forddieseldoctor

Well too bad. He can’t have it. It’s mine now. But in all seriousness I think it’s a leftover from what they run through a punch press. I’m just curious how it made it 6000 miles in the valve body before it gave issues.

I pulled a main control apart on a 2019 transit connect today. Has the intermittent reverse problem and had codes for clutch a stuck on. I found what I believe to be extra parts that fell out of the main control from somewhere. I can’t find it in the book. We ordered a main control for it. Anyone have any idea as to what this is?

This one had aftermarket turbos that an indy shop put on it. It went back there for warranty on them. Have not seen it since.

We pulled the tank out of the truck and did some investigating on how the fuel flows through the lines and the filter. I’m gonna refer to the ports on the fuel conditioning module by number from top to bottom in my picture with #4 being the port that is turned 90 degrees from the rest of them. #1. The filter housing is under suction just like the previous body style’s filter. #2. The line that the book calls the “return line” is actually the line that draws fuel from the tank into the filter on port #2. #3. The fuel flows through the filter assembly , out port #1 and then goes into the fuel pump and gets pressurized. There is actually an arrow on the filter housing to indicate direction of flow. #4. Fuel leaves the pump and goes to the secondary filter and the hpfp. #5. Fuel returns to the fuel conditioning module on port #4 and then if the fuel is warm enough back to the tank. Otherwise if it’s too cold it gets sent right back through the filter to the pump and back to the motor.

I saw that. I need the inlet to the filter from the pump. I believe that one is return from motor after it goes through the filter housing and heads back to the tank.

I have a guy who wants me to install an aftermarket inline fuel heater on his 17 F450. It needs to go in the line that goes into the filter from the tank. I cannot find a description of which line is which between the pump and filter and I would rather not unplug them all and power up the pump to see which one sprays. Can anyone help me out with this?

I think he’s as good as fired right now. (I’m pushing the subject very very hard) I helped him time it properly and i laid out all the bolts I took out the night before after he left. Told him where they all went. Then I walked away to go do other stuff. We found half the bolts in the garbage can after he left. And we found a bunch of parts that he didn’t even bother to put in the engine when he replaced the short block. Plus a bunch of missing hardware and brackets that we think hit the garbage last week.

I told him when he showed up this morning that he didn’t have the crank locked against the peg when he torqued the bolt. He argued with me about it claiming that he did. I looked right at him and told him to quit lying to my face.

One of our monkeys put a short block in a fusion. Broke the original oil pump and destroyed the tone ring on the crank pulley. Replaced oil pump and pulley. Put it all the way together and it don’t start. He couldn’t figure it out so they gave it to me. It’s getting another oil pump, crank pulley and we get a new tool for aligning the crank pulley. And management doesn’t wanna chew on him for this mess because they are afraid he will walk out.

That would be the smart way to do it. My dealership has done nothing smart in at least a year.

So they ordered all the parts for and scheduled 3 of these without reading everything and checking to see what upfit body is on them. Or the realization that if it happens to be one of the bodies all 3 of them get the top frame bracket per wheelbase and that you may have to remove the body to install the bracket. I work with a bunch of freaking retards.

Someone needs an ass chewing. Sad part is management will probably say something to the effect of they are all we have to work with and good help is hard to find.

I tried to get an 18k hoist a couple years ago. They got me a 12k instead. I send upper oil pans on anything too heavy for that hoist away.

Interesting. According to the pdf not following the directions 100% or having poor workmanship is considered a failure.

The good news for me is that there is no way we could handle taking the upfit body off at our shop. So they would refer the customer to a different dealer anyway.

Yeah those gotta suck…

Cracked frame recall? What’s this on?

That’ll teach them to take it broke. What part of low oil pressure don’t people get.

Now they made it a tsb. But only if you have 10th gear problems. Along with harsh engagements. And I got a 2020 6.2 with the proper code for the tsb.

Spec is WSS-M2C214-B1. Amsoil claims to be at that level.

The only variable displacement oil system I played with was on a 1.5. When it started cold the pressure moved up and down to verify that the variable part was working. That system never moved the pressure when it was commanded and threw low oil pressure codes even though it had enough pressure to satisfy the spec.

Yup. This one was customer pay at least. Guy removed inner fender for some reason or another. And never put it back in. Fuse box took the hit.

I had one the other day that was already at the latest calibration too.

I got one with a knocking noise. 2100 miles on a 21. Pulled the valve covers just for giggles. Didn’t find anything out of place. Went to submit a hotline request and I found a previous request that talks about a cracked oil pump drive gear. Waiting to pull the oil pan to verify.

Still a pain in the butt none the less.