Keith Browning Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 I am about to begin a 6.0L head gasket job and have decided to try the cab off method. Does anyone have any last minute advice. What is better to use as a lift point; the metal edges underneath where all of the steel panels meet or use the integral beams underneath the floor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snw blue by you Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Keith, I do this with both offset and parallel lifts, I place 2x4 boards on the lift pads and run them at a slight angle to the pinch rail. I then take rachet or pull through tie downs . and loop them around the rear lift arm and attach the hooks to the door latch on the body. I have done regular cabs, super and crew cabs this way, and have not hade any problems. The only thing that sucks about the crews is getting at the mid position body bolts. If you gave it some forethought you can do this w/o opening the brake system. Good luck, the first one can be a little intimidating. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 20, 2005 Author Share Posted October 20, 2005 WOW! That was easy to do and it took me about half of the time it usually takes to remove the engine. What's even better is that I don't have to mess around with the engine stand either. Now, If only my back-ordered head gaskets would arrive I'll be set. Thanx for the encouragement to do it this way! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif I wish I did all those blown engines this way too. Hind sight is 20/20 ain't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 29, 2005 Author Share Posted October 29, 2005 So I am done with this job and experiment and I wanted to share my thoughts on it. I realize I am not the first to do this and I know guys have been doing this for quite a while now. I don't see what the engineers at the training centers have against this approach? But anyways.. I found this to be quicker and less invasive than removing the engine. Although removing the cab LOOKS extreme, there was less disassembly and fewer parts removed overall. Performing head gasket replacement in chassis would have been difficult at best and torquing the head bolts in chassis would have been nearly impossible. There was no damage to the customers precious paint AND I got the cab and pick-up bed aligned better than the factory did. Working on the engine still mounted on the frame I had access to EVERYTHING, properly torquing the head bolts was a breeze. Laying a large piece of cardboard on the frame rails and transmission provided an excellent place to lay out the engine parts in an organized fashion as I removed them. It looks really cool! (yes, it was like the Circus was in town) My back suffered no pain or strain. A big plus! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HGM Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Keith, To answer your question as to what folks have against it. Safty..... This is the only way I would do it personally. However, Ford could never recommend a tech to do something potentially unsafe because your lift may not fit the requirements to keep it from falling on your head without the use of bubble gum and rubber bands(ratchet straps) holding it on. Glad it worked out for you, it can definitly make life easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Schnell Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 for anyone out there looking to lift cabs but has not done it before, i have a generic help letter that i have been e-mailing the guys on it and i would be willing to do the same on here. if you email me at mschn99@hotmail.com, i will send it to anyone who could use it. we gotta help each other out on ways to come closer to making times on fords problem child. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Schnell Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 Keith, I do this with both offset and parallel lifts, I place 2x4 boards on the lift pads and run them at a slight angle to the pinch rail. I then take rachet or pull through tie downs . and loop them around the rear lift arm and attach the hooks to the door latch on the body. I have done regular cabs, super and crew cabs this way, and have not hade any problems. The only thing that sucks about the crews is getting at the mid position body bolts. If you gave it some forethought you can do this w/o opening the brake system. Good luck, the first one can be a little intimidating. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif blue, i have a trick for you. i bought a half inch drive air ratchet. those middle bolts are a breeze with it. you take a prybar and use it to hold the carpet up enough to get that bolt behind the drivers seat (works best with an assistant). the half inch drive air wratchet i got off of the pts website has enough torque to loosen that bolt from there, sometimes you need to break it free, but all and all this works great for me, no seat removal involved. just watch it, those wratchets have enough power to break a wrist i think......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 7, 2006 Author Share Posted June 7, 2006 So now that I have been doing this for a while, I have employed different ways of setting the lift and securing the cabs - safety is my main concern. I use a Rotory asymmetrical lift and different cab configurations have different set up requirements. Getting the small cabs to balance has proven tricky. I began using blocks of wood with a channel cut into them but had no way of securing the cab, so I made up this little u-bolt system and it works really well. While not my prettiest invention it works the best. I am now going to make a new set to allow the use of my wooden blocks and this works with regular/super/crew cabs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleetingmoment Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 Ok I have done about 4 or 5 lifts now and cant figure on how you can do one with out pulling brake lines(???) from the antilock module on any year hydro or vacume? I can leave the a/c charged with out a problem and squeeze off power steering hoses with out losing much fluid. The last one I picked at the rear pinch weilds and blocks of wood on the front running boards with heavy nylon binders to the lift arms. I got to get a digital camera Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleetingmoment Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 OH I forgot to mention last year the the factory-field guy took pictures of one of my lifts and in 2007 a body lift will be a ford book repair procedure, withe easier disconnects lines and harnesses. (and cut the crap out of out times) DAM THEM FACTORY FIELD NAZI'S! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snw blue by you Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 Leave all lines connected,and unbolt the ABS unit from it's bracket. Then as an aid,pull the lines from their retainers on the frame rail. You should then be able to lay everything against the left side of the engine,and secure with bungie straps. Take some time to REALLY look at it,and it will all make sense. It can be done,and it makes the job that much easier if you don't have to get involved in brake bleeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james richards Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 the only way i do engines in truck is to pull cab any more . its way easier . worked awesome on an expedition . ford will cut the labor times im sure .bu thats what they always do dont they . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torqued_Up Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 How can they cut times on the ASSUMPTION that every dealer and technician has the facilities capable of doing cab off repairs? Technically they would have to make labor ops for both methods. Am I wrong here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErickBaker Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 I don't think Ford could post two labor ops without some sort of way police claims. Otherwise we'd all say that we pulled the engine to get the larger amount of time. Knowing Ford they'll probably just say you have to get the facilities you need in order to lift cabs if your dealer wants to work on\sale Superduties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Giacoma Posted June 11, 2006 Share Posted June 11, 2006 im sorry but ive never been a follower in the removing cab sence, ive done countless engines and in-cab heads and i admit that the heads would be a breeze with no cab but i can pull a head pretty darn fast and with no pain then even thinking of cab off repairs. sorry i fear change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gasgasman Posted June 11, 2006 Share Posted June 11, 2006 Your back will thank you for pulling the cabs, ten years from now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 11, 2006 Author Share Posted June 11, 2006 Quote: sorry i fear change I was the same way. I can't imagine how you can torque those head bolts in chassis. We used to pull the engine for such repairs but after having removed a few cabs we can do so rather quickly.And if you are a young-un, heed the advice of anyone who's "got your back!" I'm not old but I have had problems with my back in the past. Changing the way I go about many things have kept me fairy pain free for a while now. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcassidy111 Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 Anyone pulling cabs to replace the gas motors? We don't have the special lifting adapter for the 5.4L and sometimes the engine comes out with a bang. Installing the motor is tricky also, eveything has to be lined up and go in straight-not just aslam dunk and wrestle it in like the overhead valve motors in the old style cabs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G. Bedford Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 We started lifting the cabs to do the head gaskets on the oil leaking 5.4l wayyyyy back when. It was a natural to move on to the Super Duties and the 6.0l. We have body lifting down to a fine art in our shop. Once when it was slow in the shop I lifted the body on a Crown Vic to replace the engine, just as a lark. We have a large spreader bar to use with our cherry picker so we can lift the engine out as a complete assembly and swap in a complete engine that was sent. Just plug in the wiring harnesses and fuel lines and you're good to go. I have some pictures of a new body style 150 with a 5.4l 3V we exchanged complete engines in. I could post them if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcassidy111 Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 Pictures would be good. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gasgasman Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Customers flip out when they see the bodies pulled off. But, there's "more than one way to skin a cat". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErickBaker Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 FordDoctor could you give me a little more info on how you secure the cabs to the lift. I've seen you picture but what about cabs with running boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 Eric, Most guys are securing the cabs in one way or another and the first one I did was a crew cab which was balanced and did not necessarily need to be secured. Regular cabs are a different story. Looking at the picture you should notice that the running boards have been removed. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif They come off really quick with only 6 or 9 bolts (cab size dependant)holding them on. I place them safely out of the way in the pick up bed. As far as the clamp that I made it's 5/16" threaded rod and some angle iron appropriately bent to fit around the rear leg of my 9000 lb Rotary lift. The holes I put the clamp through are already in the pinch weld on all trucks. For me, bolting the bab to the lift was the most secure option because like most of us, I think death sucks just a little more than having to explain why the cab fell off the lift. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErickBaker Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Ok I've got you now. Thanks for the reply. Our other diesel tech and I are currently using wooden blocks under the pinch weld. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif Just looking for a better way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 I was using blocks too, had a co-worker cut channels lengthwise so they would slip over the edge of the body. They looked nice but I decided that they really served no purpose and resorted to laying a folded shop rag on the lift arm to prevent chipping the paint. Don't want to leave them something else to complain about now do we? This is what I finally decided works best for me and like I said, other guys have developed their own techniques that are equally as effective. I also tried bolting the folding lift cleats directly to the body using the running board hardware. Thats a little tricky because you have to get the truck positioned just right in the lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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