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What's in your bay, part III

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Keith Browning

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want more pictures of my cart? Posted Image

 

doing a 6.4 horizontal cooler, primary belt tensioner and some other stuff in between honing my fabrication skills

With a swimsuit model sitting on it, sure!

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Doing 6.0 head gaskets. I couldnt get the ypipe bolts loose from

the manifolds so i removed the manifolds from the heads.

They bolts were so loose, i took them out with a gear wrench.

I will just cut the bolts out when the heads are off.

Some shop did head gaskets less then a year ago on this.

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What are you doing this on that you need to remove the left mount? It sounds like you are not doing a cab lift. I would at least try to tilt the front of the cab up, it makes getting at the rear head bolt on the left side a lot easier. F-series you just have to remove the evap case to make room for the right head. E-series you have to pull the engine.

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The few minutes tearing the inner fender and evap case out are a huuuuge timesaver and body saver.

If you follow the workshop manual, you are told to do this.

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I removed the drivers side eng. mount and the trans mount,

the heads came right up-with someone helping me that is Posted Image.

As for the gaskets they are black and dont see a name.

They are metal and have four layers. The compression rings are totally wiped.

Cyl 3 injector was all milky so it will need cups and the injector o-rings

look like they were just getting ready to melt. The oil filter stand pipe is ok Posted Image.

I teed a guage into this truck and let them drive it back in May, it went to

20 especially on upgrades when towing . Three head bolts were pretty loose

on bank 1.

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I removed the drivers side eng. mount and the trans mount,

the heads came right up-with someone helping me that is Posted Image.

As for the gaskets they are black and dont see a name.

They are metal and have four layers. The compression rings are totally wiped.

Cyl 3 injector was all milky so it will need cups and the injector o-rings

look like they were just getting ready to melt. The oil filter stand pipe is ok Posted Image.

I teed a guage into this truck and let them drive it back in May, it went to

20 especially on upgrades when towing . Three head bolts were pretty loose

on bank 1.

...... and that perfectly describes the ever so popular Black Onyx head gaskets that have been showing a higher propensity for repeat failure more and more. Why they are failing is still speculation as this point.
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I'm still fucking with that 13 escape of mine on and off. Ford bought the vehicle back but they still want me to try and fix it. it's getting a PCM next, then possibly an engine harness. Last time around it threw 55 module communication codes related to the HS network. It's so damn intermittent I haven't caught it in the shop in a month atleast.

 

Right now doing standpipes, dummies and an stc on a 05. came in as a no start but just like the last 3 no starts (I couldn't verify) it fired for me this morning. IPR screen was trashed for some reason or another. Cust has a bulletproof external oil cooler on it. Lovely how that large oil line is right in the damn way when you're trying to weasel the turbo out. So I had to re-invent turbo removal on this one.

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Also forgot to add, when i pulled the last head bolt out on each head the heads started to slide off the deck.

Yes-The Dowel pins were not present.

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Our other tech is buried and I have tomorrow off. Finally the tables are turned

 

Today I put an EGR valve and a fan clutch in a 10 F-450. To start the valve pulled effortlessly out of the housing. The stator was hacked up for a v-mac compressor and the clutch slid right out in the hacked up area. Too easy! Posted Image

 

A 2011 F-250 gasser got towed in and it's pouring tranny fluid out from the bellhousing area. I guess I'll look at that on monday.

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Im going to do a YPipe on an 03 F350 6L.

I never did any major work on the 03. So i need pointers guys.

Thanks Posted Image

The only thing on the 2003 6L you need to worry about is the back bolt on the turbo mount. It goes in horizontal and can be a bugger to loosen. Search the threads, there are a lot of good tricks posted for this bolt. If the truck is a regular or extended cab, remove the first and second set of cab mounts, loosen necessary stuff under the hood and tilt up the cab, then you can leave the turbo in place and sneak the pipes out the side.

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Got a 10 edge with the tranny out. 5th gear start, reverse is fine. Had a forward clutch code in it. Found the forward hub sun gear weld broke. No burned clutchs, no metal contaminiation. This may be the smallest warranty repair I've ever done on a teardown trans but I've gotta wait for the hub to come in now. Did a bank of glowplugs and a RH harness in a 6.0 today. #1 plug showing 183 ohms. Customer scanned for codes and was worried about it.

 

edit

 

why do I have to be so damn stupid all the time. For those of you that saw that disregard Posted Image

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Alright the 6.4 I am looking at does infact have high crankcase pressure. 12 in/water at 3000 rpm fully warmed up. Customer states the lower hotside boot keeps blowing off, the first time it blew off a lot of oil came out of the cac. relative compression showing #8 down 1%. hotline wants manual compression test results. Otherwise the vehicle runs great, no DTCs, short fuel trims all +/- 5. Makes 32 psi of boost. It is a warranty job and I've been doing pretty good keeping our warranty numbers in line.

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How about a 2008 f350 6.8, came in running poorly, lots of blowby, sounds bad cranking over, and has had two new exhaust mainfolds installed by someone. Only 40000 km, but over powertrain on time, so we get auth to start tearing down. My guy gets a cam cover off and finds fresh aluminum filings stuck on the inside? So we get the head off and take a good look, and there are holes drilled right through the exhaust manifold stud holes. I guess they stopped drilling when they hit the valve springs. So that explains the aluminum in the cam cover, but shouldn't make it run too bad. So we get at the other side, more holes drilled through the head on the oil side, flip the head over, and find a nice hole drilled right into number 10 cylinder, stopping at the exhaust valve. Aluminum is smeared all over the cylinder wall, I guess from the drill debris. So after all of this someone is buying a new longblock for this rig. This is a good case to explain why I only get broken studs out with the weld the nut on the stud method, although how do you drill that deep, not only one time, but six times!

 

I will post some pics when I get to a computer that is less than 10 years old.

DSC00143 (640x480).jpg

DSC00145 (640x480).jpg

DSC00149 (640x480).jpg

DSC00150 (640x480).jpg

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I hate drilling and quite frankly, I suck at it. You can't beat a MIG, I've done V10s with more broken than not and all come out with nice clean threads.

 

The 6.4 I'm looking at is 30psi low on #8. Hotline says that's enough to cause my above spec blowby. This thing also does have a lot of oil in the intake and turbos. Don't know why yet

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Those are freaking hilarious. I have never seen that before. That's worse than the old chrysler engines where you had to drain the coolant from the block before you took off the exhaust manifolds, and then you got to put sealer on the new bolts or you get a coolant leak.

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GRRRR! I'm trying to work with hotline on my 6.4 but it's not going well. They seem to think my engine ingested some of it's own oil and that's what's causing #8 to read 30-35 psi low. I think the oil in the cac and turbo is from the excessive blowby caused by #8 being low. I ran the fuel in the oil test multiple times and my oil is not growing. I've got a feeling I've got a washed down cylinder wall but they don't like that idea.

 

They want me to remove the up-pipes from the vehicle and re-run my crankcase pressure test. I also mentioned to them that since I've been driving this vehicle #2 STFT has gone from +5 to +10 in 2 days.

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Bay at work; 6.4l with well over 60" of crankcase pressure, relative compression looks good, manual 220psi on first hole, didnt check anymore after that, just finished an 05 f-150, rh manifold, front lower stud broke off 1/8" below head surface, also front diff pan, lower bjs and sway bar links on same unit.

 

Bay at home; 1988 bobcat 742, repairing what I thought was a broken rr drive chain, opened up chaincase, found drive sproket broke off of center hub, parts rolling around damaged 3 of the 4 drive chains. 8 hours into it now and I'm almost ready to start buttoning it up.

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