forddieseldoctor

I'm gonna say no. There is nothing listed about the upfitter switches under customer access in the wiring diagram. And the trailer brake controller is the standard rectangular one that ford has used for decades. As far as brake controllers I would highly recommend that you find an inertia based one instead of one of the timer based ones. Tekonsha makes a bunch of nice ones and that's the brand that I have always used. And another note on the 05 Excursions. They suspension and steering is the same as the 04 super duty's. They did not put the 05 and up super duty coil spring suspension under them and the 05 and up super duty wheels will not sit right as the offset is different.

I’ll try to remember to crack the wiring book open in the am and have a look.

I’ve had 2 trucks that had leaking injectors that messed with the compression readings. I know relative for sure, but I don’t remember about manual compression.

Was this before or after replacing the fuel system?

What’s an indentifier? Oh wait... I remember seeing one of those once at the Ford training center.

We had a 17 550 with 20k on it that had the same thing. We evacuated and recharged and it’s working now. The system was not low.

The pced and coffee table book both say that the ebp sensor on a 7.3 is only used for operatig the back pressure valve. I call bs. I replaced my rotted apart ebp tube on my 2000 tonight. There is a huge difference in how the truck shifts and the engine seems peppier.

When you pull the hpop it will drain the resivor. If you look closely the inlet port for the pump is lower than the resivor.

You could just do the backyard fix that’s been showing up around here on the superduty’s. Cut the crossmember out and then re-weld it back in. Cause that’s the right way to fix a rotted out oil pan. NOT!!!!!!

I always just tugged the whole thing out. That way I can invert the sucker so the silicone can cure the right way.

I do believe that if you open the pump you make junk out of it. And I do agree that your hpop probably has issues.

If you set the meter to ohms and put one lead in the ohms/volts port and the other one in the amps port. The meter will read ol if the fuse is failed.

Do you know how to test fuses in the meter without opening it up? I check mine everytime before I start testing.

Plus the range isn’t there yet on the electric cars.

Good luck with that. The biggest point I have is if the one dealer wouldn’t deal with you when you were still on their payroll I would have serious reservations about returning to there. My thoughts about leaving a job are that if it was bad enough to make me wanna leave I’m gonna be really desperate before I’m gonna go back there.

SHAME ON YOU for thinking logically!!! You know that’s not allowed.

No I did not. I put a motor in it and I got a chance to talk to him about trying to cut the idle time down when he picked it up. But last night I did grab the vin from ids, threw it into oasis and double clicked on the vin in the oaisis page on pts and in the build sheet it listed “Engine Shutdown Timer”

I got a customer with a couple of 16’s in his fleet with boxes on the back and we had the discussion about his guys letting them idle way too much. (Just over 50% of engine hours are idle) Does anyone know if there is an idle timer on the Transit van diesels that can be activated?

How bout the guy who decided that it’s too much work to install the dowels on the 3.2 at the factory. Or the guy who designed the Transit period.

And probably way more toxic too.

I only dozed off 3 times during the 3.0 diesel training video.

I wish they would quit putting out these webinars that we have to sit and spend 2 hours watching and if you get interrupted and don't make note of where you are in the video you get stuck back at the beginning.

Good. I tried .002 on the one I did and it moved it up to 50. It’s really just trial and error. And if you use a little bit of record keeping it helps keep the error at a minimum.

I just built one a week or two ago. If you reduce the shim under the outer bearing by .001” you should come out right. When I do them I lay out all the shims on a piece of paper and measure each one individually and add them up. It makes it way faster when I have to adjust one.

I got a 16 3.2 Transit that melted the #2 piston. They ran it till it stalled.