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6.0L HPOP cover removal with pics.

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Thought I would share my way of doing these, I'm sure this is a rehash for alot of us here, but maybe it can shed some light on other members. I am a visual kinda guy so I took some photos.

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Please note, engine is removed for clarity purposes only. So this is the point I am at after turbo removal only.


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Next I remove the top bolt only from each side of the up pipes. This allows the y-pipe to rock back and the bottom bolts do not need to be loosened.

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Now I remove the egr cooler clamp and slide it towards the cooler. Thats a nice head bolt or lack of, eh?

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Remove the bolts from the shield going to the cover only.

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Now I can rock the y-pipe back and retrieve the gasket.

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The gap created here allows enough room to get the clamp out and the pump cover shield mounting boss to slide thru with ease.

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This setup works well for really tight IPR valves. I've seen guys come thru way off to the side of the intake with swivels and extensions. I just slide the socket on then the ratchet and give it hell.

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Manual dexterity skills come in handy here. I use this 5/16 wrench to sneak in under the cooler. The first two will be trapped, the back one can be removed completely.

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Removing the last bolt completely.

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The last bolt can be taken out due to this neck down here.

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Now with all the bolts removed and loosened, I put an old turbo drain tube in to use as a prying devise so as not to damage the cover.

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I have try many methods in the past and this one works as slick as frog hair without any adverse effects.

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Now I just lift the cover at this angle and make sure the mounting boss slides thru the circled area.

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This allows the top area to clear the y-pipe with ease and absolutely no frustration what so ever.

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Be sure to keep a steady hand and these two bolts will stay put.

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And that's it, once the pump is out and back in, the cover goes on in the exact reverse order. Total job time is less than 4 hours, and usually 3 if the rear cover gasket seperates easily.

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Next I remove the top bolt only from each side of the up pipes. This allows the y-pipe to rock back and the bottom bolts do not need to be loosened.

This would be the problem I have with your method. How do you access those bolts in-vehicle? The lower two, I don't have a problem with. We are talking about an F-Series, correct?

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Most guys simply force the y-pipe out of the way and yank the cover out. If you use an 8mm flex gear wrench you can get the cover bolts out from under the EGR cooler and simply loosen and move the exhaust clamp out of your way. Forcing this cover out sometimes requires making modifications to parts I don't like doing. A little bend here, a little grinding there... While I have done things like that in the past I have come full circle in my thinking and prefer to make my short cuts effective without leaving damage or making part modifications. Posted Image

 

I kind of like this method of removing the upper y-pipe bolts allowing you to tilt it back and out of the way but I somewhat agree with Mike in that I HATE dealing with those bolts in chassis.

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I use a half moon 10mm wrench on top and 1/2 deep socket on the bottom and they come right out. Takes longer to set the vehicle up on the lift than to actually remove those two upper bolts. Well worth it on my end because no mods are needed and the truck is completely back to factory when done.

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What do you use to cut the silicone at the rear cover/hpop cover joint? I use the EGR cooler to up-pipe gasket, folded on a 90* angle. Works good in the tight space.

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I've done this job your way many times. The last time, I dropped one of the cover bolts inside the engine. I got lucky and retrieved it with a magnet.

 

Now, to avoid dropping bolts, I remove the y pipe and shield completely. It takes me about a extra 15 minutes, but I can cut the silicone better and remove the cover easier without the risk of dropping the 2 cover bolts in the engine.

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Just losen both bolts on driver's side y-pipe - it gives the pipe enough movement to remove cover without modifications and you don't have to fight the bolts going back in because you don't remove them all the way....just loose....works everytime!

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Posted Image Brad I for one think this is great. You showed us how you do this job and it gives us all a better perspective on how its done on a real truck with real miles/km not just something some engineer decided to do with a brand new engine, I think all of the pics we get should have rust and dirt and oil on them its real not just a engine on a stand in a controlled enviroment. Thats just for the guys writing the warranty manual. Posted Image I hope they read this and maybe work on a truck with some mileage on it.....Maybe the times would change.....
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  • 1 month later...

To take the Y pipe bolts out in the truck use a 3/8 woble ext (I forget if it is an 8" or 10" I just grab it without thinking anymore lol) with a 13mm impact swivel socket on a 3/8 impact through the wheel well opening at the splash shield on the outside of the frame rail. Also use a 10mm shory wrench to hold the bolt, rest it against the fire wall. If that makes sence. But may not work for everyone.

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I know this post has been here a while but I'm just getting around to adding my **.
Instead of the two foot pry bar like brad shows.

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I use a smaller bar it make a nice fulcrum to pry the cover straight up.
BTW the same bar make a great 6.0L EGR valve remover. I'll get pics of that asap.

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Holy shit, I didn't know mullets have been around that long!

 

Seriously though, I can skin a buck and run a crop line....I gotta shotgun rifle and a 4 wheel drive....I can plow a field all day long I can catch catfish from dusk til dawn.

 

Oh, and I make my own whiskey and my own smoke too. Posted Image

 

But seriously, I was out gathering my rocks for the winter the other day, and I came across a.... what did you call it? P-P- Prryye b b b barrrr, and divine intervention shined down on my humble back and I reared up and put my rocks down. But I digress Posted Image

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