GregH

This bus was brought in with a surging complaint while driving. P0404 present in continuous memory. KOEO and KOER both pass. 3000 miles ago another dealer put an EGR valve in to cure a P0405 and P0471. The current mileage is 84,000. While driving at any throttle position, the EGRDC will cycle from 0% to 100% and back a little faster than once per second. Under heavy throttle, this results in a slight surging sensation. Under moderate throttle, the surge is much more pronounced. VGTDC will also vary about 10% in time with the EGRDC. EGRVP responds as expected - opening and closing fully in response to EGRDC. EBP varies as well, rising above and below EBP_DSD by about 3psi at moderate throttle. No other PIDS seem to be cycling like this. The EGR test passes. The graph is nice and smooth like you would expect from a new EGR valve. The turbo boost test passes, too. Smooth curves and 3psi max boost. I replaced the EBP sensor as a guess. No effect. Anyone have any ideas?

Over the last few years I've been taking Ford's online web based training. Up until this point, I'd only taken the minimum to remain diesel certified - but our dealer pays us the average completion time, so we've been taking advantage of that on slow weeks. I remember in the automotive fundamentals section an electrical class that had us follow a pinpoint test - and needlessly replace a module based on power or ground circuit tests that passed with a DMM. The class then brought it around to demonstrate that a better way to test it is a load test. There were various voltage drop tests performed during the class, too. Basic electrical classroom also addresses these things. The proper methodology is being taught. It is up to us to retain it. Granted the pinpoint tests will ask for inappropriate testing procedures - a ground circuit with 4.8 Ohms passes? - so we have to follow the correct procedure for the circumstance we find ourselves in. We have to use our brains..

I understood the diag sheets to be a creation of International. Correct me if I'm wrong..

I had the pleasure of using the cost cap tool today on a trashed 6.4L... Quick, easy, and gave an answer right away, though not the answer I expected. Gives you the option of the enhanced short block or repairing the existing block. Then you can choose your addons. High pressure stuff, EGR coolers, cylinder heads, etc. No options for selecting gaskets or other sundries. At the end it'll give you a thumbs up or down. Mine had failed rod cap bolts on #1 and #2, locked up engine, cylinder head and block damage, cooked bearings all the way back to #8, worn rocker arms and bridges, and a slight leak at the horizontal EGR cooler. Main parts are an enhanced short block, two heads, full set of rocker arms and bridges, and an EGR cooler. The powers that be instructed me to repair the assembly. jawohl, mein Ford.

No such thing as negative pressure - Pressure is an absolute value. Maximum pressure forcing oil up the pickup tube is 14.7psi at sea level just as you stated, though. If the pressure drop across the oil screen approaches this number, the flow will cavitate. Some air may be sucked in through the front seal and aerate the oil that does get sucked out of the pan. As for the fine metal screen, Bruce is right - 50-70 psi will blow a lot more oil through that screen than would be possible by suction from the other side alone. Another thing to consider is that the high pressure pump will suction oil into itself... I don't know how much suction it can generate, though...

I elected to put 4 gallons of used ATF and then topped off with diesel. So, this is about a 20% mixture. So far, I have seen no drivability differences, and there is no smoke from the tailpipe. Fuel mileage rose slightly from 14.5 to 17 according to the OTC estimate. I'll be starting a second tank of this mix shortly. Down here in the south, our coldest days just barely cross the freezing mark. This mixture, once homogeneous, still flows well - no visible differences after leaving it in the freezer. I am emboldened to this venture by the fact I have a spare complete engine for this vehicle. So, if an injector tip blows off, or some other catastrophic event, then I'm out the inconvenience of swapping it out. This is our spare vehicle that I'm putting into temporary full time use... I'll let you know how it goes... Oh, and I agree with canned asparagus - as with most canned vegetables. However, Green Giant has this line of sweet corn canned with a minimum of water - very tasty. And Bush's has a line of low sodium black beans that serve very well over scrambled eggs. Add a little salsa and a bit of cheese...

Recently I purchased a used 2002 F-250.. Got it for a great bargain, and even have a spare engine for it. I've been thinking of cutting the diesel fuel with filtered used transmission fluid from our flush machine. I've read that people have run varied concentrations with no or few side effects, and I was in class with someone with an older (1993ish) who runs nothing by 100% used ATF. We are in a non emissions controlled state, and the DOT here doesn't dip non commercial fuel tanks to check for red fuel.. What do you guys think?

That part number is close, Bruce. That is a kit used to wrap the end of the pigtail that goes to the IPR. It's got a velcro flap that wraps the connector, and a sheet of foil to wrap the last 4 inches or so of harness. I appreciate the help, though!

Anyone come up with this part number, yet? I'm swapping an engine in a 6.0 and the old harness doesn't have it's shield...

After flashing several of these trucks recently, I came upon one that choked on the program. After come back and forth with the truck and the hotline, we determine that the truck will require a replacement PCM. The symptom was simply that the truck wouldn't start after programming. Everything else completed properly. During testing to determine the problem, I found that the IDS could correctly identify the vehicle, but for any operation that required the key to be turned on - PMI and others - the IDS would not recognize that the key was on. Interestingly, retrieving continuous codes worked fine. That does require the key to be on, I think. Anyway, a PCM arrives. Installed. Programmed. Parameter reset. Engine no crank. More testing. P161A stored in PCM. Perform parameter reset again. No dice. Hotline contact. Advised to replace BCM, now. No explanation, just do it grease monkey. BCM's are D99. 2400 miles on the odometer... awesome. Here's the hotline transcripts: Quote: Description of vehicle concern: An error occured while programming this vehicle under 10B17. After programming the PCM, the IDS requested I "start or crank the engine for 5 seconds." The engine would not crank. After repeating this request a few more times, the IDS reported that there were several possible reasons - PATS, incorrectly flashed module, etc - and the IDS proceded to program the TCM. The TCM programmed correctly, and the engine still will not start. The IDS also reported that the software level in the PCM is invalid for the truck. Subsequent reprogramming procedures result in the same no start concern. PMI on the PCM, with as-built data retrieved from the web still result in a no start concern. The current IDS session has not been terminated. Diagnostics performed: none Parts replaced: none Question: Have you checked powers and grounds to the PCM and FICM? Answer: no Question: Have you unplugged the fan and Transmission Range sensor and retested? Answer: no Question: Are the modules at the latest calibration? Answer: no Tech's question: May I have some assistance in getting this vehicle programmed, please? Hotline response: Greg, There have been isolated concerns with the FSA 10B17 causing programming concerns, and to help identify what may have happened or what the next step in repairs will be more information will be needed. With the IDS installed and communicating with the vehicle, open the Tech. Log Viewer and obtain the PCM and TCM Filename#, Hardware# and Part Number. Then obtain the NOX Module and GPCM Part Number. Perform a self test and identify if there are any DTCs set then obtain the IDS level. Once this information has been obtained, please update this form with your findings. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Additional Diag/Comments Comment from: technician Comment Date: 9/21/2010 12:23:11 PM All prefixes are BC3A PCM f/n 14C204-DEA, h/l 12B684-JA, p/n 12A650-BVG TCM f/n 14C337-CH, h/l 14F106-CE, p/n 12B565-CE NOX p/n 5K202-BC GPCM p/n 12B553 (no suffix) DTCs: P161A, P1639, P268C/D/E/F, P2690/1/2/3 IDS level: 68.09 Comment from: Hotline Comment Date: 9/21/2010 1:10:26 PM Greg, Thank you for the update. At this point it will be necessary to replace the PCM and open a new session. In the new session, perform a PMI with the new module already installed. When instructed to replace the module, simply wait a few seconds and proceed with the tick and other prompts as if this was done. After all programming is completed, perform the PATS parameter reset to perform the handshake between the IC and PCM. Since this concern occurred while performing an FSA, it will be necessary to inform the Special Services Support Center (SSSC) at 1-800-325-5621. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: Description of vehicle concern: During reprogramming under 10B17, this vehicles engine would not start. After a previous hotline contact, and attempting to recover the PCM, it was decided that this vehicle required a replacement PCM. I have installed the new PCM, performed PMI on it, and went to the PATS menu to reset parameters. I am still retrieving DTC P161A and the engine will not crank. The message "starting system fault" is also displayed in the instrument cluster. Diagnostics performed: Replace pcm, perform PMI, retrieve DTCs, parameter reset several times. DTC Codes: P161a Parts replaced: PCM Question: Have you checked powers and grounds to the PCM and FICM? Answer: no Question: Have you unplugged the fan and Transmission Range sensor and retested? Answer: no Question: Are the modules at the latest calibration? Answer: yes Tech's question: Why wont P161A clear, and why doesnt parameter reset work properly? Hotline response: Greg, The Parameter Reset concern is due to the interaction between the IDS, the new PCM and the original BCM. At this time it is recommended to replace the BCM to repair this vehicle. Follow the BCM Removal and Installation procedure outlined in WSM section 419-01 then retest for a normal start/run. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Additional Diag/Comments Comment from: technician Comment Date: 9/27/2010 9:34:16 PM I will order a BCM tomorrow. Should I seek additional approval from the Special Service Support Center, as this ongoing concern was originally related to the recall? Also, could you go into more detail regarding this failed interaction between the PCM, BCM and IDS? Will this be remedied in a future IDS release, or is this a programming fault in the BCM? Could the current condition have been predicted prior to ordering and installing the PCM? Thanks. Comment from: Hotline Comment Date: 9/28/2010 7:12:30 AM Greg, yes you will need to contact the Special Service Support Center to make sure this is documented and approval is given. Thank you. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hotline sent me a survey. I tore them up on it...

I've had a few in for repair already... One had a P207F, DEF fluid contamination, and a message stating speed will be limited to 55mph in some number of miles. No pinpoint test for this conde. Called hotline, did a dosing test - ok. Replace NOX sensor. Sensor was on intergalactic backorder so by the time the customer returned for the part his vehicle was reporting that the vehicle will be idled at the next fillup, and he had 8 miles until empty.. Another one was a check engine light and P132B. Failed some pinpoint test step, referred to turbo replacement. Didn't feel right about it and contacted hotline again. Engineer came out and we reran the test, still failed. Went and did the same testing to a brand new unit and it failed the same test. This customer also complained about a low oil pressure warning at times, and I think the two are related. The VGT sweep test runs within the first 20 seconds of engine start. If there is no oil pressure, the VGT will not sweep and it will set a P132B... For now, hotline advised no repair and await a calibration update... My confidence in the product remains consistant...

At the first dealer I worked at, we used the label "preferred customer" to mean "asshole." it even appeared on the RO..

Well, if we're going to talk about avatars - mine is a reference to Funky Phantom from the '70s cartoon. My little one really likes those old cartoons, and Boomerang on DTV carries all that stuff. This animated .gif is from a clip mocking Funky Phantom off of an adult oriented cartoon. I picked those ten frames because it was auto-oriented. Here's a clip: I lean towards the absurd, as you can see.. Republipunkassbitch. Cracks me up every time. Not as significant nor as historic as Jim's.... But I hope it makes someone else on here smile...

I went back and re-read the old post - I was surprised to see how similar and different me and my family are to how we were then. We are still into astronomy. Our planned vacation this year included verifying that we will be in darker skies than we have here, and we'll be going when the moon is not full. My daughter wanted to spend her allowance on buying some plants a few months ago. We said sure, and she selected a watermelon plant, a jalapeno plant, some sugar snap peas, a blackberry and a blueberry bush. This has sparked an interest in gardening with us, and we're going to section off part of our property to make a real garden. We're even starting to compost kitchen scraps in preperation for it. My little one is going into second grade next year - hard to believe she's growing so fast. She's entering the gifted program. We've mostly completed our game room in the garage. I refelted the pool table, and the dart board and stereo are up. I'll still need to come up with a curtain of some sort to protect my mustang from any errant pool balls that get shot off the table... And I'll be starting on a MAME machine (multiple arcade machine emulator) soon - one of my coworkers has a warehouse full of old arcade machines, and she's selling me one. The activities are a little different... But the underlying theme is the same - spending time with my family... Thanks, Keith, for reviving this topic.

So I've got our first sold unit in here for the second time in it's short life... First time was at 500 miles, and the owner stated that the oil pressure warning message appeared while driving. Check it out, unable to duplicate concern. Verify that the oil pressure pid changes from "not low" to "low" within 5 seconds of key off. Nope - takes more like 20 seconds most of the time. Drop in another oil pressure switch, retest, and now it takes less than 5 seconds to read low pressure. Ship the unit. Now, 1000 miles later, the owner comes back in and says that the check engine lamp is on, and the oil pressure warning has come on again while driving. Go to the code - P132B. Follow pinpoint test KA, leads to turbo replacement. Check OASIS, nothing, so I order parts. Manager asks me to submit a hotline contact, and they have a few other tests for me to run - W10 and W11 for EGR valve position, and do the turbo wastegate adjustment. Both of these procedures come back ok. Hotline requests a tech assist. So the engineer comes out yesterday, we rerun the pinpoint test, and still come to the same conclusion - needs a turbo. But I'm not really feeling it - the owner never said anything about a loss of power... The exact step that is failing is KA16, which has us close the EGR valve, set EGRTP to 5%, close the wastegate, command 1500RPM, and cycle the VGT. At 0% VGT, the MAP should be within 5% of BARO, and at 100% VGT, the MAP should increase by at least 10psi. Ours only increased 7psi, so it failed. Before committing to installing a turbo, we decide to check a brand new truck. Sure enough, KA16 returns 7psi increase on another truck... Uh oh... Anyway, there is speculation that the oil pressure problem may not be sensor or harness related, but an actual loss of oil pressure. That would prevent the VGT from actuating properly during the intrusive test at engine start and setting the P132B. By the way, if you get a chance, check out the workshop procedure for replacing the turbo. Specifically the portion on removing the upper downpipe assembly. It's not written yet, and looking at the truck it seems that access to the cinch bolt part way down the downpipe is rather limited...

Here's the broken rod cap bolt picture...

I had one some time ago that had a rod cap bolt back out or break... The cap separated from the rod slightly, allowing the piston to rise higher in the cylinder, and pause before descending when the crankshaft pulled it down. Popping noise in the intake was the symptom, and the initial finding was a broken rocker arm on one valve. Should be a picture or two on here...

You can also put the fat o-ring into it's pocket on the front cover, then take a lubed up paint scraper and lay it on top of the o-ring. Set your front cover into place, levering the paint scraper down to clear the intake, then once the front cover is bolted in, slide the paint scraper out.

I've seen it on remans, too... Ground the paint off the old pan after the repair and found a crack filled with JB Weld, sanded smooth and then painted. The crack probably spread and cracked the JB, and the oil worked it's way through the paint.

Not so much a "quick" disconnect, but years ago I installed a pressure line on a Taurus SHO. Started the engine up, turned the wheel to lock, and promptly blew the line out of the fitting. Got another line, snaked it in there, tighened it up, and blew that one off too. Turns out that the awkward angle of my wrench allowed the face of my wrench to remain in contact with the 90 degree block at the end of the line. As I tightened the fitting into the pump, it slowly pulled the fitting away from the end of the line. A little hydraulic pressure finished the job. Being young and naive, I slapped another line in it, expecting a different result. After the second line blew, and I discovered the cause, I simply snapped the line back into the fitting. If that car is still on the road, it probably has that same line still on it...

#8 got the same part number as #3. I remember the long lead injector for cackle, but the parts department only showed one part number. I assumed that this concern is not present in '01, but I'll double check that this morning. The truck ran perfect right off the bat after both injector replacements. In between replacing the two injectors, the engine had time to cool down. It ran just fine then too. When the engine warms up, that's when the problems start. The remaining six injectors should have come with the 6006 engine that was installed about 100,000 miles ago. I have no injector kill box to use on this truck. The coolant used in the engine is the most inferior, cheapest coolant possible. No additives had been used. So, yes, issues caused by coolant condition are a possibility. Thanks for the help so far...

360,000 miles on this unit, probably about 100,000 miles on this engine. Towed in to us with a massive fuel leak, and we find the line to the right side head has chaffed on the bracket under the turbo. Slap in a new line, and send him on his way. He turns around 20 minutes later and comes back, saying he's got a misfire and smoking blue/black from the tailpipe. We bring it back in and do a little testing. Find that #3 fails a KOER cylinder contribution test. Jumping the starter with the key off shows us a nice even crank - no crow hopping. Turbo fins are sharp and square. Put in an injector, road test, and when I get back from our 6 mile route, the truck is fuel knocking at idle and rolling fuel smelling smoke. KOER contribution test again, this time shows #8. Go to perdelta and see that everyone is happy at 0% except #8 at 10%. Get approval for another injector. Install and road test - same song and dance after 6 miles. Perdelta is 10% for #8, KOER contribution shows #8. Remove degas jug cap to check for fuel in the coolant and I find a gray milkshake with no smell. Call the customer to see about when these difficulties started. They were a little more forthcoming now - they said that they've had oil in the coolant many, many times. They've replaced the oil cooler two or three times, but the problem persists. What they do is when the truck runs like this, they flush the cooling system out with a water hose, fill it back up with antifreeze, and they are good to go for another week. Wha? Am I looking at a cracked cup on #8 (or elsewhere). I did not inspect the #8 cup - although I did look at #3 and didn't find anything wrong. Why would flushing the coolant make it run better?

I understand the uncertainty in the measured weight in the seat. But aren't we talking about the RCM using this information to choose one of three options? No fire, fire loop 1, or fire loop 2? If so, I would think a hyper accurate weight is not necessary. Can it fire loop 1 and 2 simultaneously for another option? Does it also time the firing differently depending on the weight? Would it also time it based on seat track position if it's got that sensor? The strategy behind these things is fascinating...