Brad Clayton

Quote: He's no fire fighter. He just likes to play with the siren... and his hose. Das 'cause I be SLAP HAPPY! Took me a while to find that damn photo, that I would break it out for the spring.

No need to take the cab off for left or right manifolds.

This truck (2011 F-250 with 6.7l) came to me with a complaint of the 4x4 not working in cold weather. It actually never worked no matter if it was cold or hot out, the customer just never uses 4x4 unless it snows. A quick verification reveals the transfer case is working correctly and the hubs work fine in manual mode. The problem lies in the vacuum portion or auto hub mode. OASIS reveals nothing special and there is no previous history. There are no codes in the system and visually everything looks ok. There is plenty of available vacuum for the system. The CVH solenoid has power to it….. …and the TCCM is supplying ground to the CVH solenoid when the 4x4 selection switch is shifted to 4x4. The solenoid is allowing plenty of vacuum to pass to the hubs. But there is very little vacuum on the measured point at the left hub. It is a straight shot down from the CVH solenoid to the left hub. I block off the right hub with a golf tee and recheck and now there is even less vacuum. Very strange….. The smoke machine is quite handy for finding vacuum leaks, but nothing is revealed when I load the vacuum harness on the axle with smoke. There are quite a few connection points (leak points) on the harness. I inspect the harness convolute for any abrasions or crushed spots and it looks ok. Starting to narrow things down a bit. Now I am getting somewhere.... .....the problem is obviously in that small section of line going to the right hub. I remove the hose and pull a manual vacuum on it and it holds. ??????????????? I hook it back up to the truck and it doesn’t hold. Now I am getting tickered. An extremely close inspection reveals this, the connection has split where it goes through the bracket. (left side shown, problem was on the right side). Closer look I replaced this and rechecked and all was well. A proper retest drive was performed to verify the fix and now I can start trying to grow hair on my head again to replace what was pulled out.

It takes a lot to get my attention when it comes to everyday life. I saw something today that made me almost come to a complete stop so I could fully comprehend what I was witnessing. First a preface; I love 18 wheelers and all that is trucking. I will chat up a truck driver anytime I can. One day I was stopped at a rest area and saw a lady smoking a cigarette outside of her truck. I started up a conversation and she commented that she was carrying paint in the 53 foot van trailer and it was always a pain because the rules state you can't smoke within a 100 feet of the truck. It seems that house paint is just a wee bit flammable. So every time she wanted to light up meant pulling over and going for a stroll. I was on my way to work today and coming up on a bulldog Mac with a can on the back (big rig hauling fuel) and all of a sudden a cigarette flies out of the drivers window of the truck. This fool is not only smoking in a rolling bomb but to put the damn thing out in an ashtray. I mean sure lets throw a lit choocher out the window and hope it lands on the side of the trailer where the fuel unloader hoses are. I don't know, maybe I am just a stickler for common sense.

Heard about cranks breaking over on the FMC boards.

You can remove the evap. case, or as I like to do, jack the front of the cab up about 4 or 5 inches and just use rubber bands to hold the head bolts up.

I do the heads in chassis when push comes to shove. I have yet to remove a modular engine to do cylinder heads, especially in a Super Duty, there is tons of room in there.

I used it about an hour ago, checkin tsbs on a chevy.

It's always a damn secret. Cetane where you at?

Dude, your ruffin it. I would probably give up running water over internet.

Not gonna lie to you guys, I voted for the bottom rung and if there was a lower rung I would have hit it up too. I guess the biggest question would be "why am I still there?". I can't really figure it out myself. I think part of it is to see if things can get any worse before the doors close. Then I can help put plywood on all the windows. I go in everyday hoping things will turn around for the positive. Until then I just take it one day at a time and do the best job I possibly can. I am really biding my time until my wife and I relocate to North Carolina. I have a grandbaby on the way (due in August) and I don't want to live 800 miles away.

http://bbbindustries.com/ Made it a clickable link. Here is a screen shot of an '86 F-350 fuel solenoids:

I got offered a job at the local Freightliner dealer. It seems they sell about a 100 Sprinters a year and they want a dedicated mechanic. I declined.

I wait until it blows the glow plug connectors out of the valve covers.

Is all good amigo, thank you for the input.

Quote: One thing you missed though, the 10 flex plate bolts need to be replaced as well which are the same as the front pulley bolts. Negative ghost rider, picture 15 on the parts list. Just finished up this engine Tuesday. Only took a week to get it done from key to key. I was quite happy with the turn around. Wish I could have gotten done 2 weeks earlier for ya!

I have been taking the bolts out of the brackets and parts of the valve covers and putting them right back in their spot, but it is time consuming. So I made a diagram of where they go. Here are the bolts where they should be. 1= M6 x 1.0 x 25 mm (13 mm head w/t captured washer) stud [1 req.] 2= M6 x 1.0 x 32 mm (8 mm head w/t captured washer) bolt [7 req.] 3= M8 x 1.25 x 41 mm (13 mm head) bolt [2 req.] 4= M6 x 1.0 x 22 mm (8 mm head w/t captured washer) bolt [2 req.] 5= M6 x 1.0 x 32 mm (10 mm head w/t captured washer) stud [1 req.] Right side. 3= M8 x 1.25 x 41 mm (13 mm head) bolt [2 req.] 6= M6 x 1.0 x 22 mm (8 mm head w/t captured washer) bolt [1 req.] 7= M6 x 1.0 x 14 mm (8 mm head) bolt [1 req.] 8= M6 x 1.0 x 58 mm (8 mm head w/t captured washer) bolt [4 req.] 9= M6 x 1.0 x 125 mm (8 mm head w/t captured washer) bolt [3 req.] Crankcase depression regulator gaskets. Fuel supply o-rings. Motor mount bolts, these are torque to yield. Now the engine is back in the chassis and I can finish it up with the turbo and intakes. Turbo bolts. Egr bypass gaskets. Egr supply pipe gaskets. That brings me to this point. Up ‘til now I have torqued all the engine fasteners to the proper torque. These bolts are the exception. The fasteners take a beating and even after cleaning and chasing threads they still have trouble seating the gaskets before the torque wrench reaches its setting. So they get a little extra umph. I also bend the gaskets flat at the edges that stick out (red arrow). Last but not least the upper intake. This is also in a complete PDF document on my computer and can be e-mailed to anyone who may want it.

My parts department shows a part number for an enhanced long block (BC3Z-6006-E). When this number was put through it reverted back to a regular long block with no gaskets. At the time of this article I could not get a long block with the gasket kit supplied. This is to help out with anyone who gets a long block and wonders what it has and does not have as of 3/28/2012. This is engine part number BC3Z-6006-F Rear view: it has a CKP sensor (red arrow) but no tone ring (yellow arrow). Left view: comes with oil cooler hoses (green arrows, and fuel injector thru seals and glow plugs (red arrows). Right view: comes with oil filter (red arrow) but no oil, and under the cover (green arrows) comes with egr cooler gaskets (BC3Z-9E464-C [2 ct.]). Front view: comes with front crank seal but no pulley (red arrow) and primary water pump. Equipped with CMP sensor (green arrow). I am not overly fond of the wiring retainers for the harness going to the CMP sensor. Top view: comes with HPFP bolts and exhaust manifold studs (red arrows) but no heat shield under the turbo (yellow circle). 1st step in assembling the long block, glue this thing to the block. Long block comes with a plug where this should go. You will need a 14 mm hex to remove the plug and 32 mm socket to swap the block heater over with this new o-ring. HPFP o-ring. Proper positioning for the HPFP gear installation. Vacuum pump gasket. Fuel injector seal kit, suffix A and B denotes which way the fuel line jumpers run. This engine comes with glow plugs. There is a serious shake up involving these glow plugs. The old one is on the bottom and the new style is on top. Please reference this article to help determine proper glow plug usage if needed. 6.7L glow plug pdf Exhaust hardware. The only thing not needed is the studs for the manifold to head as the engine is equipped with them already. These parts will obviously have to be doubled up to do both manifolds. CKP tone ring. I would suggest swapping this over as soon as the flywheel is removed from the old engine or at least to lay it on the flywheel so it can’t be forgotten. Flywheel bolts and crank pulley bolts. Coolant crossover tube next. Fuel rail supply tubes. Heater core supply tube o-ring. That brings me to this point.

6.7 Liter Long Block Parts List/Build This is the parts list for the needed parts to install a bare long block. Please open the file and save it to the computer being used so it can be printed off if needed to order parts. The list can then be compared to the body of the post with all the pics for visual reference of needed parts.

I shoot at it with my Red Ryder BB gun.

If your happy where your at, then you won't be happy back in the dealer environment. Things have gotten very strict with Ford and actually staying in your bay and repairing a vehicle is almost a thing of the past. Lots o paperwork, taking pictures and waiting for approvals and so on. I am making a living and putting food on the table, but it's stressful and way more complicated than I care for. If you are looking for a challenge then go for it.

They work good for warding off Jehovah Witnesses also!

Thanks for that, Keith. I have been trying to get this info to my parts guys for some time now.

Quote: unless you have gullible apprentices.... As a matter of fact, we have two to choose from, so I should be good for at least two more cab offs before they get wise.