Mekanik

I haven't seen oil leak from a 6.0L headgasket, but after reading this thread I guess you can never say never. I would suggest clean oil and 3 bottles of dye that is pre-mixed with a couple quarts of oil. Then all you need is to give the thing a good road test. I have found that just idling sometimes dosen't cut it. I had a oil cooler leak externally, HP oil pump cover, turbo drain o rings, oil leaking from the exaust port at the cylinder head out of the manifold... At least it isn't leaking from the bedplate gasket. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

How many warranty headgaskets do you guys think this thing got before the ARP studs? I would love to see the VIN# to look up the warrant history. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hahaha.gif

I'm suprised that the truck started back up after stalling with a STC fitting as bad as your describing. I would have guessed that your losing sync. Maybe rust build up beetween the cam or crank sensor and the block or maybe a bad IPR. But, its fixed. Thats the important thing.

Wow. Thats really cool. Good luck. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

It didn't even occur to me that this could have something to do with your religious belief. That is some seriously funny shit. First the part of your co-worker doing a branch tube for nothing but practice and then this customer with a pile of parts on four wheels, and a huge bill just for teardown. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Speaking of warrant administrators, how is Tom P?

Is that superstition or obsessive compulsive disorder? I do goofy shit like that too. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif

+1 If I had to guess, I would say it probably needs a STC fitting. Possibly a dummy plug o ring, but those usally don't leak as bad as you are describing.

It is kind of scary to think about this. I'm lucky enough to be able to ride my bike to work. I'm sure more people will adapt to a different lifestyle where they use other forms of transportation and live closer to work, don't go on long road trips.

He has it apart right now. The #5 exaust pushrod is bent really bad. We can only assume that he missed the lifter. The crank was not in the proper position when the heads were installed. This is a step that I never really understood until now. I don't know if it has anything to do with the problem. I have always put the crank right where the book says before installing the heads but thats just me.

We have a f series with a 6.0L that had a routine headgasket replacement and is now missing on 3 cylinders, lots of white smoke. I'm not the tech working on this one, I'm just trying to help. It was missing on 1,5,6 (I think). A relative compression test showed cyl. 5 and 6 very low. The tech checked compression on cyl 6 and it was 300psi. A little low, but I think enough to fire the cylinder. I cranked the engine over by jumping the starter with the ignition off and I thought it sounded like it just had 1 cylinder without compression. He was going to check compression in cyl 5 right before I went home. If there was a valve stuck open I can see how that would affect other cylinders. I don't know how this could happen aside from carbon. The only thing I think could really go wrong is a pushrod not in the lifter properly, or a rocker that is not tightened down, but I can't see how that would affect other. cylinders. Any ideas?

Yeah, I thought it was about something else too, but not work boots or hockey. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

I have removed amout 15 bodies and never any problems. I have a body off a F250 right now that needs a bedplate reseal. One of these trucks was an Excursion. The first to suggest this to me was our FSE (at the time). That was around 1998. This is the point I was trying to make in a different post. Sometimes Ford tells us that something catastrophic will happen if you... (fill in the blank. ) I was at the International Plant in 2002 when the 6.0L was coming down the pipeline and got to see thier shop where they do testing and research. Can you guess how they work on those trucks in the International shop? One more thing I would like to ad, all of the vehicles that I reseal the bedplates on are meticilous and the owners are all very anal about thier trucks. If there was any nvh or a door didn't line up right I would have heard about it right away.

Thanks for all of the replies. Very good information. He hooked the osciliscope and looked at the ckp and cmp waveforms and the cmp looked really noisy and the voltage was much less than the one that Bruce posted. The tech finally fixed the truck by cleaning the block with a scoth-brite pad where the cmp is mounted to the block. I mentioned rust build up when he first started looking at this truck, but he swears that there was no rust. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif. The cmp waveform was much better after the truck was fixed and the voltage was a lot higher too.

Jim, It is a gamble. I agree. It's up to the customer, service director and writer to decide how to place the bet. I see where your coming from and I see your point. I think you are one of the best in the buisness and I totally respect you, but I don't agree with you about this. Lets say the fuel is drained and replaced with good diesel fuel and it runs great. I try to explain that it still needs $6000.00 worth of work. He will probably decline the work and take his truck. Lets say 5 years later, his truck still runs great. In the customer's eyes, I'm the one that tried to sell him $6000 worth of work that he didn't need. Evey time I have been in this situation or seen this situation in the shop it is usally the service manager or director that makes the final decision. It is important to state that there may have been damage done even though the engine runs good right now. Oh yeah, if it was an airplane it would need everything replaced.

I think it is a saftey precaution if the thing was shooting flames out of the exaust.

Your short fuel trim should be around +/- 6%. They will usally go a little positive and then a little negative. The closer to zero the better. This is the fuel correction that the pcm is doing to get the vehicle in fuel control. If it stuck at 10% then it is running too lean. it could be a vaccum leak, low fuel pressure, an air leak after the MAF sensor but before the throttle plate, ect... Your long fuel trim should usally be no higher than about 10-12%. Agian the closer to zero the better. If your short trims are +/-3% and your long is 10-12%, then at the moment it is working fine. I see two things that are common for when this problem is intermitent. The first is when the vehicle is started cold and the intake manifold is leaking vaccum (and sometimes coolant too) and then seals up after running for a couple minutes. The second is fuel pressure under load . You can have great pressure when idling, but if it drops below spec when you are accelerating you will get this problem. 1 other thing. Monitor your O2 sensors while driving. Go to WOT and your O2 sensors should go to at least .8v pretty quickly and stay there when at WOT. If your O2 voltage is less than .8v, then the engine is unning lean. I have no experience with Roush products by the way and I usally don't work on Mustangs. Good luck.

+1 /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif It works just as good as the OTC tool.

I had one too. Crank seal, and the pump gasket.

A while ago I had a 6.4l that had a PCM reprogram recall and a MIL lamp on with a EGT dtc. Like a good tech, I did the reprogram first thinking that maybe it would take care of the EGT trouble code.(yeah right) I found out that day (the hard way) that with the new calibration that the engine will not crank if there is a EGT trouble code. Infact it will not crank over for an entire hour after the code is cleared. Now you can trick the truck by pushing the truck with the key on to give is a VSS signal or by jumping the started solinoid. Something else that should have been announced...

It seems to me that we always hear how something really devastating will happen if we use the wrong fuel, oil, the wrong trans fluid, don't de-torque something in the proper sequence, don't mix the coolant at the proper mixture before we put it in the engine. I think we hear a lot of worst case scenarios. I think its at least worth it to drain, flush and fill with the proper fuel to see what happens. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif Were not talking about a couple bucks, were talking about $6.000.00

The ICP is reading .28v KOEO. When I said that it sounds like it has a biased ICP what I really mean is that is how it sounds. When I mentioned this to the tech he said, " I know, thats why I unplugged it. " So it was doing this with the ICP defaulted. That can be injector timing too by the way that it sounds. I checked the harness and it is rubbed through, but it is only the harness that goes back to either the trans or the transfer case and it was unplugged to see if the problem would go away with it unplugged. I asked about the FICM voltage pids and he says that they are all where they are supposed to be. Stuck open EGR... That kind of makes sense. I'll mention that in the morning. Bruce, I know what your thinking with the "good signal" statement. This guy has been using his "old school" osciliscope and I told him that I would like for him to make a recording with the CMP and crank sensor readings with IDS, so that we can compare to known good readings. What I meant by ICP voltage stays constant is that it isn't erratic and dosen't drop like it would if it had a biased sensor. As far as the sensors, there was no damage to the CMP or the crank sensor. Here is something wierd: The FICM sync reads sync, no sync, sync, no sync when cranking and without touching the throttle. If there are only 3 injectors plugged in, FICM sync is ok, but if 4 or more injectors are plugged in then the FICM sync gets erratic. All the powers and grounds for the FICM have been load tested and the communication wires from the PCM to the FICM have also been load tested. The FICM has been replaced and a known good PCM plugged in.

We have a 2005 F250 with a 6.0l that came in and it wouldn't run. I'm not the tech working on it, I'm just trying to help. The truck will start if you give it throttle when cranking, but it stalls when the RPMs go below 700RPM. It loses FICM sync and then stalls. The IPR, FICM and I think FICM harness have been replaced along with the CMP and crank sensors. The PCM was swapped with a known good vehicle. The wiring for the CMP has been overlayed and the tech looked at the crank signal with an osciliscope and says that it is a good signal. We got the thing running and I wanted to do a power balance test and see what happens when we turn off the injector enhancement, but it wouldn't let us go into power balance or enen control the RPM. I asked about rust build up beetween the CMP and crank sensors and the block, but there wasn't any. This truck sounds like it has a biased ICP and it is very quiet when it is running, but we disconnected the ICP and ICP voltage stays constant. I'm thinking something with the cam or crank signal wheels. Any help would be appriceated.

I don't mean anything by this, but I'm really suprised that you guys haven't heard of this. I mean, if Ford is willing to pay a bonus for us to spent a little extra time on a problem vehicle to make sure it is fixed then how are supposed to know about it? We could claim it on drtivability and on oil leaks. how many 6.0L drivability and oil leaks have you guys repaired in the last couple years?

My blacklight ias a Optimax and it ia about 8 1/2" long. I haven't had any luck with blacklights that hook up to the battery. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif Take good care of that old Rotunda light because they sure don't make them like they used to.