lmorris

Starting this as a place to post those weird crazy codes that show up in IDS/PTS every now and again.

Maybe it's time to sublet this out to your nearest GM dealership.

How's this.

2003 6L, 90,000 kms. Blown out ICP and oil soaked pigtail. Don't see too many of these anymore. Wires were full of oil, had to cut the harness back about 2 feet before I found some clean,dry wires to crimp to.

The hard drive on my laptop has 4 partitions, one is used as a recovery drive that was set up by ASUS, so I don't think it's going to be an issue. Plus if you don't like or want to continue with W10 you can go into installed updates and remove it, it will keep the previous OS intact.

no plans to switch until I know IDS will be compatible with it I asked hotline and they state that windows 10 has not been tested yet. Going to download but not install.

2014 F550 that had a turbo replaced elsewhere and they forgot to check the CAC hose oring at the turbo because it's missing and setting a MAF code when it tries to go into regen. May be false regen though because of inaccurate MAF readings. Waiting for oring to come in. Meanwhile have another 2014 F350 with a bad turbo because of poor air filter maintenance.

I have it too. Talked to my boss and he suggests holding off on the install until it's confirmed PTS and IDS are compatible. He says Ford claims to be on track with this but is a little leery on that.

So did I. So I went right to the Ford site a checked the latest online owners manual and it states that it is possible.

I gave it a good rocking when it was about 6 inches off the front mounts, I was happy with the stability, Would prefer to have 4 points, but sometimes that's not an option. If the pins were aligned with the cab's center of gravity it would lift more level. Truck is done and out the door now so it was a success. Was doing an oil cooler BTW.

The owner is going to talk to the builder to see if we can get another set of pins welded on in a better position to get the cab to sit more level. Will update with the answer.

Pop out the 2 plastic alignment pins on the upper support, it comes off easier. Don't touch anything on the fan shroud except the 4 bolts that attach it to the rad, once you have the rad loose and ready to come out just pry up on the shroud to lift it off the rad. Real time: I have them done to 1.5 hours. Retail I believe is about 3.5 hrs. You can choose to leave the A/C intact, but you will need someone to help you lift the rad past the condenser. I like to have the A/C evacuating while I take other stuff off, it is usually done before its time to remove the condenser, then I charge the system while bleeding the cooling system. If you have no issues with a 6.7L rad then this will be a cake walk.

They cost us about $300. We have a guy here who has a friend that owns a machine shop, so it was mostly the cost of the metal, supplies, and a bit of labor. I strapped the rear of the brackets to both door strickers and for safety I strapped the cab to the frame once it was up. I would have liked the pins off center to counter the slight tilt, but the builder didn't think it was a good idea.

This would have a rubber gasket. No silicone to plug up the pick up.

Here Are the pictures. Didn't work in original post.

Had these made up awhile ago. Finally get to use them.

It can be done. You don't need an admin key to create a Mykey. You only need it to clear them. If the vehicle has an Ford approved remote start that hasn't been Mykeyed, you can use that as the admin to clear the Mykeys. These guys had no remote start.

You will need the second key. There is no other way. We had a customer that thought it would be funny to MyKey his wife's key, she wasn't impressed so she MyKey'd his key. They had to bring it in with both keys and pay to get the keys reset.

I was told by one of our Ambo fleet managers that this what they are supposed to do if the unit is going to sit for more than a day. We have one unit come in that blows a 650 AMP megafuse and shuts down the entire unit if it sits outside and is not plugged in in cold weather. They usually have the block heater tied into the shoreline as well.

Pretty sure they are Blue Point. Had them for so long the name and part number are worn off.

I gotta ask, because I have seen it happen and I can't think of anything else that could have happened, Did you leave a rag on the oil pick-up when you put the pan back on?

My 6L nightmare is running again. Last night it had no FICM SYNC, no SYNC and no RPM signal cranking. Came in this morning and rechecked my initial repair at the PCM, all looked good, plugged in the PCM and she fired right up. After re-pinning the CKP and CMP wires at the PCM, then changing out the engine harness hardshell at the PCM because one lock tab broke(we have an old 6L engine harness on hand) it is now running, and stays running. Pin fit must have been my final issue, most likely due to a few attempts by other techs to figure this one out. Now comes the task of figuring out what to charge the customer.

Any customer we have with this complaint is usually new to the Superduty scene and is not accustom to the "fade".

Now I am going to stop asking sales when we are getting in some diesel powered units.

My 6L keeps getting better. Found #2 injector side connector busted up and not plugged in, explains why it's running on 7 cylinders now. While waiting for the ok to replace the injector I let it run to see why it stalls. Turns out it dropped FICM sync right before it stalled and set a CMP circuit code. Checked the CMP harness and found both wires at the CMP connector bared and the taped used to seal them falling off. Fixed up that end of the harness and put in a new CMP sensor to be safe. Still waiting on the injector so I decide to properly route his Bulletproof oil cooler lines, in doing so I unplugged the engine harness from the PCM and found both CKP sensor wires also bared and poorly retaped, plus the CMP wires had been cut and had a small piece of wire spliced in on each. Fixed those wires up too. Now I have the go ahead on the injector. Found only 2 valve cover bolts that weren't stripped and the far back oil rail bolt hole was stripped too. A quick look at the right side reveals a few more stripped out threads. Now I am in the process of lifting the cab to fix all the messed up holes.