lmorris

Found my problem.

The plot thickens. Just found out this thing had a retail long block and turbo done it. Explains all the stuff I found wrong. I am going to check the HPFP gear to see if it's timed properly. What would happen if the guy forgot the CKP sensor ring?

Driving from cold start, accelerates fine till it hits 2000 RPM, starts to cackle and buck RPM jumps around then it has a big surge, big enough to put me a little sideways. Steady cruise is ok. Once it warms up it's fine till you try a 5-6 WOT downshift at 65 MPH and has a very slight hesitation/ buck. It's not in regen either. My first thought is a slight gasoline mixture. No codes, KOEO, KOER, all pass. Cylinder balance fine, turn off compensation and all cylinders go loopy and it sounds like an IDI. Does not idle rough. Reset all fuel related adaptive tables, no change. Fuel sample from water seperator seemed ok. Drained upper filter, thought I got a whiff of gasoline. So customer gave ok to flush tank and lines , and replace filters. Drove after flushing it out and it was fine. let it sit for 3 hours and it's still doing it. Only happens at the 2000 RPM mark on hard to medium acceleration. If you 1/4 throttle it up to 50 MPH it is fine. Haven't gotten into fuel system contamination yet. It just seems odd that it happens at 2000-2200 RPM only and gets better as it warms up. Any input it greatly appreciated. Another odd thing is it only has 14260 KMS on it, has had the EGR valve and bypass replaced, but someone had the main degas bottle out, I know this because the rubber that holds the CAC at the bottom still is missing and the battery cables are pulled off the bottle. The connectors on the right side battery tray are all unclipped and stuffed down lower than they should be too. Something was done to this that is not documented.

I just finished one here. 2006 after a good drive it would long crank then start and have a low idle, sometimes no throttle response, then clear up. No codes. Noticed ICP V KOEO was 0.48 volts. replaced the sensor and it dropped to the normal 0.24 volts. Now it's starting good.

In these situations I like to disconnect the ICP sensor and try it. If the ICP is biased, unplugging it forces the PCM to use known good values to try to start the engine, if it starts normally go after the ICP sensor or it's wiring.

If it's a VCM2, there is a tab beside the dongle you press and hold while powering up the VCM2. This will also force a factory reset. 1. Shut down the IDS application if it is running. 2. Disconnect the VCM II DLC cable from the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the VCM II USB cable from the VCM II and PC. 4. Remove the rubber boot on the VCM II that is opposite the DLC connector to expose the Recovery Mode Switch (the plastic tab shown in Figure 2). 5. Start the IDS application. 6. Press and hold the plastic tab. Do not release the tab until Step 9. 7. Connect the VCM II to the PC using the USB cable. 8. Wait for the VCM II's Power LED to remain on and for the unit to beep. 9. Release the plastic tab - the VCM II will be in Recovery Mode. 10. The IDS pop-up window shown in Figure 3 will appear notifying the user that a new version of VCM II software is available. Select the Tick button to update the VCM II software. 11. Follow the IDS on-screen instructions to complete the software installation.

Typically the VCM should only update when IDS determines it is not compatible with the current IDS version. You can force a factory reset on the VCM then when you plug it into what ever you have IDS on it will update to the latest version.

Always guaranteed to see a couple of those come winter here.

Odd thing is I see more water than oil here. Maybe it has something to do with idle times, climate, elevation changes, I don't know. Only time I see oil in CAC is when there is a failure.

Possibly related, I've been talking to a lot of customers that have said they go through more DEF since the 14e03 updates.

Water in the CAC is normal. Even as much as you said. The rust at the turbo outlet may have been from it being shut down when fairly hot and left to sit for a long time. Did you find any rust at the high pressure turbo inlet when you took the exhaust up-pipes off? That rust alone would be no reason to change the turbos. You would need to check the impeller shafts for excessive movement or excessive oil build up in the compressor housings to determine turbo condition.

Just finished one up with this code. PPT AI only monitors BOO1 and led to no fault found, yet code would not clear. Went into PID data and found BOO1 and BOO2, BOO2 was not switching. Checked brake pedal switch wires, no issues, changed switch and all is good. Not sure why the PPT didn't look at BOO2, which is used for cruise cut-out. Could find no reference to BOO2 anywhere in PCED or WSM.

They are non-existent. I use 12650DD,DX1,D45D,D75 for reductant injector removal for the dosing test and mt actual time for the rest.

I have only bought 2 new tool boxes in my life. First was a Craftsman set when I first started, ended up having the top box stolen, full of tools, out of the back of my truck while it sat out in front of my house. Bought a used one to replace that, painted the roll cab twice, then 4 years ago I treated my self to a new roll cab from the local Peavymart. Nice size, holds all my tools, and no top box means I have a work space for my laptop and stuff, all for $800 Canadian. My old combo I donated to the shop for the lube techs.

With ICP climbing during the stall I would suspect a fuel starvation issue. What is your fuel pressure? I wonder if the flush machine had something in the lines that pushed into the trucks fuel lines and is now causing a restriction.

Quick question, putting a set of 3C3Z ARM heads on a 2004 block. Block has 18mm dowels, heads and gaskets are 20 MM. I flipped the heads and inserted the dowels and set the gasket on and it seems the gasket is flush with the step on the dowel. I am concerned the dowel will limit gasket crush. Should I be concerned?

Well now...It's back with same concern. Here is the hotline response.... Comment From: Ford Comment Date: Dec 01 2015 13:22:58Leon,This could be caused by a calibration concern. It appears this vehicle is covered by TSB 15-0158 based on the build date of the vehicle. It would be recommended to update the PCM to the latest calibration per the TSB and retest for any further concerns with the vehicle. TSB 15-0158 does not apply to chassis cab vehicles. Going to reprogram anyways if there is an update, my guess is it won't get paid.

He needs to put it in one of the up-pipes to increase turbo spool-up.

Got my cam out. BTW, I had to remove the rod caps for the two pistons closest to BDC in order to get the crank low enough.

This will be the second camshaft replacement for me. With the engine on the stand,you move the long bedplate bolts to the outside, turn the engine right side up, then you can loosen the bedplate bolts slowly and lower the crankshaft/bedplate enough to let the cam gear clear the crankshaft rear flange. I have read about people removing it with no issues, but I would rather not take that chance.

Just finished looking at a 2016 F550 with only 1100 KM on it that set P0234 for no apparent reason. Freeze frame data has boost at 15 psi at 104 km/hr, which doesn't seem abnormal to me. Cleared codes and was unable to get code to return.

Got my boss's son's 6L in. Thing has had a slight pop for a long time now but never had it in to properly diagnose it. A while ago it had #2 intake pushrod break and rocker pop off. Both were replaced with no known cause found at the time, and they didn't want to pull it to far apart because it was running good despite the pop. Came back again with #2 intake rocker spit off. This time I got to look at it. Found the tops of the intake valves damaged and the bridge not seating properly. Convinced the boss to let me pull the head off. He decided to order in 2 heads before I got the chance. Now I have it apart and decided to look at the lifters, found #2 exhaust lifter roller all pitted and wouldn't you know it, the lobe is 3/4 gone. Cylinder walls are in great shape, so he gave me the go ahead to cam it if the crank is good.

The last oil cooler job I did, the guy had the same complaint, only did it after truck sits for a bit then goes away after a good acceleration. Turbo shaft was with-in specs and nothing else was found to be wrong. It's a 2003 that's been his work truck since new, so he bought it off the company and only uses it to pull his holiday trailer. We both think it's the turbo, he was going to change it but decided to wait when he had to fix the oil cooler. Long story short: Yes, I have seen turbos smoke intermittently.

Are you talking about that hollow knocking noise that some of the 6.0's have at idle? No, it was definitely popping through the intake, you could hear it at the air filter horn. We even had to side by side and it was noticeably different. My guess is a bad valve seat seal more than anything. I will have a better look at them when I get the heads off. That will have to wait till I get back from my holiday in Disneyworld though.

Have in my bay right now. One bolt started to tighten up on the way out so I ran it in a bit and sprayed it with WD40 to loosen up the threads. The second wouldn't budge so I tightened up the first bolt and did this.......