forddieseldoctor

Very interesting. Too bad it was apart a couple of times before you found that.

Only seen one. No love lost here if they drop it.

I’ve had a chance to use it a couple times. I’m running between 1 and 2 for speed. It’s great for the bigger items but you have to have the discipline to keep moving. Because if you let go of the trigger it backs up the pusher 1/8 inch and at the low speeds it takes a bit to start pushing silicone again. I still throw the tube into my mechanical gun for jobs that needs a spot or two such as valve covers or front covers that have gaskets.

So the studbolt wasn't replaced with a regular bolt. It was broke off flush. I found the busted off piece laying in the upper oil pan while I was cleaning the rest of the silicone off the motor. I still have no idea why it broke.

Straight from the owners manual.

Oops. Google changed the suffix on me. Bad google. No cookie. Are you trying to change something on yours?

If you can believe what is out there on the internet it’s a 34 gallon.

What does ficmsync show? Ficmsync is way more sensitive than sync is. If ficmsync drops out then the first thing to check is for a rust jacked cam sensor.

We still check wheels with a torque wrench after the car is on the ground. That became shop policy about 6 or 7 years ago. But for the record it is amazing how much difference there is from wheel to wheel when you check the torque on some vehicles. 11 and up explorers seem to be the worst.

How does that work with torque sticks? Or did you buy a one-key impact?

No. It was not leaking. Another dealer resealed the cover because it was leaking. I got it with a P0017 and a light knock at idle. Found the studbolt for the left chain tensioner was replaced with a bolt and the right tensioner had a broken spring clip. I just don’t understand why they woulda taken the chains off to reseal the cover. Cause I find it hard to believe it made 60k with the bottom 1/3 of the right guide unsupported.

Just because parts gives you the whole tube of silicone doesn’t mean you need to use it….

I dunno. But I’ve never heard anything smaller than a 1” gun go ugga dugga.

I make my manager do those. But I do the cost cap and prior approval for the factory warranty.

No they are not. Those are semi air brakes. If they are stud style wheels (budd or flange nuts) they slide over the hub just like a pickup. Spoke wheels are a different story but I’ve never really messed with those.

Yeah… especially since I know what size vehicle those brakes are on.

You find that? Or borrow the picture from somewhere else?

The overheating of the dpf is my thoughts on why they posted the message. Way too much raw “fuel” in there for it to regen without toasting the dpf. And yes I agree that letting a truck go with an overloaded dpf is not good either.

Yeah what Keith said. If you have injector ckt codes it’s probably a ficm since all your ckts ohm out. If it’s just a contribution code then at this point it’s probably an injector. I recommend testing fuel pressure any time you replace an injector on a 6.0 since poor fuel pressure will eat injectors.

And I picked up the milwaukee 3/8 18 volt impact that’s rated for 600 lbs/ft for a friend. I should get a chance to play with that tomorrow.

I picked up a milwaukee 12 volt caulk gun today. I’ll let you guys know how it works with silicone once I get to use it.

It’s making me think long and hard about making changes.

I used to run snap-on cordless impacts till the old nicad batteries all died. Now we run milwaukee both at home and at work. Impacts are 18 volts in both 3/8 and 1/2. I’ve trashed 2 of the 3/8 ones already under warranty. I just recently bought the 1/4 ratchet and the 3/8 ratchet. I have enough batteries that charging isn’t an issue. I’m looking at a caulk gun as my next purchase. Sick of squeezing out silicone for oil pans and front covers.

Yeah. What he says. Grab the block off tools and go to work. My guess is crap ipr since it’s intermittent. Just make sure the nut is tight on the ipr valve first. I think the block off plugs we have are that blackish color that otc used for everything. Other thing to remember is to check icp voltage not just pressure.

Fusion hcu check and change fluid to dot 4.