Matt Saunoras

Neapco 7-0081NG was the centering ball kit I got. We'll see if it holds up. "NG" is the non-greasable version. I don't know what the greasable version looks like but it's the same number, no NG at the end. Rockford Driveline also has a kit 404-0A that crosses to the Neapco number. Also found a part number for a 10 pack of the small centering ball seals, N2-86-1298.

That Spicer seal is dimensionally wrong as I found out today when I got here and checked the old seal. All I could do was proceed without changing it.I did get the double cardan together, it almost went off without a hitch but not quite, it was a pain to say the least. I didn't get as many pics as I would have liked but I got a few I'll upload. All in all it feels really good, the true test will be running it on a vehicle. Also if you guys didn't know it Spicer makes their own grease specifically for u-joints. There's a lot of good greases out there and this is one of them.

Well we are practically dead so I got a chance to disassemble the old driveshaft. That was quite a chore, you guys were all right too. The centering ball is the source of the vibration, it's worn out and the dried grease was causing the roughness. The u-joints were all perfectly fine, no signs of rust or wear. There is absolutely no way replacing the u-joints customer pay would be cost effective given the labor involved. That being said I found a Neapco centering ball kit and it actually appears to be the correct one. It comes with the ball pressed into the sleeve, the little needle bearing in the ball, a seal and a spring. The rest of the centering ball portion cleaned up very nice, it wasn't rusty at all, just dried grease. The large external seal I posted a pic of is superficially cracked but otherwise okay. I'm not sure where to source this thing. The peg that rides inside the needle bearing is in great shape. So the double cardan is dissembled but that was probably the easy part. I'll take some pics tomorrow and if I can actually get this thing reassembled and working I'm going to test it out on my 06. If you don't hear anything else about this assume I failed the reassembly process. This thing looks like it's going to be fun. edit - I may have located the large outer seal for the centering ball. I ordered Spicer 2-86-418, we'll see if it's right.

Yeah I do too. I have done far more preventative STC fittings than ones that actually failed. I had a few posts recently in the "What's in your bay?" thread where I got beat by some rowdy STCs. I'd rather fix them before not after. I agree that injector copper washer failure is caused by incorrect installation too.

I don't do it on a 6.0 but I have in the past on a 6.4. The 6.4 stainless sealing washer can be tough to remove and replace. I can remember at least 3 times I found a failing copper washer/injector cup damage on a head gasket job that had no signs of combustion in the fuel (yet). I can only imagine explaining that one if I missed it by not taking the injectors out. On the other hand I never remove the glow plugs until the rocker boxes are off and I can tap the harnesses out from the inside. As for your original question, I can't see how it could possibly damage them.

Off topic slightly....There is a new TSB for replacing the VGT solenoid. It's the same one a 6.0 uses, don't know why they thought it would stop going bad.

I believe this is a recall or TSB for an LCF 4.5L hence the 6E7Z prefix (E7 = LCF). It just happens to work on a 6.0L because the engines share a lot of similar components. You can get an individual dummy plug or standpipe but if you need all 4 it's cheaper to get the kit

Listen man, no one knows everything, I don't give a shit if you train for a living or not. When 95% of what I work on doesn't have ESOF I don't spend a lot of time fixing it.

I'd like to know what they changed from 2010 to 2011. The auto hub locks are a different part number but I can't see a damn bit of difference just by looking at them. Nevermind. I had no idea the newer super duties used constant vacuum hubs.

Post coolers road test on that silver F-250 that was nearly hydrolocked on coolant. I warned them it would need headgaskets, didn't listen.

I think there's a TSB for that ^^^

Good advice there. I run oasis and look at warranty history on nearly everything I work on. Countless times it's helped out, you can't ever have too much information at hand. I have a special "flushing brick." It's perfect rectangular shape holds the accelerator pedal perfectly, as an added bonus it's infinitely adjustable and has a rough texture to assure maximum grip to the maintain its position.

Man this has been a messed up couple weeks. I can't seem to get anything done around here, that truck with the heads and tranny is done but not without putting up a hell of a fight. I fixed so much shit on it that they damn near had to start me another order to put the parts on. We can't put more than 36 parts on one repair order I donated a bunch of stuff on it too like a new y-pipe, used intercooler and updated pump connector. In return they gave me the powermax turbo that was on it. It wasn't really helping performance at all.

Hahaha I just lost my shirt this week. It's been a while but it happens unfortunately

The labor quote gave it away.

Noticed the fan and stator still in place. This is a simple reminder to me that I've never worked on an e-series 6.0 with a single alternator.

I still can't get over that pic. What the hell where they thinking when they built our shop?

I saw that code once. Removed the PCV and it had rust on it. Tried to sell a fuel system, truck left with a new PCV and hasn't been back for a damn thing.

Last week we had a record setting low of -17F in Pittsburgh. I was scared for my poor 6.0 that's for sure. Last year 0 degree temps had my fuel freezing up, not so much this year. The fuel might be treated different now because we're not seeing anyone coming in with frozen filters. Also the fact I wired in a fuel heater may have helped. Not regretting that one a bit.

I'm nearly convinced either the speed sensor or the tone ring is wrong on this F-700. The sensor air gap should be at most .050" and I am seeing way more than that. I'm not getting any AC voltage reading from it. The red wire to the back of the speedo has 12v. The black wire from the sensor has good resistance to ground and the green wire from the speedo to the sensor also checks out good at <1 ohm.

Yep they've told me the same thing in the past

Looking at the speedo sensor shows it looked like it was hit but I'm not sure how or why. When I check the distance from the teeth I have about 1/4" of clearance. The thing has a new 5 speed FS-4005-B trans in it. I can see teeth are present but can't tell their condition.

91 F-700 with a speedo inop. Not real sure what to do with this one, I need to do a little digging around for some info first

I just ordered a grease needle. I forgot last week I put a napa driveshaft u-joint in an ambulance and one of the caps had a hole for a flush mounted zerk. The old u-joint I removed had the same cap, no way it was ever serviced. That was the first time I ever even saw a flush grease fitting.

Not me, I rarely have the dual boost turbos out for any concerns so I've never had the chance to even look at the wastegate. This is one of those codes that if it only generates on KOER, will not generate on a roadtest and I can't seem to resolve it then the vehicle leaves . I always seem to find it along with another concern, lets say perhaps "customer states veh lacks power at times" Also I have never had this code by itself and had the check engine light on. It's either accompanied with other codes or it comes KOER when PCM was already a pass. I fix a lot of air management faults with MAF and MAP sensors. I would love to have one of each as a diagnostic tool, unfortunately the MAF is quite expensive and has a core.