Brad Clayton

Well, this company is serious about getting your EGR cooler cores.

So what are you going to do after lunch?

I love technology and at the same time hate technology. But at the moment I love this: http://trackey.ford.com/trackey/

A little ditty I threw together for you viewing pleasure.

Well, I just checked the couple of old harnesses we have and they have all been robbed of the EGR connectors. Must be a popular item.

So what's the story? You need one of us to mail you a couple of those pigtails?

Quote: I am not liking is that removing the HPOP takes you through 4 or 5 sections of the WSM. Just annoying more than anything. Ditto on that. Friggin confusing as hell the first time around. I have never hyperlinked around so much in my life until diggin into a 6.7 shop manual.

No less than 2 hours here, to get started.

You should have smiled and gave them one of these..

An egr cooler that lets go real fast is a close runner up then.

Quote: Runs smooth and makes good power, just very very quiet at idle. Or you could just let it ride.

Yet another one today. This has got to be the worst yet. I had to fish all the pieces out with a pair of stork needle nose pliers.

Quote: Has any one seen damaged engine from fuel leak? One of the leading culprits of catastrophic engine failure on these. Make sure to check the charge air cooler out. It will be completely full of a oily/diesel fluid mixture if the engine shortened a few rods due to a fuel leak into the crankcase.

Biased ICP will allow the engine to run quite well......stuck EGR's and gas won't

Quiet 6.0ls are usually a sign of a biased ICP sensor.

Gotta love technology, one minute it's great, then the next it sucks, and....oh wait, it's great again.

2011 F-150 remote start installation This kit is a “plug and play” set up and all though it is not as easy as a Super-Duty, it’s still very straight forward. This is the kit and it only comes with one remote and no hood switch. Please verify that the truck is equipped with a factory hood switch before ordering this kit. I would suggest having a hood switch on the parts shelf along with extra remotes. The install requires a few panels to be removed including: right A-pillar trim to run the antenna wire, the glove box must be dropped down, and the right side dash cover where the defroster duct goes into the door panel. This truck had quite a bit of stuff attached to the windshield under the mirror. I opted to put the antenna here and did a test fit to ensure it did not interfere with the trim panel. The wiring gets run down to the dash. That takes care of the most difficult part of the whole install. This is the TPMS module and it is located behind the glove box and accessed through the side of the dash after removing the side defroster cover. The TPMS has two connector cavities and the new harness will piggy back the black connector and the gray cavity will be filled with the new remote start harness and secondary antenna module. “plug and play” This is the factory TPMS connector being plugged into the piggy back harness. This is the second antenna of the remote start module system and it goes right above the glove box opening. I bolt it in instead of using zip-ties. Red arrow shows the connector going to TPMS module and green arrow goes to the antenna glued to the windshield, very simple setup. I tie the module to the bracket above the heater box. View from the end of the dash. The only harness that has extra long wiring is the antenna on the windshield. The slack gets bundled up and tied out of the way. The installation is complete and now it’s time to enable the system using the IDS. After hitting the tick button on the above screen this screen will appear. Now go to the cluster and verify the vehicle accepted the enabling process. The system is pretty advanced and can automatically control the HVAC system if setup using the instrument cluster. That completes the install and the remote is all ready programmed and ready to go out of the box. Total install time=less than an hour.

Speaking of fuel filters.....it would seem 6.0 fuel filter stand pipes are not immune to this topic either.

E-box FICM's cannot be tested like F-series using pid data. To truly know what the voltages are will require removing the small cover on the ficm and checking the voltages on the 4 screws. The outer screws will have 48 volts and the inner screw will have batt voltage. DO NOT ALLOW YOUR METER LEAD TO TOUCH THE CASE IF YOU DECIDE TO CHECK THESE VOLTAGES. I bet you that the FICM is ok.

I just used a ratchet and it worked fine on the ones I have done. They seem to loosen up easier than 6.4's. Here is a PDF I made of cab removal on 11's 2011 Super Duty Cab Removal

I did a little tinkering with the docs.

Thats what I used to do the oldie abs thread last night, I love that program.

This guy seriously needs to find another shop to get his oil changed at. This is what I found on a 2008 6.4l. Who ever did the last oil change just stuffed that filter in there onto the already broken stand pipe and put the lid on which still contained broken parts from the old oil filter and "buttoned" it up!

Just a day at the office, thought I would share. It's in a PDF download format instead of putting the pics in here.