forddieseldoctor

Nothing concrete. My theory is that after it reaches a certain concentration level it it able to burn off the excess hence not allowing it to continue to grow. Service manager decided we are gonna replace the hpfp and change oil and have the customer come to us so we can monitor it.

Working on a 2017 Navigator that supposedly makes about a quart of oil in the first 500 miles of an oil change cycle and the holds that level for the rest of the interval. 60k on it. Customer says it’s been doing it since he bought it 12k ago. Oil smells faintly like fuel. Customer is a tech at an indy shop. He sent out two oil samples and both of them have come back with high levels of fuel in the oil. 10% the first sample at 5k. 5% the second sample with (I think) 1k on the oil. Customer bought and replaced the high pressure fuel pump with an oe one himself. Hotline had me perform cylinder leakage test and check for fuel in the cylinders after a hot to cold soak. I have done every fuel system test in the ids. Now they want me to drain the oil and leave it sit overnight with the drain plug out and turn the low pressure pump on and off several times and see if I get gas coming out of the drain plug. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

What about the possibility of a leaking cac? Boost leaking into the cooling system.

Good to know.

What kind of price tag is on a set like that?

My parts guy handed me a partial case of motorcraft full synthetic mercon. From what I understand I can use it in place of regular mercon in my 4r100 trans in my superduty. Can anyone verify this?

I just finished installing a 6” suspension lift on a brand new 2020 F250. Got a 16 F150 with a junk 3.5 ecoboost that the owner decided to try running 24,000 miles between oil changes. And an 04 F150 with a suspected broken od band that’s getting a reman.

We are busy in the shop for the moment. But I heard a rumor that not all the dealers in my area are so lucky.

I spent a good part of my weekend troubleshooting internet at people’s houses trying to get the most speed out of it. Cause EVERYONE with a desk job is working from home and they all need a serious chunk of bandwidth to run their stuff. My brother is whining that his 5 mbps dsl can’t keep up.

It was pretty scarce on the roads around here this morning too. All the grocery stores are empty. As of wednesday all the schools are gonna shut down for 4 weeks. Church was about 1/3 of normal yesterday.

Tomorrow morning it’s gonna be my 7.3. My battery cable broke off at the starter today.

I think it just gets billed as on outside part.

Super clean works well too.

I’ve done them both ways. I prefer the out the bottom method. I don’t remember messing with the subframe to get it out. Just the engine cradle.

I remember the very early ones very early in their lives had a pcm that wouldn’t reset once it went to an idle only fault. But I seem to think that they fixed that issue.

Holy wow!!!

I leaned into it against the edge of the counter in parts and I could only get 825 newtons.

We received our force gauge today. One of the guys in the shop was in the process of reassembling one that he had used the torque wrench to test. I grabbed the force gauge and decided to try it out. I could not physically exert enough force to reach the 850 newtons of force that is required. I'm not a small person either. What has everyone else been doing to manage to get enough push on this stupid little box to reach the required limit?

Oops. I mixed up 6.0 and a gas motor. Disregard the cht question. What’s the eot read when the coolant temp says low?

Is that actually ect and not cht? If I remember right the ect sensor on those only make the gauge work and the pcm never sees it.

Um... just an fyi that unit is on RTTP for $140.

I had a 2013 F350 chassis cab with the 6.2 in it that was setting a P06B6 for PCM knock sensor internal processor fault. The only pinpoint test steps listed in the pced is to reflash the PCM to the latest level, clear codes and if it comes back then replace the PCM. I looked at it initially and then one of my co-workers put the module in it. A week later it is back with the same code. Ended up finding the #7 coil arching intermittently between where the wire for the second plug attaches and the coil plug. But it never had a misfire. Replaced the coil and plug wire and the code did not return.

Mine was very glitchy today and froze a couple times throughout the day.

Got to fix a botched trailer backup camera install on a horse trailer.