forddieseldoctor

Since the service ports are on both either side of the ttx valve. If the ttx valve was stuck shut aka not letting anything through the high side should be way high, and the low side should be way low. If the valve was stuck open aka letting everything through the high side would be lower than normal and the low side should be higher than normal BUT NOT 300 psi high. The stuck ttx valve theory does not explain for both of the pressures to reach the 300 psi plus mark.

Umm... We had one this morning. The question I have is if the TTX valve was stuck wouldn't the low side be very low? Not pegged high with the high side? I think it's more along the lines of the 2012ish escapes where it needs a receiver dryer. That's what I told the tech working on it to put in it. After he recovered the system our a/c machine kept purging air. When he tried to recharge the system the machine purged air for almost 5 minutes before it would charge the truck. Which in my mind doesn't say stuck valve. Anyone have any other thoughts?

I totally agree about not throwing parts. I bugged hotline with the first one I had and that was where they pointed me. And when I pulled the line off there was no pressure there. The pressure drops and the fuel vaporizes in the rail causing the long crank. Or so hotline claims. I went after the purge valve first too. I blocked the line off and let it hot soak to verify it.

Fuel pimps bleeding back. I’ve done a couple of them now. All 17 through 19’s. I didn’t have the correct adapter the first time for fuel pressure either, but when I unhooked the line to see what end I needed there was nothing there for pressure.

They just keep billing the same can over and over.

Truck appears to be bone stock. I got another recording. This time I was cruising at 45 or 50 mph and came to a hill and tried to maintain speed and it fell on it’s face for a couple seconds till it downshifted. Game plan for Monday is to remove and inspect ebp, map sensor and clean maf sensor. Along with check air filter just for giggles. I did monitor the trans pids along with the egt and egrt pids. Everything looks normal to me. Hotline was no help what so ever. They told me that since ppt ka said it needs turbos to put turbos on and retest. 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬 I didn’t feel the need to even bother wasting my time on the phone with them to try and get anything else out of them.

I got an 08 F350 with the magnificent 6.4 in it. Every once in a while it falls on it's face coming out of a stop sign. Sometimes it feels like a stuck turbo on a 6.0 (a little laggy off the line, but will pick up at higher speeds) and sometimes it won't go over 10 mph until you pull over and try again. It has a P2263 for turbocharger boost performance. I verified that the vgt stay at 95% most of the time while driving and the ebp actual pid is way too low compared to the ebp desired pid. The customer had a pair of internet special turbos put on about a year ago and both the ebp sensor and tube were replaced while chasing this concern at another shop. But I found another interesting thing when I left a stop and couldn't get over 12 mph on the flat at half throttle. It gets very hollow sounding and the cackle noise goes away completely. And I noticed in the recording I made of it that the TQ_CNTRL pid is cycling rapidly from "none" to "tip in throttle". I stopped on the side of the road to change datalogger over to trans so I could look at the speed sensor readings I never put it in park, just sat with my foot on the brake and when I took off again it was done acting up. I looked back at the other recordings I made earlier in the day and verified that when it had the noticeable lack of power it had that pid cycling then too. I inspected both speed sensors on the trans and I don't see any obvious rust jacking on them. I performed ppt KA and it's telling me to inspect and replace the turbos as needed, but I really don't think that's gonna fix the bigger issue at hand. Anyone got any input on what is causing the pid to cycle? I'm currently waiting for hotline to get back to me.

Air test it from the port on the pump. You can listen through the oil filler and the breather box to try and determine side before you split it open.

I had one that had the icp sensor plug on the left oil rail was loose and blew the o-ring out and had a long crank after hot soak.

Me too.

We run Automate. Switched from reynolds about 8 years ago.

I just deleted the microsoft edge folder on the c drive. But after about a week it fixes itself and I have to break it again. Hotline suggested that I uninstall edge. But there is no good simple way to do that.

Pto wires are still under the rh end of the dash by the sjb. Upfitter got moved to the passenger side. Pass through wires are buried deep on the passenger side and so freaking short I gave up on trying to use them for anything. Publications | Body Builder Advisory Service If you click on 2020 F-series it lays it all out

I did one. It came out the front at that time.

But in all seriousness is your truck (or any superduties for that matter) equipped with global open?

Wow. Just wow.

30k on a 17 and I had seized engine cradle bolts that I ended up breaking one off trying to service the egr system on a 3.2.

Welcome to the world of transits. Ford’s best selling giant pile of garbage.

Do you have a pic of the old sensor or what was left of it? And what is the flat surface on the right side of the picture? Is that the bearing journal?

No idea what is supposed to be in there, but is there a chance that the extra piece is part of the old cam sensor? And since it’s noisy everywhere else what’s the rest of the cam look like?

Nothing concrete. My theory is that after it reaches a certain concentration level it it able to burn off the excess hence not allowing it to continue to grow. Service manager decided we are gonna replace the hpfp and change oil and have the customer come to us so we can monitor it.

Working on a 2017 Navigator that supposedly makes about a quart of oil in the first 500 miles of an oil change cycle and the holds that level for the rest of the interval. 60k on it. Customer says it’s been doing it since he bought it 12k ago. Oil smells faintly like fuel. Customer is a tech at an indy shop. He sent out two oil samples and both of them have come back with high levels of fuel in the oil. 10% the first sample at 5k. 5% the second sample with (I think) 1k on the oil. Customer bought and replaced the high pressure fuel pump with an oe one himself. Hotline had me perform cylinder leakage test and check for fuel in the cylinders after a hot to cold soak. I have done every fuel system test in the ids. Now they want me to drain the oil and leave it sit overnight with the drain plug out and turn the low pressure pump on and off several times and see if I get gas coming out of the drain plug. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

What about the possibility of a leaking cac? Boost leaking into the cooling system.

Good to know.