8WA Sman

After this mess I ordered the Ford & GM templates from Beydler I have not used them but I have at least 4 jobs to do. I feel the only thing that would have worked in the above case would have been the 17/64, plus I now have a guide to do 21/64 since I had to heli coil 3 holes. I can say the service and info I got from Beydler's so far has been second to none.

I would rather have the quality that DTS provides then the quantity that some sites have. I could not put a price on the knowledge I gained or the time and money that I have saved from being a member.

Last injector I did was #2 I just put the line on,pried up on it and the injector popped right out. To me pulling on the center of the injector makes the most sense.

According to my info I am not sure it has TPMS but I can find out for sure tomorrow.

I have replaced several 6.7L batteries for getting hot, I replace the battery insulator at the same time if needed. So far I have not found any caused by charging system problems.

Replacing a pinion seal on a Dana 80 , I was reminded why I wear safety glasses & sometimes also a face shield.

Is it this https://nicholsmanufacturingandweldingservices.com/shop?olsPage=products&page=1

If I am testing the connect function of the system I use anything with a magnet. eg old brake magnet,speaker or motor. If I am testing the output I use a motor from a PSD throttle body. I took a trailer plug and some duplex wire to test while driving if needed.

Mis-Diagnosed a noise on a '12 super duty...yeah pretty obvious what the problem was once I took the rear cover off.

So could you command the cluster lights on with the scan tool? You could also run the cluster self test with the odo reset button. I have used http://www.aaellc.com/vehiclelist.htm#Ford for cluster repairs. If it was mine I would check the solder joints on the board first.

Should be a Ford 6g alternator, look in the coffee table book or just look up a '03 6.0L should be wired the same.

I picked one of those up from Del City, I'm guessing more than 5 years ago & for some reason I don't ever use it.

If it does it with connector unhooked it has to be something in the clutch. Also check the fan mount pulley for play, wobble and noisy bearing.

My thought is where is the strain relief? Also last I checked not FoMoCo approved. I know mobile guys that use the ones from TE connectivity and claim to have no problems, I will say a top quality heat gun with temp control would be a must. I purchased the TE ones and they are ALL still un-used. Now my new heat gun I really like

Have not done a '11 Exploder but an inner tie rod end may be the same thread size. Get one the has a hex on it screw it into the hub bolt hole & use a hammer or air gun, something about applying force in the hub bolt area has worked about the best for me.

Great idea, I just picked 1 up over the weekend.

Sorry, I lost my access to FCA so the best I could come up with is 9S468...I guess you buy the clamps & get the vacuum solenoid & bracket for free And to think Ford made GSB G0000172 on how to remove & install those ear clamps...

Anybody test these with an identifier? Is this wiring issue the reason for SSM 46878? You could also remove the A/C clutch relay to check the circuits and get an amp capture or reading.

Air = Moisture

I got these a couple weeks ago for doing front shocks on E-Series vans. The 21 mm works for the top nut. https://atdtools.com/99652 What is everyone else using to remove the drivers side, I usually end up cutting them off.

Sorry no number on the tool but here is a link https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Disconnect-Loosening-Plier-Release/dp/B01J0P9YGG

They are 9" fuel hose line clip adapter disconnect release tool.I think I am going to really like them, especially on 6.7 Def filler hose @ the tank

I got these in today. Anyone care to guess what they are used for?

Must have been a "fluke"

http://www.chicagotribune.com/business/ct-ford-car-models-20180425-story.html I sense a rash of obsolete parts.