8WA Sman

Since I have never experienced what I would call a radiator or water pump problem in a PSD.When these problems occur what's the water quality,coolant quality,t-stat opperation, coolant tank cap, and are the outside of the coolers/heat exchanger free of debris/blockage?

Not sure if I am correctly reading the OBDII theory and op for a 2013 6.7 but it looks like anything over 43 will set a P0234. Now I am not sure if this is manifold absolute pressure or gauge pressure 2010 6.4 P0234 The DTC is set and the wrench light is illuminated when the manifold gauge pressure (MGP) exceeds 245 kPa (35.5 psi).

My nephew works at a Chrysler dealership, he said send the head out. He also said to check the exhuast valve stem real close for damage. The reason the top end gasket is $900 is because it includes the valve cover gasket.

I would get the parts from Cummins(usually a better price) and probably change the CCV filter if it has not been done in the last 50k. I have never done head gaskets on a 6.7 Cummins but you may be able to find better info from Cummins then Dodge. I also seem to remember something funky about the injector feed tubes. This engine also does not like an overfull crankcase, I was told to only put 11 quarts in.

I have spent countless hours researching fluids and this now my take. Coolant and pretty much any fluid that goes into vehicles is specialized/engineered and has been for quite some time. Tell them what the OE recommends and move on, if they/the customer doesn't want to use the OE fluid let figure out as to why???..either by research or paying the stupid tax. Now my research time on fluids is spent trying to make sure that I use the correct fluid. The general consensus on the Orange coolant Ford uses (similar to Dex-cool) seems to be that two of the things it doesn't like is.. air/oxygen and being mixed with uncompatible fluids.

So I own a '00 Windstar and the 10S13 was done correctly as far as bracket spacing but it looks like some of the glue is coming loose. Are the new axles updated in design? Mine does not appear to be cracked or damaged that I can tell. Any thoughts on getting the axle replaced under the 15N02, I am not opposed to coughing up $300 for a new axle but if the new ones are the same and if they don't just break if they are not structurally rusted I am not sure I see the point. Just curious what everyone else has been seeing.

Here is some info I found in the PC/ED on the FRP in a gas engine. Note: Most mechanical gauges are referenced to atmospheric pressure. The FRP sensor is referenced to manifold pressure. In order to make a valid comparison, the engine must be off.

Just curious what year your Transit was? 2015 WSM list the spec at 4.4 - 11.6 PSI and PC/ED states anything under 2.5 PSI for 60 seconds will set the P008A I am not trying to be a smart Ace, by the way. Just hoping to maybe save someone frustration on the next one.

Manual gauge and FRP usually do Not match, here is a link http://www.underhoodservice.com/under-pressure-maintaining-fords-electronic-returnless-fuel-system/ Maybe this is what you meant by syncs up.. just making sure. This is also posted in the WSM and probably in training, Sorry feeling lazy... I tried to find the info from a Ford document.

Had '11 today with a P1249 and P24A5. EGR vacuum hose going from the EGR cooler bypass valve solenoind to actuator was broke and brittle. Put in a piece of stock vac hose until next week.

I used to always do it by feel until I had a redo every 12k to 15K on a F-Series 6.0L with DRW(Once for free). The problem was actually 2 fold the spindle seal surface had wear and with DRW the extra leverage on the rotor was making the problem worse. I now set wheel bearings based on pre-load. As a side note I have replaced more then one E-Series spindle for seal surface wear, anything over 200k is likely to need a spindle. I have only noticed seal surface wear on vehicles newer then 2000 model year.

Anyone have documentation or info on where the 2 little clips go on the newer style TRW brakes. I have searched SI, asked TRW and various other resources and can't seem to find a defiant answer. I have always put it on the outer pad @ the bottom.

Links on connector and pigtails This should be the connector body for newer Ford MAF sensors (including the 6.7) http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/1438153-5/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKrX3BkJxq4CtzCA8QYePzME%3d AMP/TYCO http://www.te.com/usa-en/products/connectors/automotive-connectors.html Tyco Catalog.pdf ACDelco pigtails: http://www.acdelc...i/wiring-connectors/ Terminal Supply Co. http://terminalsu...g/TSCfullcatalog.pdf Mouser Electronics automotive terminals: http://www.mouser...efine.aspx?N=2355233 Ballenger Motorsports: http://www.bmotor.../index.php/cPath/109 White Products terminals/connectors/tools: http://whiteproducts.com/index.shtml Deutch IPD: http://www.deutschconnector.com/ FCI automotive connectors/terminals: http://portal.fci...omotive+applications Nissan terminals/connectors:https://techmate.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/searchresults.aspx?search=pigtail Mopar Info : http://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/conkits/connectorkits_navigation.htm http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm Alternator Info with pics http://www.dixie-electric.com/ecat.html EPC/PKC http://www.pkcgroup.com/wiring-systems/product-catalogues.html

Something I have learned is "no matter where a customer take there vehicle, at the end of the day you just have a person working on your vehicle, who do you want working on yours" I have examples of repairs in the AM as well as the OE that were excellent and some Not so steller. I like to try and add value to the customer on every repair.

My new quote should be... In the unlikely posibility that anyone might perceive me as being knowledgeable , it is not because of anything I tried to teach myself it's because all of the weird stuff I've seen. I also was very fortunate to have smart mentors.

What Zach said... Also when a line blows or even when bleeding the brakes one thing that can happen when the pedal goes past it's normal travel area is this can over-extend the master cylinder piston causing the seal to get scratched resulting in pressure loss inside the MC. This can be verified by blocking off the MC ports and seeing what happens to the pedal. Before I had the ability to ABS bleed vehicle I would just go out and do some ABS stops. If you also put new pads on I would recommend doing this when the pads are cool. We used to do this all the time on older E-Series vans, I can't remember if the NGS didn't do ABS bleeds or this method just worked better/faster. Try this when a customer complains about low pedal on a SD or Excursion.

Is it normal for those injectors to be different colored below the lower o-ring.

I have cleaned IAT2 on 04 6.0L for EGR flow codes...I thought for sure it was documented somewhere.

Had to put upper control arms and lower ball joints in a '00 Exploder, had to use oversized ball joints for the lowers. I guess it was rust jacking that made the hole in the lower control arm to big for the OE ball joints since the ball joints I took out looked to be original.

I ended up putting ball joints and all tie-rod ends on a '14 F-450. A couple of things I have learned this week & it's been a long week MCF 2224 and MCF 2223 are the exact same ball joints that are in the Spicer 708238 kit, I like the Spicer kit because it comes with a new snap ring & nuts. Now for the tie-rods.. if the vehicle has what Ford calls narrow suspension(Note this is not the same as narrow frame) the RF outer lower tie rod will be a MEOE 220 the LF outer will be a MEOE 217 these both can be identified by the thread size (34.5 mm). The RF upper tie rod will be a MEOE 216 & will have no grease zerk. If the vehicle has what Ford calls Extended Axle (Fatboy)the RF outer lower tie rod will be a MEOE 221 the LF outer will be a MEOE 218 this both can be identified by the thread size (39.2 mm). The RF upper tie rod will be a MEOE 215 & will have a grease zerk. Now for the drag link/center link the MDOE 44 & MDOE 45 are the same length(approx. 37" to joint center line) and will have grease zerks, the difference is the direction of the hole taper for the steering damper. On the MDOE 45 the nut for the damper will be on the opposite side as the nut where the drag link bolts to the pitman/sector shaft arm. On the MDOE 44 the nuts will be on the same side. Now for the shorter drag link/center link the MDOE 37(approx. 34 15/16" to joint center line) & MDOE 43 (approx. 34 5/16" to joint center line) are NOT the same length & will not have grease zerks, the is also a difference in the distance of the hole for the steering damper. The hole for the damper tapers the same direction. So on these two if the tie-rod looks like it's turned in too far or out too far from the adjusting sleeve it could have the wrong part installed. The MDOE 37 is actually listed for 2010 and older in FCA. Now for the front axle u-joints Spicer said the SPL55-3X(F81Z-3249-AA), no grease zerk and the SPL55-4X(5C3Z-3249-AA),greasable are the same joints(1480WJ Series) the difference is the 4X is cross drilled for the grease passages. The SPL70-4X(5C3Z-3249-BA) is a 1550/70WJ Series the distance between the snap rings/cap to cap is greater. If the vehicle has F-450 axle shafts it should take the bigger u-joints1550/70WJ. If vehicle has F-350 steering knuckle the seal installer tool for the F-450 will bottom out on the raised seal surface/inner part of the knuckle before it bottoms out on the outer part/where the wheel bearing sets. The picture is of a modified and made installer for the upper and lower OE style ball joints. The bigger one is just SS pipe that the machine shop turned out.

Sounds like a pigtail or harness would be nice. For I would like the Vin.

Try Mouser. What part is damaged? Vin number and picture of connector would be helpful. Is this an AMP style connector. Are there any numbers on the connector may be able to see with a magnifying glass.

With scrap steel prices this low I will no longer be able to fund my kid's college anymore based solely on paper clips that the parts guys put on my parts bags....I think they must have a semi-automatic stapler

So do I need to refund you any money? I am certain the Asian worked for me on Honda and Toyota.

I have sold and installed more of the front axle vacuum supply fittings (F81Z-4022-BA) then I care to count. I actually used to stock them since the dealer never does and most parts guys don't even know what I am talking about. So the other day I order one in and this is what I get I posted 2 pics because they ordered another after the first one was not correct...second time was not a charm . So they put in an email to Ford and Ford says I need a 9L8Z-4022-A which according to FCA fits a 6.0 and newer. For those who may not know my fitting should look like this http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/f81z4022ba. Well my parts guy gets ahold of me today and said he was talking to a dealer that had a 9L8Z-4022-A in stock. The conversation went something like this... The 9L8Z-4022-A looks the same as the F81Z-4022-BA but 9L8Z is on back order and if you order a F81Z it may be wrong. So Ford has a packaging or supplier issue with the F81Z. This time I am just going to get a brass fitting @ the machine shop and move on.