lmorris

We have some L-brackets we bolt to the back end and stand it up o n the floor. We also use the hoist arm to get it on and off of the transmission jack, then use the engine crane to stand it up. Next time we have one apart I will get some pics.

Don't have part numbers, but you will need the tank, heater, pump, line and injector. There is no kit so you have get each individual part. The fill tube can be cleaned. 3 hours will be sufficient to cover the repair.

The only damaged glow plug was #2, I didn't remove the left head though and didn't disassemble the right one. Customer only wanted to pay to determine what could have been the cause. He is purchasing another tuner, one that we have had very good success with. If it was something that fell in the exhaust manifold, well it definitely shouldn't happen again. Nothing that looked like a bolt head, but it may not have been a bolt, maybe some other debris. Only speculation at this point. Given others have seen this failure on the right bank makes me think it was on its way out and the tune may have pushed it over the edge.

The intake was definitely a result of the exhaust valve failure. may have been temperature related but I have another scenario to add to the mystery. Was on the phone with the customer discussing tuner options and he told me he did all the work for the delete himself. Was in the process of getting the lifting bracket set-up when I found a center punch and half a drill bit down in the valley. Then it hit me, the block off plate on the exhaust manifold had one factory bolt and one "other" bolt. He was obviously in there drilling out the broken bolt, I wonder if he dropped something into the manifold and it made it's way to the valve. It is the next port in line after the EGR tube.

Customer had Reductant repairs to do and opted for the delete package instead. Shop that did it said they put in a "Tow 90 hp" custom tune with emissions deleted. Ran for 3 days before the thing can to a stop. #2 glow plug tip broken, pulled the head and both exhaust valves are broken, one intake valve is broken and it's push rod is bent, also made a mess of the piston, bore and the head. Identical to the left bank valve failures we have seen. Seeing as I have never seen this failure on the right bank on a tuned truck I am leaning towards blaming the tuner. On the other hand there are a lot of trucks with the same set-up running around these parts that are problem free. I am stumped on a cause. Any suggestions?

Was going to do that, then I also noticed the slot for the clip is not cast the same either. Hotline said there has been no parts change info sent out. I left it as is. There is no slop in the fit up in that corner anyways.

Put in two of the new "K" radiators. I noticed something odd about them. Nothing on PTS or in WSM. Asked Hotline and waiting for reply.

2013 EGR valve(p2073) and a primary radiator. 2015 Crankcase seperator for faulty sensor. 2011 with a locked up engine getting a retail long block.

Got my not start 6L running, something went through the oil pump and from the looks of the marks, my money is on a lifter needle bearing. This engine had some work done to it before we got from the wreckers. They must not have gotten all the pieces out guess. Swapped out the good front cover and oil pump from the engine I took out of the truck and got my oil pressure and HPOP pressure back. Before they towed it here they were messing around with the FICM relay and put in the wrong one. For some reason I had no fused relay power at the FICM, wiggle the relay and it would come back and promptly drop off to zero volts again. Put in the correct relay and she fired right up. BUT...the left turbo inlet pipe (which was re-used from their old engine because of the EGR delete) has developed a crack in the expansion joint, which was discover after getting it all back together. Our luck with used engine installs has finally run out. Thankfully the wrecker covered the parts and labor to replace the front cover.

Never used a TSB for SCR issues other than for EGT sensors. If it has open recalls for Programming and there are SCR codes I get a second line added and perform the SCR diagnosis after the reprogram is done.

Before changing the transfer case, I saw a thread on the Ford side about a skipping chain. Tested out the theory, YUP, chain was climbing up the teeth on the slack end of it. I could actually get a screw driver through the drain plug and pull the chain off the gear and move it over a tooth...

MT time...as soon as I leave the bay I am running an MT punch. "Performed WSM directed drive cycles and retest". Gets paid every time. Claimed up to 1.5 hrs of driving and manaul regens and have never been kicked back.

Yet another 6.7L EGR cooler core. 7.3L right bank glow plug, EBP sensor and broken tube. The used 6L I put in last month came back on the hook.

2013 Raptor for a new transfer case. 2013 Focus for over heating(yet to verify but there was the P0217 over temp code in memory) and a clutch shudder that was fixed with the reprogram.

Numerous people have attempted to find this. I can feel it right under my feet. A loud harsh snap/bang, seems rotational because it intensifies with vehicle speed. Only happens in 4WD, high or low, from a stop, with throttle input. Found a damaged thrust bearing in the t/case in the planetary assembly, nothing else, no chain or gear damage. Found some play in the front driveshaft where the shaft goes into the rear cv-joint assembly. Replaced the driveshaft and re-bearinged the tcase with a new pump and strainer. Front IWE's have been done as well as a new rear driveshaft. Front diff has not been apart yet. Pinion feels good and rotates freely. All mounting bolts for front diff are tight. Need some help on this one. Edit:Actually got it to act up on the hoist, something in the transfer case is snapping bad. Last time it was apart I found nothing to pinpoint a cause, so I ordered up a new case for now.

Back on topic. No diesel work, just a bunch of PDI's.

Hotline has told me numerous times that the key to clearing the Engine idled state is exhaust temperatures. Twice now I have had to run a forced regen to get it to clear.

Yet another EGR cooler core. This one made it to 106,000 km before plugging up.

I would think it has more to do with valve timing affecting the turbo's ability to make boost, and not how the waste gate works. Kind of like how a diesel with low compression would set a boost low boost code, first thing to check is the turbo controls, if those pass you go after the engine.

It's that time of year again...

Rotunda now has a DLC breakout box we can run in line with the VCM. Part # 420-167. Works slick for chasing network issues with out having to unplug the VCM.

Recently found out that we can use European spec. D-Links, end in "E". They run like a typical router and utilize more than one channel, this makes them extremely stable in areas with a lot of interference. Down side is you have to get them shipped in from somewhere in Europe.

I have been running Windows 10 for the last week. All work based functions are normal. No issues there. Only had to update a my touch pad drivers to get it to work.

Heads up for 2017: Just got back from school, Advanced Electronics, and as usual there was some diesel talk going on. The after treatment is getting reworked for 2017. Same basic parts, just reworked. I asked the instructor if they are going to put in a dedicated regen injector like the 3.2L, He agreed it is the smart way to go, but wasn't informed on all the details, so he doesn't know.

So I will assume you weren't around during the Aerostar sliding door stop days. That's where I learned to use a Mig welder.