forddieseldoctor

We have seen a major issue with wheel bearings being seized into the knuckles, especially the rears. We have ended up removing the whole knuckle and remove the hub and bearing with the shop press. 11 and up explorers. Anyone got any tricks to getting these out?

I saw those in my email this morning too.

The best kneeling pad I’ve ever used was one of those square flotation seat style life preserver things. I need to get one for at work.

47394 2013-2018 F-150, 2015-2018 Transit/Expedition, 2015-2017 Navigator - 3.5L EcoBoost - Engine Tick Type Noise From Cylinder Block Some 2013-2018 F-150, 2015-2018 Transit/Expedition, and 2015-2017 Navigator vehicles equipped with a 3.5L EcoBoost engine with greater than 20,000 miles may exhibit a tick type noise from the cylinder block area. This noise may be caused by a cracked piston skirt. The noise can be isolated to a cylinder using a stethoscope or other suitable listening device. Canceling the affected cylinder will reduce or eliminate the noise. If the noise is isolated to a specific cylinder, it is recommended to replace the short block. If the noise cannot be isolated using the methods described, refer to the Workshop Manual (WSM) for diagnosis. A cracked piston skirt does not result in metal contamination of the engine or any related cylinder head damage. Prior approval for short block replacement is not required under new vehicle limited warranty coverage. EFFECTIVE DATE: 29-JUNE-2018

My hat is off to you. But I do kneel on a square of carpet instead of the concrete. Especially since bad knees run pretty strong in my dad’s family.

Did the videos work?

I found a message today about cracked piston skirts on some of the 3.5 ecoboost motors. Your truck should be included in that. I’ll try and remember to find it again tomorrow.

We had one the other day that sounded like it was knocking from the bottom end. 103,000 miles on a 13 f150. Cut the oil filter open and found this.

I so wish I had the hoist to be able to do that. I’d be stuck working on this one on my back.

1947 cadilac.

I had one with a very similar issues. It got a hpop, and icp sensor. Icp still wouldn’t build over 2400 psi. Replaced the ipr, still no change. Pulled the ficm relay and cranked it over. It would only build 700 psi with the ipr at 85%. The truck starts perfectly with a perfectly normal crank times hot and cold. I removed both valve covers and had an assistant crank it and found out that I had a cracked oil rail on the right side. 1BC57191-4D4F-41B4-AC40-DD68300D877D.MOV 3EEEB692-3BCF-4F25-9043-31038A45C1BC.MOV

Yeah right. It just means that I get to do everything that requires certifications or the ids. (Since I havd the only functoning one in the building) And it’s gonna be a long time before I get any good paying stuff like brakes and suspension work.

As of 5pm today I am the only tech in my dealership with any Ford certs.

I think they musta re-hired the guy who designed the aerostar and let him have free reign.

I have come to the conclusion that the word "Transit" must mean "biggest piece of shit ever" in some other language. I just haven't found it yet.

Since you don’t have a scope I agree with Bruce. Cam sensors are way more common to rust jack and it usually deystroys the sensor. At least in my experiences.

The timing tool is in the osciliscope menu. You have to have either the vmm or vcmm to use it. The one that hotline helped me diagnoise a few years ago I could not tell anything through the hole but the osciliscope pattern was off. The repair would have been a short block and the guy got all bent and told us we were full of shit and his buddy was a diesel tech and he says that could never happen. The first picture I borrowed from the timing tool pdf file located under the service tips tab on pts. It explains exactly what it is supposed to look like. The second picture was what mine looked like. I was off a half of tooth and it was enough to give me weird intermittent lack of power and cause the sync pid to switch when the concern was present.

If the sync is dropping out like that you might have a loose crank sensor tone ring. The 6.0 timing tool on the ids will show it the easiest. Otherwise you can pull the oil pan and see if the ring moves.

I feel the egr tube is the biggest pain for removing the intake.

I saw it once, but I can’t remember how I got rid of it.

Now why would you want to make an egr cooler easily accessible? It’s not like they ever fail.

The whole van design should go the way of the dinosaurs.

Just wait till you gotta do compression on it. The glow plugs are under the intake manifold.

I got 2 words for you.... Flex Seal.