lmorris

Has anyone done enough compression tests to get some idea as to what is normal? WSM states minimum of 300 PSI. I am getting 300-310 on one that has ingested dirt up to the CAC.

We don't get those. Never heard of an Electronic field communication.

Quite possibly my first retail 6.7L .

Possibly a restricted pick up in the pan? Kinda sounds like the 7.3L when the sock in the fuel tank would plug up. Runs fine when little demand is needed, not so when the HPOP demands more oil?

I haven't seen the VCI manager for awhile. What version of IDS are you running? My VCM 2 updated when V93.01 came out.

Still sitting in my bay. After many back and fourths with ESP because of various different requests on their part, plus the fact that someone over there can't read, I am still waiting for approval for these turbos. Finally got the approval, slapped on a couple of turbos, changed the oil and filter, changed the air filter, attempted a manual regen (I never have luck with doing a 6.4L manual regen), the thing just belched raw fuel for a few minutes, cooling fans never ramped up, so I kicked it out of manual and drove it. According to IDS it went into regen and completed it, both DPF complete and request reset, and never a single message on the dash. On the drive back the cluster dropped to 11L per 100KM. 21 MPG. I'm happy.

Still sitting in my bay. After many back and fourths with ESP because of various different requests on their part, plus the fact that someone over there can't read, I am still waiting for approval for these turbos.

First thing is does it have the correct oil in it? Second, only time I have seen oil pick up issues is when the pan gets dented. Third, have you tried a known good ICP sensor?

We had one in with the same issue, new gut at an indy shop did head gaskets and it wouldn't run after. We get it and it runs with the bleed tool and pumps lots of air. ALL the injectors were loose.

The 10:30 part is regarding the position of the dowl on the balancer. You put it at 10:30, depending on which valves are closed you tighten certain rocker bolts, then rotate the crank 360, putting dowl back to 10:30 position and tighten the rest. This to prevent valves from contacting the pistons because the lifters sometimes will not bleed down fast enough. I personally have never followed this procedure, I use hand tools only on the valve train and have never had a problem.

Replace the head if it's warranty. There is no authorized thread repair procedure in the WSM, so Ford will pay for a new head if it has warranty.

Ouch...time to find out why it's low. What's the oil level at? Oil in CAC? Most times it's from overfull oil. The oil gets drawn into the intake through the crankcase vent and starts to take out the piston, and in some cases hydrolocks it. If the oil is overfull you need to perform oil level check in Hard start/no start diagnosis and go from there. When you get to checking the fuel pump for a leak, use IDS to command the pump on and let it run for 10-15 minutes. Don't take the engine apart until you find the cause of the high oil level(if it is in fact high). I would run the test regardless, the last thing you need is to put failed fuel system components into a new engine. IF there is piston damage, include #2 injector and glow plug with the engine repair.

And the associated retail times are no better. In fact, I have seen cuts in retail times at Mitchell-On demand over the last 2 years.

2010 F350, replaced the alternator, checked for intermittent no 4X4, need to diagnose no cruise button input to pcm, waiting on ESP approval for turbos, so I can finish diagnosis on high fuel consumption, most likely due to frequent regens or the lack of being able to finish one. P2263 keeps setting in KOER, so I am stuck here till I get that code to stop showing up. DPF shows partial, pressures are ok and tail pipes are clean, has 134,000 KM on the unit. Map was also plugged.

Poor coolant was my first thought too but the coolant looks good. Checked history and there is nothing relating to cooling system failures that would have caused contamination.

Anyone run across this before or have any ideas as to a cause?

Exactly what you are doing now. If the customer won't pay for the extras, we won't touch it.

During re-assembly of the retail one currently in my bay, something else popped into my head. The valve cover to housing gaskets were, after 210,000 kms, a little tired. If one was to do this repair without removing the housing, and say down the road those gaskets started to leak, who covers that repair?

Another issue I see with re-using the orings is that sometimes I have seen a claim rejected because some parts are missing from a gasket kit in the parts return. Seeing as most of these are warranty jobs, I wouldn't chance it.

Wiring repair at the DEF tank harness main connector on the frame harness side, reductant heater B power supply wire rubbed through 1/2 inch away from the connector, good thing we have the wiring kit, and my first retail EGR cooler core.

Just curious if this info is in service information or where you learned this. The WSM says to use coolant. We were having a bugger of a time "pushing" the core in so I asked hotline if any other lubricant could be used to ease installation. They said to use only non-mixed orange coolant, as anything else with cause contamination to the coolant. They may have said that just to cover their own asses. They also said we could use a piece of wood big enough to cover both core extensions, have something between the wood and the core for protection, and we could hammer the core done into the housing. Which is what I do.

I usually soak it in penetrating fluid for a few hours first. You can try heating the tip of a pick and melting it into the plug and let it cool then try pop it out. You can remove the valve cover and pop it put that way. I use my big channel locks for that way.

How do you get the core out without damaging the case? First one I ever did I tried to pry out and it was going to damage the case surface before the core came out. Not that I would ever do it this way, just asking. Plus, using any lubricant other than orange coolant on the new core to oring surface can damage the cooling system. I see no advantage to doing it this way.

Accessing the the EBP nut is not that bad with the heater hose out of the way. The two plastic shield clips can be removed with a pry bar an hammer, at least that's how I do it, there is 3 more on that shield, so I don't see an issue. I got sick of scratching up my arm, and on one the cooler snagged the fuel return line and broke it, didn't notice it till the truck was running though . Luckily my boss was nice enough to shop time the repair. Like Alex said, it doesn't take very long to remove it, there is no real time gain by leaving it on IMO.

I would suspect the orings on the cooler first.