooling system concerns either. Higher mileage if I remember correctly Edit - you know this reminds me of the GM Dexcool intake gasket problem. I had a 3.8L Grand Prix, same looking plastic gasket, same kind of coolant. Isn't ford orange OAT coolant Dexcool compatible? Dex is a known plasticizer

I discovered this recently. I believe it's for an LCF EGR cooler but its dimensionally identical to the black 6.0 o-ring. I would guess it could be used in place of the black o-ring if needed. I'll try it out and see. I know I got one of these o-rings once in an International branch tube adapter kit (STC) which fit the 4.5L also.

Found an amp clamp that works off my voltmeter leads. Also located the ambulance wiring behind a panel in the back, what a rats nest. Several things are still powered all the time but nothing was drawing any measurable amperage. Rather than a kill switch there are 2 large automatic shutoff solenoids. Both of those are working fine. So I went back to where I should have went in the very beginning. Took the air cleaner off, reached my hand down to unplug the primary alt and my arm rubbed the secondary alt. Holy shit it's warm. Unbolted the positive from it and my draw dropped right down to .042 amps. Put a new secondary alt in it and it's fine. Unfortunately because this is an ambulance I let it cloud my normal thought process. Thanks for all your input guys, I really appreciate it.

Upfitter switches? I put a set in my 06. Completely plug and play.

I have 2 cores now and enough parts to build one. The one from my truck has u-joint end caps that are starting to crack which is why I took it out yesterday.