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Everything posted by lmorris
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That's how it came apart, the nut was locked up and it just twisted out of the holding end.
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Timesert has kits for all applications. Contact them for the kit you need.
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Is the extra labor op on the Ford side. I have used Mitchell times since the mid 90's and there has never been any difference between injectors and injector seals. Example: Both 5.9 hrs.
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Also the 6L Flush TSB, in a round-a-bout way, says the same thing, only they word the final flush as using "CLEAN" water. Hotline told me about the final distilled water flush way before the 6.7L even came out. I asked them what was meant by fresh water and clean water. What I like to do is drain as much out as possible, fill it full of distilled, let it idle for a few minutes, then while it's still running, remove the drain cock on the rad and keep pouring in another couple of jugs into the degas. Shut down the engine, an do a final drain and fill. Starting with the correct amount of coolant first then topping off with water(there is always a few litres of water left in the block that you can't get out.) The first time I pre-mixed the coolant and ended up with mixture of 40 coolant/60 water...Had to start over...
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I have never added any labor on top of R&I injectors. Even back to the 7.3L days the labor for injectors and injector seals has been the same.
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Ford does state you can use tap water to flush as long as you perform the final flush with distilled.
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Google image your post count
lmorris replied to Brad Clayton's topic in Tools, Computers and the Internet
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Google image your post count
lmorris replied to Brad Clayton's topic in Tools, Computers and the Internet
Off topic, but I never figured out why LEGO thinks an engine can run with out a cylinder head. -
Google image your post count
lmorris replied to Brad Clayton's topic in Tools, Computers and the Internet
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Google image your post count
lmorris replied to Brad Clayton's topic in Tools, Computers and the Internet
An abandoned damaged General Electric J47 aircraft engine in the woods on the south side of Grouse Mountain. This is on a trail that runs straight along a cut in the fores from North Vancouver (Mont-Royale area) due north to the Grouse Mt. skiing area, along which a chairlift system operated in the 1950s. This is apparently part of the engine of a USAF F-86D Sabre aircraft (s/n 51-2987) that crashed in this area in 1954 . Taken from the wiki site. -
The socket was mine, I used it for reference purposes. I had to use a 1/2 deep impact socket in order to use a ratchet.
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While on the topic of boost specs....Yesterday I looked at a 2008 F350, customer complaint of frequent regen. DPF was part loaded, pressure was 0.16 at idle and 1.6 at WOT. Request pid was .5 KM LOWER than complete pid which tells me it completed a regen event then went right back into another, 46KM ago. Road tested it and regen stayed inactive. All reading normal. Back in the shop it keeps setting P2263 KOER, on the road test this thing performs like a beast. 38 PSI and pulls smooth. Found a slightly plugged EBP sensor and tube, slightly sludged up MAP sensor, the MAF was oily, probably because the air filter was clogged up pretty good. Replaced the air filter and cleaned up all the sensors. Checked crankcase pressure just for giggles, 8" water, spec is 10", close but with 280,000 KM I am not surprised, very little idle time, engine hours convert to 285,000 KM. Road tested it after and couldn't feel any difference, KOER still sets P2263, I had the turbos off this thing back in December, I know they are good. Long story short..has anyone else run into this code and not find a reason for it being set? As I said, this thing is a beast on the road, given mileage and load on the truck, and it's stock to boot. I didn't mention the code to the customer, just the messy sensors causing the regen issue. This isn't the first one that had me baffled.
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Sweet ride Keith. I don't own one, but I would think that the biggest challenge would be to master regenerative braking without pissing off the general public. Nice choice, Grampy Jim would be proud.
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Get to replace a head gasket in a 2013 Ram 350 dually, any tips?
lmorris replied to lmorris's topic in General Diesel Engines
This is what they sent me. Haven't confirmed the cost yet, but I heard the parts guy say it was just under $900 our cost when he was on the phone. -
26 PSI minimum. No max spec. But I seem to remember 38 PSI from school.
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Get to replace a head gasket in a 2013 Ram 350 dually, any tips?
lmorris replied to lmorris's topic in General Diesel Engines
As far as we can tell, it blew out the gasket between each cylinder. Can someone tell me if the markings on the heads are going to be an issue? I can feel the impression with my finger. The head is not warped amd the block is fine. -
Odd, I keep hearing 53 KM. I believe our instructor and the hotline were telling me 53.6 KM at one point. I can see your math now, it makes more sense, odd how everyone around here uses 53 KM.
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I wouldn't credit that type of leak to the coolant. Every rad I have changed has looked like that. Still no responses on the post I left on the P2P site.
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So I refused to work on the customer requested glow plugs in the 2007 6L that needs an engine...so far I haven't been fired... Got another Dodge diesel lined up for lack of power/ rough running off idle lined up too.
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Various customer and used car inspections, a PDI. In the line up: head gasket on a 2013 Ram 3500 6.7L 2007 F550: diagnosed 10" crankcase pressure, 3 dead cylinders on start up and 2 bad glow plugs, customer wants the glow plugs replaced...
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Venturing into the Cummins world. Chipped, deleted and studded with a blown head gasket. Used cars sold it, customer didn't realize the chip was cranked up and was pulling a 3 horse trailer, can't get warranty, so I get to do it. Mitchell repair procedure looks straight forward and I imagine general procedures from doing all those 6L's will be useful. Any tips I should know about before diving into this thing? Quick question, is the $900 top end gasket kit from Dodge required for this job?
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I tried Google for any information, what a nightmare that was. Some forum threads that popped up are down right scary. I had some information from the last 6.7L training school session, but I can't find it anywhere. I put the question to the "Experts" on the P2P forums and will monitor it to see what responses I get.
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Pretty sweet. If you are like me and assumed it was a bar code scanner, it's not. You need to place the blue line over the actual VIN, not the bar code. It doesn't tell you that. And it won't read the stamped VIN plate under the windshield either, only the B-pillar placard.